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FB, the system uses 2" pipe that fits well over the stock head pipes. The twin "Y" connectors are positioned at the point where a coating of paint stopped burning off the original non-cat Y pipe. (old hot rodders trick for finding where the balance tube should go) Twin semi baffled cans give it a mild rumble some say sounds like a small V8. The carb is a Weber 32/36, with this combo she has improved torque across the rev range. Just yesterday she pulled a 1000 pound golf cart on a five hundred pound trailer with no problem what so ever.

NB You're wlecome. Glad I could help Thank you for the props, nice of you to post such

Thanks Josh, that link works fine opened it with MS Word 2000 is quite the dowload, I must learn to compress these BTW but first link stil a no go

Thanks Josh, my sever is having problems with yours at this time. I do appreciated your help (as always) and willingness to host the article. I hope we can help people wanting to do this modification.

After several 80+ days of doing my 100 mile commute I want to report IT's neet having kewl feet

As Josh states this is not a simple job. I thought removing the radio would allow access to the wire I needed -- NOT The plug was out of reach so I removed the screws for the top of the panel cover / gauge cluster tilted it away from the dash and found the proper connector. It runs into the control panel from the rear, the brown with white wire was obvious. I stripped a small section and soldered a wire to it. Note: if this wire is cut and disconnected from the panel the AC can then be controlled only via the switch (i.e. not in the AC, AC MAX, defrost position) AC MAX will still function as the recycle position though. I wired a toggle switch from this wire to a ground point. The switch is mounted in the blank to the right of the st. column. I also wired a small indicator light connected to the compressor clutch. This allows me to monitor the cycling and act an indicator that the switch is in the AC ON position. It's nice having AC in the foot wells. BiLevel is best. If anyone else is interested in this mod. I can provide pictures via email. Thanks again for all the replies.

Leave the electrical connection to the WGS connected and the ECU will not get it's panties in a bunch. There are three (3) lines to the WGS 1) from the output side of the turbo 2) to the waste gate mounted beside the turbo 3) breather to the MAF to turbo pipe Put #1 on the input to the MBC, put #2 to the output of the MBC plug #3 Here is an electric boost control devise I used for some time.

Congrats on the square hat, wear it proudly I need the hood release cable If the interior is brown, the plastic behind the door opening handles would be nice if nice

These symptoms Then it started loping and smoking, and then died. I restarted it and had to keep my foot on the gas pedal to keep it running, it smoked the whole time. sound more like the carb is dumping, due normally to a float needle and seat problem. Peer down the carb throat with a flashlight while it is idling.... is gas kind of pouring onto the throttle plate? Were the plugs black when you pulled them to regap them?

well no car type, no engine series, no year, no fuel system info WAG ---your ignition amplifier is going south check the spark

another tip is a fresh oil change if the oil is old and has been tainted with raw gasoline during cold weather starts it can release the gas vapors which will be recycled into the intake manifold via the PCV system I have also heard of people removing the air filter element so the mixture is not made artificially rich but a semi clogged element. The EJ22 is a pretty clean burner as Josh says and if the FI ECU is not tossing it's cookies like Ed refered to, there should be no problems but Every little bit helps

What was the petrol gauge reading at the time?

E Y is correct think of two boxers facing each other first one (pass side head) throws two punches leading with his right other counters obviously leading with his left into the open court hope this helps

Sure thing Josh, will do and thanks for the time and concern

IF you were beefin' about a part that needed replacement more frequently or the decimal place was shifted one place to the right then You might have a point. Do a search if you will for PVC problems read what many owners have said then make an intelligent decision and by some miracle in a can with your saving

would be kinda kewl to know what year model the car is but my guess is that it does not have or could use a new OEM PCV valve

Josh, and TC thanks for the replies. I looked into my 1990 FSM and it appears if we take the Brown with White wire in location #6 of the J18 connector at the control unit to ground, the system will get the proper signal to activate. This wire controls the AC relay which in turn tells the ECU to activate the correct circuits. Now to find connector J18. Josh you know behind the dash in these better than any one. Can we reach this multiwire connector from maybe the radio opening? (after removing the radio)

94 Legacy: I would like to have my AC work on "bi level" or any other position I choose. My HVAC control panel has a button blank (looks like one anyhow) that now has a "Legacy" blank in it. Maybe some models had an AC button there like most other manuf. do. Does anyone know of a way to wire a switch to control the on/off function of the AC? I can and do this easily on all my L series Subes. I know it should run in the defrost position but I would like to cool my piggies. Thanks for any help - hot foot

GBianchi is right on all I can say is it sounds (and looks) like he sure lives up (down?) to his screen name

Mick, As you have so many times in the past, I thought I would do a drawing of the accel pump to explain it's working. As with any piston pump there has to be intake and exhaust (output) valves. When checking the accel pump operation these and there respective seats must be examined for proper sealing. With this and Todd explanation I hope it helps some.

From the texture and the look I believe they slaughtered some naugas and then used their hides to make them. Where to get some?? Sorry, I'd imagine finding your local heard of naugas would be as easy as finding some.

small "booties" that cover the rear seat belt retractors keeps the crud out of the mechanism. Mary is the only other person that I know that have heard of or seen them. Bet Todd has though. I can get you a picture of mine if you like. I checked my original paper work that I got with my 78. The decals were a dealer installed option costing a whooping 53 dollars (installed), hey back then that was a lot of brewskies

right you are Zefy good stuff here is my 78 w/optional "Brat" decals

real nice, But IMHO it could use the "BRAT" B pillar decals