Subarutex

It was not a machinist that honed it, it was the Subaru Technician that did. It was just with one of the handheld deals. And, it is fine. Engine is already together about to go back in...

Use ABS, not PVC. The black pipe will hold upto Heat and pressure better.

Ok... So I measured the resistance. 2.5-2.7 ohms on the stock ones... 11.4-11.8 on the DSM's. This was out of car. I guess I will be running the stockers to begin with. Please outline how to test with the "resistor block"... would this upp the OHM's of the factory injectors... thus meaning if I removed it and the stock injectors and ran with the DSM's it would be fine?

Actually, i'm trying to determine if the DSM injectors I have fitted (which are high impedance) can be driven by the stock system without damage. I will not be upgrading to Megasquirt yet... but I have an SAFC to help tune for the larger injectors.

Ok... are the injectors Peak and Hold? Or Saturated? Peak and Hold is supposed to be High Impedance Saturated is supposed to be Low Impedance

87+ hot wire cars... do they have high or low impedance injectors?

My cylinders were not bored, they were honed. It does have a slight crosshatch to it, just not as perfect as when I bought the block new. The block has 150 miles on it since its last full rebuild. The hone that is on is functional, however it is not the good 45 degree crosshatch. It seems I can't use the balls with the pistons in, so i'll just continue to follow directions given by my Tech and use some fine grit sandpaper by hand.

I just got my block back from being re-ringed, and having 2 pistons replaced. It has been rehoned, but lacks the pretty crosshatch i've seen on other blocks. The engine assembler (Subaru Tech 20+ yrs) said I could use some light sandpaper to put a slight crosshatch on it. So... how should I go about doing this? Looking for cheap and easy. Time consuming is ok.

Yes... You can paint over it, but it requires some extra steps. Research here: www.por15.com After etching, cleaning, and por15ing (the best process to use) you can use this product: http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=239 This is a intermediary primer. So you would put this over the por15, and then paint your desired paint over it. However, the POR-15 company has some colors of their own, and i would certainly trust just about anything from them. It seems ideally using all their product would be the best way to go.

EJ20DETT?? Sounds more like nissan engine than a subaru one. I believe the correct engine designation is EJ20H. Subaru does not use the T for turbo in their engine designations like a lot of other manufactures do.

That looks pretty clean! It is hard keeping these older cars clean, its even harder when they are offroaders. This is mine all cleaned up... I'll try and find a pic of the engine bay... that is truly the clean part i'm proud of. Unfortunately after spending weeks and weeks cleaning for various shows, after they were done I went offroading last weekend. So its dirty again!!! oi

I remember monitoring the timing on Syphon's old Legacy SS. At cruise it seemed to pull timing to the extreme... 60+ degrees easy.

Monica and I will be there.

Borla is a really nice sounding muffler. On my wagon I have 2.5" from the catback to a FlowPro muffler (flowmaster clone) it sounds awesome.

This place is out here in WA.. but their prices seem really reasonable. Check it out to get an idea of what it may cost. http://www.onecryo.com/onecryo/motorspt-pricing.htm $400 for a complete 4 cyl. engine doesn't seem unreasonable at all.

COme home NOAH!!!

Yorick, clear your PMs so I can send you a response.

I guess I had a brain fart last night... Do you have the Carter-Weber (i believe it is a single barrel) or a Weber 32/36 (which is a 2 barrel) The Weber 32/36 is the carb in which i was refering to. It is an aftermarket carb. If you have the Carter-Weber, which it sounds like you may, upgrade to a Weber 32/36. All my comments last night were in reference to that carb, not the Carter-Weber. I would agree that the Carter-Weber is poo and should be buried.

If not a weber, what are you going to go with??? I mean no offense, but the weber is pretty much a staple of performance modifications for these engines. And, there are still parts out there. Ebay is great... also check bow wow autoparts (they have several locations throughout the Puget Sound area) Now, I've had my fair share of problems w/ my weber on my '86 wagon. However, by talking to informed people I was able to trouble shoot all my problems and now have an excellent dependable carb. Not to mention it hauls balls now. The engine overhaul should be fairly easy as far as just doing head gaskets and seals. It becomes more complex when you split the block... something that i have yet to tackle. Doing gaskets could be a fairly easy weekend project. I urge you to give the weber some more time... try rebuilding it, and reading up on some of the threads on jettings and such here on the board. I would also reccommend a good slightly larger y-pipe back exhaust system be put on. With those 2 things you will have a noticable increase in power. If you go as far as splitting the block, new pistons, rings, etc... look into putting a new cam from Delta Cams in Tacoma in. Also perhaps look at finding some EA61 pistons. These will raise your compression ratio, and help squeeze some more ponies out of the brat.

Friday to Sunday. 1 or 2 cars. We are taking the ferry over, and shooting down HWY 3. Its a shorter trip for us that way

Tin Soldier.. The street is exactly where an LSD is warranted. The limited slip allows both wheels to turn at different rates (when going around corners) but the clutches will lock when given gas, thus locking the wheels together I also would see no problem running a welded diff on the street. You just have to be careful and have your wits about you. Also, if you are like me you won't break anything, but if you are like most people it seems you will.

Driving is all relative Sure feels fast pushing it about the yard! Especially when I make the turbo noises

Caleb is a copy cat. I am the original!!

I see boost about 1.5k usually. By 3k the cams open up (delta cams) and the turbo is at full boost (7psi) Thats with the TD04, stock wrx downpipe with 2.25 out the back, muffler'd

Some owner in the past had a stereo in it, with one of those 1" adapters. All that is left now is that adapter, and I continually fight to get all the way into first gear because my gear shift hits it. While test fitting my Pioneer deck into it, i could see it just wouldn't work, unless i was willing to just mash the face of my deck continually with the shifter.