Turbone

I have started replacing any old water lines with silicone. They will last longer than the car (hopefully). The only place I could find it was at...........you guessed it, Napa. Rob

Well, I got the waterpump installed in mine and it cured the heating spike that I was experiancing. I hope your radiator fixes yours. Rob

Sound like he's in the Bakersfield area. Its pretty empty around there, hope someone from the LAX area can help. Rob

Well, here in the NW, its been snowing off and on for over a week. And today was the worst. It snowed a couple more inches(more in some places) and then started in with freezing rain. All the roads are ice rinks, and luckily most people decided to stay home today, including me. Rob

I'm having the same issue with my 86 turbo wagon. It will actually go to the red and hold it for a minute (with me holding my sphinkter tight), and then it will drop to normal op temp. I replaced the thermostat with no effect. Granted, its not OEM. I also had the anti-freeze smell and some leakage, and after some time and alot of looking, I found the source of the leak. It was/is the waterpump. The car has 126K, and I really didnt suspect it. But once I removed it and looked at it, it was really rusted. The car is waiting for warmer temps to install the WP, I removed it when the first storm hit, brrrrrr. Considering the mileage of your car, and the smell of anti-freeze, this could be your problem too. This unfortunatly is not a quick fix:( I have to remove the A/C, Alt, crank pulley and the timing belt covers, and both fans. Rob

They look similiar, but they arent the same. Rob

Just might have one for ya Odd. Give me a pm. Rob

Your getting 2 different answers, which are both correct. All glass in the EA81's are gasket type, EA82's are all glued in. I have removed both types. The EA81 glass will come out by taking a utility knife and going all the way through the gasket and then around the window. It may take a little muscle to pull the knife around, just take your time. Use 2 people to remove it when done. Now, the glued in type is a RPIA. I watched a pro do my last window removal which needed to go in another car. Piece of wire and gloves of course. Start at the top and work down the side, using quick back and forth sawing motion. This heats up the wire and helps it cut thru the glue. You need a long length to go thru the top and bottom at the same time cause you need to work it back and forth together. Takes about 45min. It helps to have most the trim removed from the inside, and in my case the dash was removed also. A couple of weeks ago I did a removal from a EA82 parts car I have. Used the utility knife on the sides and top (very carefully)and I used a propane torch to heat up a fillet knife for the bottom. Its about 2in top to bottom of glue. It was slow work, took me about 1.5hrs to get the glass out, but I didnt break it. Rob

I have an 86 GL-10 Turbo Wagon with 125K mi and digidash, havent had a problem yet. No reason to sell the car just for that. What electrical problems are you having? Rob

Hey Austin, who did it, and how much? Rob PS, Looks good:D

Geeze, where was I when this was posted? My 84 Turbo Coupe has about the same mileage as other EA81T's. Qman is also correct with the statement of the pedal on the right connected to fuel consumption. I had better MPG when I was on the freeway, around 24mpg. Rob

I'm with the Bard. It could be the fact that your not on a slick enough surface and your getting alternating grip. Also, what do you expect with studded tires on a metal bridge deck:eek: Rob

Hey Matt, did you see the post earlier this day about the 5spd conversion? Theres links and other info in it. Rob

Wasnt 87 the odd year? Where nothing cross-matched? I have the shift-up light, but I have never seen it light up. But there is a definate beep when your R's go to the redline. Where are the MPH numbers for the CC? I havent seen those yet. Rob

My 82 Hatchback was 20mi away from 300K when I was T-Boned. One of the saddest days of my life:( Rob

You need to get the thermostat housing tapped, should cure alot of problems. Still dont know when I'm going to make it up that way. I'm wanting to go to Reiter, but its still not decided. Rob

Thats the main reason alot of (ignorant) Subaru owners park em and forget em when they blow a HG. Most (ignorant) mechanics dont want to mess with it, so they qoute an outrageous price. If it wasnt for this situation, we wouldnt be finding cheap Soobs in peoples yards and fields. Rob

Old Soobs never die, they just get recycled (owners). Rob

Have fun, be safe. We'll hold the fort down for ya. I think we know Pauls weak spots now. Subarus and beer:-p Rob

Check the lower control arm ball joint. Rob

The FSM says its in the inst panel:rolleyes: It also sez its a pink 4 pole connector. I would look on the left of the steering colume, under the dash. A PIA to get to but thats where alot of the relays are. Rob

I've seen the one your talking about, but it was back in the late 80's or early 90's. Glad to hear its still around. This topic has been talked about so much, I'm sure theres something in the Archives, pics included. Rob

It also sounds like the turbo blew the oil seal, or line. This turbo is easy to find and shouldnt cost much second hand. The problem for you I think, is lack of tools and know-how. But seeing how your in the most Soob populated area around, maybe someone can give you a hand replacing it. (sorry, I cant help, I already have enough on my plate) Rob

It might be early morning, or mid. Not sure yet as I havent set a solid time to meet the other person. Once I know, I'll get a hold of you. Rob

Way to go Jerry! Let me know when you get it mounted, I want to get some pics. Rob