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Jimpo, HTi said "green connectors" not green wires The "story" is the ignition timing on your car is controlled by the ECU (Electronic or Emission Control Unit) When you want to set the static timing or base ignition timing you have to tell the ECU you are doing so. Plugging these connectors together tells the ECU this. If you are not party to this info, your statement "timing is on the mark" is a bit bogus. Allot of surging can be caused by fuel octane rating. The ECU is sensitive to the knock sensor and will retard or "pull" timing advance until it does not sense knocking. Try another brand of high test. If the car accelerates normally when the turbo is showing boost I would have to rule out the fuel filter scenario as this is when the most fuel is needed. Have you ever seen the CEL (Check Engine Light) on?

Thanks for all the replies folks. The matching color will be gold The color the real Brat was when new. Connie, the coup on the coupe out does this by a long shot, and you paid about half what I did The MooseNS of man deserves kudos for treating you righteous. I was going to send you a personal "WaHoo!" on the new baby. Sorry Snow and so I don't have possession yet Will let yins know about the view an such. Paul- if there is such a thing as a center console? or a dash with out a crack? Was going to break the news tonight but lost the nerve--- better than loosing ..... is Jane Bobbit in the house??

Lefty, the responses will be more accurate if you would be kind enough to tell us what model of Subaru "this car" is. If it is an EA81(1800 cc) it will be cast into the block on the pass side front. Getting my first EA71 (1600 cc) soon so I know very little about them.

My new bedroom?? She does have her rear seats

the interior needs cleaned up but it sure has potential I believe

Thanks Doc, I have an 88 RX also but I have been wanting a Gen I for quite some time. Here are a few more shots. I hope the paint will come back with a bit of ????

Well guys and ghouls I have joined the ranks of the Gen I Brat owners. I plan on making a matching pair with the Brat go-cart I own. She is a 78 and has 60 kmi. I am the third owner. She was pasted down from father, who bought it new, to son to me. Son is in his 40's. Very little rust and she has led a good garaged life. I may get spanked by the pretty one when she finds out..... good thing it has a cap, I need to sleep in her!!

remember it's metric 6mm - width 1.0 thread pitch 20 mm - long You could use McBrats idea and take one from your tire support with you all of the 10mm "wrench size" bolts/nuts on the vehicle have the same ISO thread pitch Hope this is what you were looking for

Lebn, One part of your post bothers me you said and I quote " Rotated everything 180 and yep, both pointing up with the lines lined up." If you have both cams with their circles pointing up this is not correct, one should point up the other point down or 180 deg from the other. Hope this helps and congrats on the work in progress, welcome to THE Subaru board.

Believe who you want and whom ever numbers you want but it is a simple matter of the physics of the situation. Cooler air is more dense and thus contains more 02 & the combustion temps and detonation are a direct function. I believe you have a rad fan on that side. Many after market intake units now come with a partition to keep the engine heat "at bay" so to speak. My filter is located in inner fender area. For your IC to do it's job effectively it must have air flow through the coils. I have a rad fan mounted over mine to assist this flow.

man that sucks hot air - soto speak even when you add a scoop you are going to need something to assist the air flow through it and breathin' the output from the rad fan ain't too kewl, if you catch my drift

I was wondering just the other day if you still had that PM'd ya scoops R-US

Look in the front "Y" pipe cat if there is an 02 sensor the you should have an ECU or no 02 no ECU

Vanish, you are correct, thank you for pointing out my error I will add, I thought the the "skin effect " was a function of frequency only, not voltage. I would like to know if the transmission lines you mention are operating at something other than 60 hertz.

Rangeru SubaRanger I have a line on a 98 Ranger 4x4 LT that the guy ran the engine totally out of oil in. (oil line to dash gauge broke and he wasn't watching his gauges) I also have a rebuilt EA82T with the complete wiring harness. I work in the aluminum fabrication field. I also have very little cash but a lot of ambition. It is hard to get to see this truck and before I commit to anything I would like to know the frame rail spacing. The hot set up is a 5L conversion but I want a Subaranger. Does anyone have a early Ranger that could do a crude frame rail measurement?

First and for most, get a hold of some of the guys from the Subaru Alliance. They are very helpful and in you general local. PM or email Jim (86subaru) he'll get the ball rolling for you. They may be able to do a team up on the car with you or find you something that works with in your budjet. Good luck with what ever you decide.

You are welcome and welcome to the board. On the solenoid. You must use a multimeter set on ohms It should read about 35 ohms

didn't see a fuel filter on the list? That would be the first thing I would change The coolant sensor has remote possibilities (may just want the connections cleaned ) For it's location: Look on the upper rad hose connector on the block This is called a "goose neck", it houses the thermostat. In the housing there will be two coolant sensors the one with wires permanently attached is the one for the fuel injection system (the one with the spade connection is for the dash gauge.) The other problem is the EGR solenoid valve, the rubber line on the EGR valve will lead you to it. Very common for these to go open circuit, bone yard can yield results as the stealer cost is outrageous. Some Honda's use them also and seem better built, just have to swap the connector.

glad you found the problem and you are welcome _______________________________ CQ 15 W3RTT

No horn relay on an 88, 85 Sub is correct the horn button provides the ground. Most likely they are toast, they can be adjusted though if they make some noise. To gain access to them the easiest way I have found is to remove the head lamp assembly Four 10 mm nuts behind the core support and one phillips head screw in front about parking light They will be on the outside almost behind the bumper end caps. Most folk tap the wiring and add aux horns under the hood. Hope this helps

Please use a few minutes of your life and read over the links I posted

My check mark goes beside the ASV reed valves not closing thus exhaust gas is being introduced into the housing the soot could be carbon from the exhaust Please see Karin's post on backfiring for some good links to fixing this. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=33253

Yikes!!! quote "Ok you fine folks, I posted an hour ago and not one of you had the time to reply.." Well now, shame on us. Will any other member join me in this BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRaaaTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT to this gentleman that finds us derilict as we did not answer in his time frame.

Russ - no problem at all, if I do not learn something every day- I consider the day a waste - please see my signature cd, Russ is correct you do not have an 02 sensor nor do you have a ECU (Emission Control Unit) a.k.a. engine computer You are at the mercy of the Subaru emission engineers, who tried desperately to make your engine pass US emissions without the aid of any electronic control (thermo vacuum devices had to "make due") There is one light at the end of this tunnel that is not an on coming train. His name is Kerry, he works inconjunction with CCR Inc. If you really want to fix this, email him - he is a true guru when it comes to this carb and it anomalies. See this link for Rubuilders http://www.ccrengines.com/roobuilders/ Hope this helps

Karin Pat did an exclenent job of giving you a sure fire way of finding them here is a post about my episode http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2569&page=1&pp=20&highlight=reed+valves Here is a link to the Ultimate Subaru repair manual. (found at the top of the page) article by Shawn http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=72 And here is one for reading about some "other" ways to fix or test if it is the problem http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=18913&highlight=backfire Hope this helps