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what made you think it needed more freon? You said it was very cold? Does it have a site glass? The system has a "trinary" switch, this switch will tun the system off if the pressure is too low or too high Which is probably the case. As sugged, get a set of gauges for the type refridgerant you are using. Note when checking, a probe style thermometer is also your friend. Leave all the doors open when doing this so the expansion valve continues cooling the evap. coils and the system must be oprerating. Be carefull we are taking realitively high pressures. Hope this helps.

okay summer only op right? Flush the anitifreeze out of the cooling system real good. fill with pure H20. disconnect the heater hoses feed the fresh water from the hose into the heater core output hose Run the hose that feeds the heater core to the shower stall may not be real hot but will not be freezin' Simaliar situ. I used to spend weeks on Assateque Island NSS I would fill a large tractor inner tube with H20. Sat it high on the truck roof or camper before filling -->solar heat and gravity was my friend.

That is the old "Langston Subaru" bought our first Forester off of them when they were on 286 I wonder where they went, they dealt in a ton of HiPo stuff. Got my second turbo Legacy out of their lot when they mis-guessed a bad turbo for the PO. Those copper 0-ring washers must fool a lot of them. ;^)

Thanks Mary, next year maybe we can make WBM the ECSS but I still say Pittsburg is in KS Pittsburgh is east coast.

Dear Mr. CSi Please approach this with a bit more of a definitive question. Such as: I have a 19XX Brat turbo and would like to...?? or I am looking at a Brat and would like to ??? I do not mean to be rude but... Your question is a slight bit ambiguous and is very hard to answer.

"I've never been further west than Pittsburg." Mary please, some of us live near PittsburgH Have a grand time folks!!! As Connie is striving for... someday we will have an ECSS1

Hey Dea-- I think? He's asking you? Verbage is a bit unclear? We both need an update on Mr. Dude try this for starters Today, 07:28 PM GeneralDisorder vbmenu_register("postmenu_623714", true); I'm an rump roast! Join Date: Nov 2002 City: Portland State: Oregon Age: 27 Posts: 8,467 iTrader: (3) Vehicles: 85 Brat 84 Wagon 86 Sedan Photos Re: injector on loyales Quote: Originally Posted by dude_4_sale i have read on a few other threads of ppl putting larger weber throttle bodies on the loyales. anyone got any info or links? Weber makes no such beast, and you have not read this. You are mixing up carbs and fuel injection - they are two totally different, and incompatible animals. A Weber will no more work on your loyale's fuel injection than a ball point pen would work for cutting hair. GD

You are looking at the VSS#2 Here is a picture of what might be bad Here is a post that explains in much detail what you may be describing VSS#2 -would be a good idea to tell the folks what car this is

Sorry mate but all of these sympts point at HG First - Make sure there is no staining anywhere from a leak. You could try a new rad cap - cheap try a new OEM thermostat -please don't got to NAPA ect. But the most likely scenario is the blown head gasket is pushing combustion gas into the coolant system forming air pockets. A coolant system leak down test will usually show leakage. You could bleed /burp the air out of the system making sure there is coolant in the overflow. Drive the car for a few miles and look in the overflow for bubbles. Good luck, hope you make it to the cookout. Nipper will be there - let him have a look see.

Dan the push button operation is a very simple affair. In front of the wiper motor are two solenoids. Picture - Thanks to Gloyale These direct the vacuum signal to the proper side of the vacuum motor (basicly a diaphram that pushes/pulls the cable to engage the rear drive). The vacuum comes from the storage canister located behind the pass side strut tower. The button on the shifter is just a SPDT switch (see switch types for an explaination) Each position of the switch operates one of the solenoids. Thus pulling the cable connected to the vacuum motor or pushing the cable. If you need more help on the wiring please ask The other wiring you will need it the "4WD" indicator light on the dash. Hope this helps.

Thanks Jerry, sure hope he reads and listens.

As support to what Benebob says. The "traps" may exist but with out the salt or other steel eating chems we'd be fine. Look at the cars from Wash. OR ect. Same body, same traps - no salt - makes me wanna cry.

Good to know it's nothing unhealthy. I am puzzeled by this statement?.... Well some say it's all fun and games until it really "goes kaboom!" which it will if you continue this practice. You can try reversing the vehicle to relieve the bind. Please get four matched tires (less than 1/4" difference in circumference) and do not drive on non-slippery ground. A dual range is a terrible thing to waste.

very well stated Daeron he may be thinking of using one of these electric charger What say yea to the?? ;^)

oh yea, glad you found it you're welcome :^(

snow worries mate, I have trouble reading even at noon 0 clock ;^)

Nipper, I think this is the creature you seek?? Hope this helps.

to rverdoold: I think I read "93 awd impreza wagon" I am not positive about the early Imps but.. This may involve the use of a press or what they call "the hub tamer" Kind of a press that mounts on the hub/ trailing arm. I would get some form of manual-- for torque values if nothing else.

Thanks for clearin' it up Brad. Sorry to read the outcome. I don't think the codes will tell your valves are bent. Might get a misfire code?? You may want someone?? to remove the T-belt covers and verify the valve timing. A comp check might be a good idea also. The EJ22 swap is now a for real deal. Thats what my OB got when the idler went south. Thanks again and here's good on ya and your cousin.

There must be more to the story than I'm reading. Lots of stuff repl but no mention of the idlers, that is the mileage my 97 had when they went south. The car in the link is a 96 I did not read where the 2.2 swap took place? Was there an EJ25 in the 96 when you opted for the 4EAT? "Help needed: 98 Outback w/95 2.2 swap" Color me corn-fused

In support of your statement The EJ22 in question --> a 96 Is not interference therefore it is unlikely for it to loose comp in the entire lump even if the belt breaks.

quoteth das Nipper "It's unheard of to get zero compression from all 4 cylinders."

Sorry to argue with the Nipper but my EJ25 mind you had zero in all four pots when this took out the some valves in both both cyl in both heads

If you are real interested in this try http://www.gotpropane.com/ And to add to GD's excellent remarks here is a quote from their website. Note: we do not sell kits for late model cars and trucks.(87 and up)Please do not call us about these vehicles as it is not legal or cost effective to do these vehicles.(computer controlled)

Aye Keyrumba!! If there ever was a car needing/wanting to be converted to SPFI ---> Uownit!! Find an SPFI car in a boneyard and do it. The 4wd 87 EA82 was the last year for the carby-tooted model. What those poor engineers had to do to get it to pass USDM emissions -- well it is a wonder they run at all. There is a carb gruru who works for his own company I believe inconjunction with with CCR - http://www.ccrengines.com/ His name is Kerry, (Rubuilders was the name -but it's closed?) he solved this same riddle for me. Seems there is a vacuum diode (check valve) in the line to the thermo furnace or?? Been to long.... Good luck and l l l v Hey I own a TR3 the rest of this belongs in "Off Topic" shame on me. My " '57 small mouth 3" is THE first car I ever owned and I still have it!! I purchased it in 1965 - yea I'm an old fart. I also have many other "Bloke-mobiles" I have a 68 "B" the engine and tranny are in in dry storage, thinking --someday I'll.... Need a couple FrogEyes?? (aka BugEyes) not mine but thought you might like this how about a 948 A-series? Or a ribcase?? I'll go sit in the corner now.