Turbone

Qman said it could be the temp sensor. Have to get it home first, hint hint

Sorry about the resolution of the steering pic, not sure why its like that. The parts in question are #4 and 5. This is the bearing and bearing bushing. You will need a puller to get the wheel off, I'm not sure how hard it is to get the other parts out.

Just up and died on me around the corner from my house. It wouldnt restart unless I floored it and kept it there and didnt run well at all. I had the hood up and say the smoke coming out:eek: So I let it die and got out to look. I dont have any covers on the turbo and I can see the DP easily. It was red hot and about 10in past also. Dont know if it was like that before it died, doubtfull it was. So I'm thinking it was unburnt fuel in the cat, or else the cat is plugged. It was running ok until it died. It looks like I might get that NA block in sooner than I thought:rolleyes:

That pusher is going to have a Warn 6000 mounted to it shortly. Cant sacrifice just a degree or 2 for that.

We've been there, done that. It all comes down to reaching a limit. Its either money or hardware. If you are going to start altering the car to a point its no longer recognizable as a Subaru, you might as well start out with another brand. At some point in your build (Subaru) your going to have to say "Ok, thats good enough". (for now, anyways)

Well, one more for S&G's. I have 30in tires usung a EA81 PS R&P setup. I have had no problems so far. One thing you need to look out for if you use a EA81 PS is the idler pully. The bearing can go south on you if it gets garbage in it. There is actually a rubber cap that goes over the nut that helps seal the bearing. Hard to find, these are.

Yup, welcome to the club:clap: The shocks can be replaced with EA82 in the rear (or XT/XT6), the fronts will take Legacy struts. The bottom mounts need to be spread out a little to fit on the hub.

Ok, you've all probably been waiting for me to show mine:rolleyes: But someone else has to do the math, I dont have CAD (or math skills, for that matter)

And the gas for both rigs also. I have enough Soobs to not drive my Hatch as a DD thankfully. With those big tires it gets crappy gas mileage:-\ But I do drive it to and from where I go wheeling. Evans Crk is very close, Rieter is 1.5hrs away. I have never had any problems with the law going to either place, or even driving around my area. All I get is double takes and thumbs up:headbang:

What he said ^^ If you keep the 4spd, make sure you get a good clutch. I did this swap on my first Turbo Wagon and I went thru 2 clutches in 1 month.

Did you win the state lottery? Cant wait to see it run @ WCSS8:burnout:

As far as I know all Subaru's prior to 93 had unprogrammable ECU's. You might be able to piggy back it, but theres more $ and no guarentee it will work right. As for the items you just mentioned, most of those with major upgrades have AF meters, which can be bought fairly cheap. Some here have toasted thier motors because they lacked one and have now learned a important lesson. As for the injector pulse width and ignition advance, thats what a O-Scope is for. And yes, I have 2. Both were cheaper than a dyno run. Alot of us "Old Timers" here (I wont say names) have cut thier teeth on V8 HP and know instinctevly the amount of ponies that are coming out the engine and to the ground. And most likely have spent time on dyno's testing and improving. Some of us just dont need no stinkin dyno. Dyno's are for people who continuesly loose races and are trying to figure out why:cool:

How about "My Woodie":rolleyes:

Not according to the WA State Patrol. http://www1.leg.wa.gov/documents/wsr/1998/04/98-04-052.htm

Heres a diagram from the Factory Service Manual. http://home.earthlink.net/~spioworks/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/column.jpg I used a link because its a large file.

Have you tried test driving it around town at all? Sometimes after a few miles, any moisture will evaporate from the heat of the engine.

There is a bushing the the shaft goes through at the top. This will wear out and cause lots of movement. Very hard to replace, easier to replace whole steering colomn.

Maybe its because some of us have better things to do, or just dont have the time to deal with dyno'n something. Putting a car on a dyno isnt exactly cheap either. Life happens and it always doenst revolve around cars.

Doubt that water in the vac advance would not make it run. Seriously doubt you need a new disty. How old is the cap and rotor? Buy a can of air and spray it under the disty cover, might help to displace any water. But its mostly likely cap and rotor. Check wires, etc around the coil also.

That depends. This is pretty close to perfect (in my eyes, but I'm biased:D )

Tomorrow is supposed to be a nice warm day. Remove the cap and let it air out. Also check the spark plugs, might have soaked the wires and the area around them. Make sure everything is tight also (wiring).

The rear wing from a RX will fit with a little work.

That Hatch is mine now, and I would NEVER put those anchors on my car:mad: The way its setup now, I wouldnt be surprised if it can go more places than with those tracks.

Mike, you might be misunderstanding the situation. Only rigs that are driving up to the ORV parks are going to be ticketed. Once in the Park, your fine.

Yup. Sure miss that place:-\