Skip

you're most welcome glad it helped some

Nicky do as you like but the red with white is the high beam ground It may cause some problems. It may look like it has voltage until you hit the high beams at that point it goes to ground good luck, Skip -- over and out

I would like to see where the trailer harness was conected I am sure it was a while ago but do you remember the "stop lamp" light coming on when towing the trailer and hitting the brakes. you could run an auxillery wire from the brake pedal switch to the connector you found behind the rear panel. I am assuming you can tell which wire was the brake light wire since you tested it for power. Be safer than driving with no brake lights The "stop light checker" is also in direct line with the brake lights, have you located it? FSM shows the wire from the switch is green turning to green with black at a ten wire connector This wire runs to the stop lamp checker behind the drivers side tail lamp Hope this helps As for knowing you car by you signature, I am sorry I do not have my"signatures turned on to save some minor amount of bandwith. Doubt I could tell it was an 83 anyway

Capt'n you are sure you got the hot feed to the headlamps? It is the only one with full battery voltage when the key is on. FSM says it's a Red with Blue stripe on the driver's side

Nipper, thanks for the links and the background info I was wrong it must be "slipping" like you said I read skipping not slipping my apologies

You're most welcome, as for my help... put this under the blind squirrel and the nut catagory I would attempt a proper repair as something else could be knackered. The close by ig switched hot wire? The main feed for the head lights is always hot when the ig switch is on.

very nice idea but 30 GW's for a dome light? maybe if.........

might want to add a simple heat shield for the DOJ boot also simple "U" of 1/2" steel - rad hosed onto the pipe with a 4" x 6" piece of sheet metal fastened to the other leg of the "U" A bell mouth or better - divorced pipe for the waste gate down pipe would also help

for a test yes for a semi permanant solution they should be to an ignition switched hot

Mary Please just keep in mind there are 20-20 Rustorations I am infamous for them 20 feet or 20 MPH they look real good - up close ...well

Sorry Cap'tn Both wires in the "T" get a positive battery voltage from the ignition switch. Try that and see if we get "charged"

Sanda Welcome aboard the good ship USMB and thanks for the props Happy and Ultimately Satisfying New Year to you and yours.

Sorry Nip, I beg to differ You are talking about a totally different situation If you need proof I will provide it. I own one of these with less than 40 k on it. I have researched it extensively. I have been driving clutch propelled cars since..... well a long time normally getting over 100 kmi on a clutch you want to differ please use the instructions I provide in my original post then come back and post your proof

Wheel bearing on cars are fitted at each axle in sets of two inner and outer. It does happen where one set is going bad and will roll fine straight ahead (load being shared by both sets) but when the load is transferred to the worn set during a turn the bearing will rear it's ugly head and howl good luck there are many other things that can cause "humming" like rotors rubbing on brake pads due to semi siezed calipers

Clutch "judder" or shudder is a common problem in that year. It is normally confined to starting out in first gear though. The fix is a new clutch and p.plate If you try http://www.nasioc.com/ Search clutch problem or shudder you will find a wealth of info

Thanks all six lamps are wired to my high beam switch (4 aux driving lamps (100 w each) both high beams (Syvainia Xtra visions)) My high beam switch is a foot operated control ( from a Ford truck) I am also "reminded" when I don't dim them but don't come at me with yours on I use the flash to pass and it looks light a bank of flash bulbs going off or so I'm told The dash extension is a unit I made to hold more gizmos. Good luck with your Roo

G affirmative if it were a voltage problem you would be burning out more lamps than just this one

try finding a lamp made by OSRAM (Sylvainia) or Convert to white LEDs (costly but should last forever)

Do you mean "ViVio" http://vivioman.stormloader.com/whatis.html

Mary, You and your Brats = ;^) It looks a lot like the one Moosens sold me only better. Take the spare tire out and see if you find this like I did. Yes that is the pass. side floor mat you see. I like Hatchmonster's advice Fix enough to make it safe and use it for the winter beater.

Try This "well guys went too the local dealer to look for parts drove in and low and behold the salesmen stare at me, all 12 of them went to parts depo to see if they had a campertop. came back (ed: to the showroom) every one ask the history of it (ed: Brat) and the phrase "how much!" customers had the nerve to ask the sales men "do have any brats in stock" I just laughed went on home" no offense ment

hatchsub, 1) The secondary throttle plate vacuum supply on a HiCrappy two barrel is internal. Could you possibly be referring to the choke pull off ? Here is a scan from the 83 FSM 2) The vacuum advance to the distributor can be connected to either one of the "ported vacuum " fittings on the base of the carb. Plug the other. You will be bypassing a thermo control. switch Scan Please to save bandwith please email me if you need other scans

Trau, I had a 78 CVCC with those lights, when I saw the pict I thought they looked familiar nice choice but they still look out of place in my eye. Such a nice bull guard, put a set of Hellas in the loop. The high beam you are seeing at night are the outer lamps in high beam mode. Wire these via a relay to come on with the high beams and see what you are missing.

Captain, I got out the 83 FSM, it says you should have an internally regulated alternator Hitachi model LR155-15C might check the number against yours. It is acting like a non internal regulator alternator without it's external regulator. or The charge lamp provides the excite voltage for the internal IC voltage regulator. If the lamp is burned out or missing the regulator will not excite the field winding an thus the alternator will not charge. This excite circuit travels through fuse # 4 in the fuse box might check it also. Note: I have seen these type alternators with the excite terminal (small terminal on back of alt) directly connected to an ignition switched hot wire. Hope this helps.

fbh On the HH, as I said previously, the adjustment is trial and error You need to turn the nuts down a few more mm on the shaft and try it again. Remember sometimes it takes a bit of a pump on the brake pedal after the clutch is depressed., to set the HH on hold. On the mystery gizmo, my bet is that what we are looking at is the modern version of the anti afterburn valve fitted to some of our carbed cars. Here is a scan from a FSM As Northwet says the fuel filter is just acting as an air filter for the lower input My bet is the external lines from the top to the middle on the old model shown, are now internal. . On the "to Skip": Nice lights - we got Hellas but they were round on the cars on this side We also have a few other parts please see http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49329&highlight=Willy To view a few Good luck, email me (click on my name and select - send email) if you have questions