TurboSPFI

by the way, i'd suggest pulling the motor if you can, makes life realllllly easy.

Well I'll be damned, it was EASY! While I was in there, got new timing belts, cam seals, front main seal, HG's, intake manifold gaskets, exhaust gaskets, resealed oil pump with a new mickey mouse oring... by the way, if you change that mickey mouse oring in the oilpump, the TOD is drastically reduced! anyway, while it was torn apart it got a complete cleaning.. put it all back together and i ended up doubling my gas milage from before (blown headgaskets and intake manifold gaskets). Learned timing and the whole routine for removing and installing a disty too Anyway, just to let everyone know, the HG job really wasnt too difficult, we simply pulled the motor and started going to town. The job basically completed itself it was that easy! If anyone has questions about a HG job, timing or disty R&R, I can answer them!!! (sorry, got excited )

1 - Oh yeah, BYB is a good kit where the construction is concerned but they fail to tell you that you need to modify your center console, they fail to supply you with a skidplate spacer... but, if you break a block, he will replace them free of charge (atleast he did for me) 3 - if your going on the highway, it kinda sucks.. most people dont use 5th gear anymore.. noone ever mentioned that when i asked about lifting.. so expect that.. gear loss is pretty bad too.. 4 - all the time, with the bigger tires, i tear up CV's and hubs like none other, but, I abuse the hell out of my rig. If you just drive it on the pavement you'll be fine. One more thing, you have a loyale, its has a single range 4wd... your going to want to get rid of that if you intend on wheeling.

If they didnt work why would they sell them? BTW: If a balljoint snaps, that cotter pin wont help.

aftermarket 2 core all the way.

Fine, I'll stick with my original statement..

PCV valve is a PCV valve.

Yeah I think I'm about to give up as well.... Subarus just arent where the hot girls are at. I'm tired of an underpowered, peice of garbage, wannabe poser 4x4 rig ... there, I said it.

oops, yeah I meant to type that, calebz has the TMIC WRX IC.

awesome score!

izettas did only have 3 wheels and yes, steve urkel had one lol

Uh, I have 2.

L series wagon! lol

I was after the title of having the first BYB lifted subaru in my state because EVERYONE has a ford,chevy,dodge,toyota setup.

PM calebz.

Thats what I thought... but.... Tinsoldier is right, I looked at the wiring diagram and it appears he is correct.

That definately could be it, I sort of thought the window lock had something to do with it though because if the connection is broken there, the other 3 windows didnt work even with the master switch.

Well, hooked the switch back up, i have my windows back. Why? (i have my nose in the wiring diagram trying to figure it out, not sure if theres one for the actual switch yet though)

So I've been having troubles with my power windows on my 88 GL. I initially thought it was a window motor, and that ended up not being the culprit. Same with the switch, cleaned contact, ALOT better but still doing the same thing. ARRRGGHH *%#*@!!! That did it.. So I decided to swap in a manual window on the drivers door (as mentioned in a previous post, EVERY window except mine works with the switch!) Took everything out of the donor car to put into the 88, what I did have to do was switch out the rollers that hold the glass at the top of the window. My 88 had 4 rollers, 2 on each side.. The parts car had 2 rollers on the inside side of the car, but had two pad things on the outside. I had to use the rollers from the 88 to make the glass sit in there right. Well, enough babbling, when i got it all back together, the other 3 windows do not work now. Do I have to have the master switch from the drivers door that controls all the windows hooked up? I did remove this. I suppose it would be an easy answer if I just got up off my butt and went and plugged it in to see, but, if this is the problem, why would this switch be needed to complete a circuit?

I heard the cost for both Weber and SPFI is roughly the same?

interesting.

am i the only one that stared at that sentence for about 2 minutes before going, "thats not good!"

I'd skip the weber for SPFI.

CRC makes a can of stuff that you put into your oil before you change your oil that cleans that stuff out pretty well.

I seriously think you guys are going about this all wrong, why couldnt you just switch the gears in the transaxle out with a new set that could be custom made? I know gears can be made, why not just make a new 4lo gear? new gearset for 1-5th gears?