Turbone

So you didnt swap tha actual gauges, but complete tanks? Maybe somehow that had something to do with it? Just one of those Soobie Quirks I quess:cornfuzz: Rob

I'm with Taprack on this one. Replace the fuel filter(s). Not sure if it has 2, one in front of the right rear, and the other by the windshield wiper motor. Need to get yourself a manual for sure. Oh, and welcome to the board and the world of Subaru. Rob

The digi and analog sending units are different. I would definately try another sending unit, if you can find one. Let me know, I think I may have one. Rob

I've got a list........and your all on it:madder: You'll find out come X-Mas:santa: Rob PS-Theres only one person from the board I'll never do biz with again. Most know who.

Thanks Caleb:D Also just got rid of the clutch fan on the GL-10, and installed the aux fan. The throttle reponce is much quicker now. Rob

To make things a little easier on you next time, throw a piece of plywood down under the car. Jacks roll alot easier then. I've been working on dirt and gravel for the last 14yrs. Rob

Your car wont run without it:eek: Sorry, couldnt resist. No, you dont need to change the disty, just cap/rotor/plug wires, and sparkplugs. That way you have all new parts and you will definately notice the difference. Rob

Most of the people on the board use NGK exclusively. Rob

You can change the cap/rotor/plugs wires if you wish, its a good idea. Its not neccessary to change the disty. Do you know when the car was last tuned up? You might want to change the sparkplugs too. If possible get a manual for your year, it will help with the firing order when you put the wires on the new cap. I think yours might be fuel injected, but I'm not positive. Rob

If your just talking about the coil its real simple. Depending on what engine you have, it could be on the left or right of the engine bay. Its a 7in round cylindrical piece with a big wire coming out the top(this goes to the disty) and 3 wires on the + post and 2 on the - post. Wrap a piece of tape around the wires to the + side of the coil. Remove all the wires from the coil, remove coil, install new coil. The wires that you taped together will go to the + post of the coil, the rest go to the - post. Now isnt that easy? Rob BTW, the board is here to help, not scoff.

How did it get bent? There may be more than a pushrod wrong with it. Rob

Real nice setup there Skip. I've torn apart one Alt. to find out how much of a PIA it would be to rework one. Not that hard really, if you have any soldering skills. I called a local auto elec place and the rectifier is $35 and the regulator is $25. A previous post about the same subject has some interesting prospects on the GM/Chevy alt's. Maybe a write-up on both (ie, upgrade on the American alt) would be a good addition to the USRM. Do you have any idea why our alt's get toasted so easily? My assumption is the high R's, maybe a bigger pulley would slow the alt down. Rob

I dont know about the 90's, but earleir Soobs have the VIN stamped on the firewall also. Rob

Is there a chance the lever could have broken off? There should be the end of a cable down there if so. The switch could be for a set of driving/fog lights. Rob

Hey Del, I'm selling my 84 Turbo Coupe. I'm in the process of repairing some minor rust and doing a tranny swap (keeping the 3AT 4XPB). If your interested let me know. Rob

X-member, and I dont know what the suspension is like on a pre 80's Soob, but you might consider changing over. Rob

Although I only met him briefly at WCSSIII, I found him very likeable. I share everyones thoughts about him also. Its a tragedy to be taken away so sensesly, and just when he was starting a family. We will be thinking of him and his family, please get us the addy for the Bank, John.

I have 2 questions. How did he do the rear handbrake? And how did he widen the wheel track? That is one pretty Brat. Rob

Had email correspondance with him 3/4 months ago and he said he would get my item (84 elec manual) out to me. It still hasnt arrived. I think Billy really screwed up on this. After saying he had a warehouse of parts he was getting and promising everyone lots of parts, he's only come through for a few people. I'm only out $20, but now any of the stuff he has or was going to get to others will never see the board. He's lost all credibility in my book and will not ever give him the chance to take my money again, or any one elses hopefully. I know he just got married, etc etc, but if your paid for something you promised, either deliver or give the $ back:madder: Rob

If the oil seal is leaking, you will find excessive carbon deposits on the tubine, like on a sparkplug. If the exhaust smoke is blue and you suspect the compressor side oil seal is leaking, check for excessive oil in the plenum. If its obvious that the turbocharger is blowing oil into the pipe, first check the PCV system and other possible engine causes before condemning the turbo.. Rob

Might help if you dropped the steering colum down, give you a little more room to remove it(little voice of exp:brow: ) Rob

I've heard of a couple people taking the exhaust off and putting a coat hanger down the inlet, then picking out the guts. Personally, this would take way to long. I used a die grinder and cut a good sized flap in it. Its still a PIA to get the stuff out, and welding it back together is touchy. The metal is 2 layers thick and different gauges to boot. Rob

And post a link so's we can all see it:D Rob

is the same. Locking the doors turns off the light. My parking brake light is the one that flickers. Rob

Andrew, I was thinking AT, not MT. Thats a real lamer too, I have the same tranny in my 86 GL-10 Turbo wagon:banghead: Rob