Subarutex

sounds like the parts person gave you the prices for the Head Gaskets, not the exhaust gaskets.

Austin, Dan has some brand new KYB GR2's for an outback... I think he's looking for around $100. JUst the fronts though.

I also had posted I found a site with schematics to make one of these. I bought all the parts, but not being electrically inclined, wasn't able to get it assembled. I believe Skip may have been working on this aswell, but I'm not sure what came of it. Here is the link to that information: http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/fcd/diy_fcd.htm I had to buy 10 of the IC's for that schematic, and still have them. I'll give someone knowledgable one for free, but I'll ask that they make me up one too

Unit retails at $125. Can be had on ebay a little bit cheaper: http://search.ebay.com/hks-fcd_W0QQfkrZ1QQfromZR8 I found that one for $80 on Nasioc. Car is currently running 11psi.

Bump so some people don't miss it.

OK... A lot of us have looked around high and low for a solution to the infamous "fuel cut" gremlin that plagues us that run higher than factory boost. Disclaimer: This was done on a modified engine (custom DP, WRX IC) you're results may vary. About a year and a half ago i bought an HKS FCD used off of Nasioc. I never got around to installing it. Saturday, Dan (danbob99) and I installed it on his beast of a wagon. We hooked it into the sensor signal wire coming off of the MAF. (the manual reccomends doing this under the dash, we opted to do it by the MAF itself for easier wiring incase of failure) The sensor signal wire is the White wire coming off pin 5. How to wire it: The FCD has 4 wires. (1)ign. power (2) ground (3)MAF signal input (4) MAF signal output. Cut the MAF sensor signal wire (the white one). Crimp the end comign from the MAF to the (3). Crimp the other end to (4). Find someplace to tap for ign. power and ground for the FCD. How to tune it: Set the FCD to 12 (it has 12 positions). Make sure car still runs, no CELs, etc... Go for a drive. You will find it still hits fuel cut. Set the FCD to 11, go for drive. You will find that it no longer hits fuel cut. We actually started at 9 (setting it any lower and the car had a really hard time idling). And turned it up till we hit fuel cut. Not the safest way to do it, thus use the instructions I gave above. The unit itself is the HKS Fuel Cut Defencer STD. See link here: http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=683. Other versions are available... we found the STD to be the one that worked for us. You'll notice on that link that WRX is supposed to use the STD on setting 10... The car now pulls just as hard as before... but with no fuel cut. It is quite amazing. Recap: HKS FCD Standard Version, Setting 11.

I've had this happen to me too. CEL's on long uphill boostings. I would think the car is telling you its knocking. But I dunno..

Bad***!!! I love it. And, as much as I love the EA82 cars... I do understand Zap on loving the EJ cars. More power, easier to maintain... and for the most part, it hasn't been done before, so you get to have fun reinventing the wheel all over again.

My alarm didn't come with remote start... though it has a wire to activate a remote start module... I've thought about doing it, I probally will sometime down the line.

Oops! Sorry Skip! I got the email, and it worked perfectly. After I got it hooked up to flash the parking lights, I decided I'd rather have it flash the turn signals. I found the wires coming out the steering column for the left and right circuit. I connected my one "light wire" coming from the alarm to the 2 wires, with diodes in place so that the circuits remained seperated. Worked out great. I ended up tapping the door signal wire over to the right of the glove box, the IGN+ and batt + i took off different sources from behind the fuse box. I put an aftermarket 2-wire door lock actuator into the drivers door (since activating that, works the rest of the power door locks) So now I have keyless entry too! The alarm also works with the alarm, by supplying the horn with a - to ground it. However, i found the ground it supplied to not be sufficient. After several different relay configurations, I was able to make it so that the alarm triggered the relay, which grounded the horn and made it honk. One honk, one light flash for arming and locking the car 2 honks and 3 flashes (the last staying on for 30 sec. or till the car is turned on) to disarm and unlock the car. Approx. 30 seconds after starting, the alarm autolocks the doors. As soon as the car is turned off it autounlocks the doors. The alarm has a bunch of options and settings you can turn on and off, i'm currently just running it in its "out of box" factory settings. I have yet to install and hook up the siren that accompanies the alarm, but i do know its damn loud.

Aren't you?

That goes to the return line. Its actually out of the bottom RRFPR, but i had to mount it at a slight angle to make sure it cleared the hood. The RRFPR is an SX one, and is just a 1:1.

I have a bit over $400 into the fuel system. That hose and fittings aren't cheap. Especially when you are in too much of a hurry to order off the net, and have to rely on one of the local hot rod shops. I need to make mine Equal length, it is not. I believe then, it will be the ultimate On a side note... putting the fittings on the end of the braided line is hard as hell. I was never able to master it, I had to recruit a friend that just seemed to have the knack for it. And, the link does work. Occasionally my hosting goes down for maintenance.

Corky... I'll take two. One in catch me red, and one in you can't see me grey. Oh... I'd like mine to run upon delivery

2 and 4 are XT6 injectors. *edit* ugh i dunno, after looking at my FSM, it seems xt6 injectors just don't have the hose. 2 and 4 do look like more modern EJ injectors.

I thought it was also known that the XT6 and the EA82T were different. Kevin, you say so yourself in this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=5810&page=2&pp=10&highlight=xt6+injector The xt6 is a bit more advanced from the EA series engines. The manifold is one step closer to the EJ style, as are the fuel injectors. I believe because the injectors are a physical different style, it is NOT safe to assume that the EA82 MPFI NA injectors are rated the same as XT6 injectors. It then would also be a mistake to presume that EA82T injectors flow more than XT6 injectors.

HKS is like the cheapest downpipe you can buy aftermarket for a WRX. Thats not very Ballin' dude. Nice Find... I'm holding out for used divorced wastegate downpipe.

You are correct Vanislru... that is up until the ecu goes into a a no feedback loop reading. If I understand how our ecu operates.... once the boost light comes on, it goes into a non feedback loop. Thus relying on the preloaded maps in the ECU to determine how much fuel it needs. This is where larger injectors will help compensate for the "more effecient" turbo. For instance, I run a TD04 on my RX. It has different flow, and different effencies compared to a stock turbo. I'm also running higher fuel pressure (42psi). Off boost the ECU seems to be able to dial back the fuel (because its in a feedback loop) to keep the AFR close to what i was seeing before the turbo and fuel mod. To further help the ECU i also have an SAFC which i use to help trim back the fuel in off boost conditions. At times, the idle is wavy... idle up, idle down, idle up, idle down (i attribute this to my externally vented BOV and the higher than stock fuel pressure) Once on boost (and the ecu in the no feedback mode) the higher fuel pressure has helped me keep my AFR's close to what they were before the turbo and fuel mods.

What boost controller are you running? I'm guessing your boost spikes are because of a sticky wastegate or perhaps a ************ty boost controller. I would never run with a boost controller in but not adjusted... just seems like that is asking for trouble, i'd bypass it and see if the spikes go away. Fuel pressure is an intergral part to tuning an engine. By upping the pressure you are going to increase the flow up to a point. I don't think anyone knows what that point is on our injectors, it could be that Kevin is close to it. Or, he may not be. I am not arguing that bigger, higher flowing injectors are not the right way to do this, because they are. See this link for several handy calculators: http://www.megasquirt.info/manual/minj.htm#size I think everyone here agrees that 180cc/min is what our stock injectors are (or close to). For the sake of this calculation, we need to convert that to lbs/hr. There is a handy dandy calc. for that on the above link. 180cc/min gives us 17.1lbs/hr of flow. Our systems run about 36psi of fuel pressure I believe. On the link above there is a calculator to calculate the expected flow of upping the fuel pressure. Lets do that. 17.1lbs/hr at 36psi at 44 psi it gives us 18.9lbs/hr of flow 48psi = 19.7lbs/hr 56psi = 21.3lbs/hr Using the cc/min to lbs/hr converter tells us that 21.3lbs/hr is 224cc/min. That is a pretty big increase in theoretical fuel flow. There is a point at which an injector will not flow anymore, it just isn't possible, but none of us here know where these injectors hit that line. Drivability could be affected by the bigger injectors... but also see he's running a different turbo. We have no idea what it flows compared to stock (hell, we don't even know what that flows!) so maybe the high fuel psi and the different turbo make up for eachother. Which then would mean upping the fuel pressure is working, and he's not causing any damage. His AFR's are good enough, I think this was a good step. I would go even farther to say that if he cleaned up his boost and ran say... a steady 9-10psi his AFR's would still be in check.

Who is the authority??? Bah. Yes, the front cables are retained with the brackets from the front that you bolt to the back of the belly pan. The cables that come off the calipers i retained to the the subframe.

Replied

Bump it up to the top....

I'm running custom fuel system. See pics here: http://www.subarutex.com/gallery/Fuel-System-Pics I made the fuel rails myself. If i was to do it again, i wouldn't use NPT fittings... hard to seal, ended up epoxying mine in. Also, I need to make my setup more equal length. I have found that most systems in the performance world are equal length.

I would recommend a BYB lift made by PK Davis of www.ozified.com. I installed one in my wagon... the first real automotive work I ever did, went pretty smoothly.

Backing plate, cables and caliper from a 1979-1981 Toyota Supra. You need to cut up the backing plate and drill a new hole. One hole matches up, another needs to just be elongated. This worked fine for XT6 rotors, stock will require more mods to backing plate because of the smaller rotor diameter. Honestly, I would have done it the 200sx way if I would have known. I'm not entirely happy with what I have. The front stock ebrake cables I looped to the back along the driveline tunnel. At the back of the belly pan I had to bolt the ebrake mounts off the front calipers. These have to be bolted good. From there to the back I just connected with some wire and some wire clamps. Again, when I do it again, i'm going to use a xt6 backing plate an a 200sx calipers. Mainly because the pads for the Supra are kinda $$, but also they are a pain to install. The 200sx calipers will yeild a much cleaner install, worth the extra price I would think.