88rxsedan

is that going to give me enough room to change out the flywheel? that sounds easier, since i can just unbolt my down pipe.

Well, it snowed here, finally. (south texas) played with the car in the snow, it was GREAT! but i broke an axle... No biggie, did the RWD conversion and drive with the DIFF LOCK on and its great. the rear LSD makes the fun factor of the car in the dry move from a 6 to a 10... just thought i would throw that out there! but my clutch has been "going" for a while,(slippin under boost) and its now time to change. Im going to replace with the xt6 clutch setup, since i have all the parts! So after work im going to change the clutch. Im thinking, since the front axles are gone, wouldnt it be easier to pull the tranny than the motor to swap the clutch? or should i pull the motor live ive done a few times before?

the ea81 may be "tougher" but theres nothing wrong with an ea82's durability.. take my 88 rx, 160k and still runs like new

WHAT? oh man..

yeah, the boost control aspect works fine, its just the third line.. i know it bleeds boost at high altitude for the proper boost level, i just didnt know where it goes.. i imagine it hooks up to the one that hanging by the intake, but the hoses are different sizes.. guess the adapter fell out? ill get pics this afternoon if this isnt correct

and every ea81 equipped car i see around here is either blocking traffic, or stuck behind a UPS truck because he dosent have the power to pass it.. thats another reason they changed.. the ea81 in stock and even bolt on modded form is fairly weak..

well.. there are PLENTY of high mileage stock head gasketed ea82's ive owned 2 with over 200k, and i had a freind with a TURBO at 250k.. he sold it, next owner popped the gasket with TOO MUCH BOOST..

ohc is better than pushrod for mid range torque and high rpm power, and MORE POWER POTENTIAL because of flow rates, and the ability to run larger cam profiles because of less valvtrain drag. pushrod is better for LOW rpm torque, mid range power.. you dont wanna go flinging your valvetrain around at 7k for long with your big tall cam and weak springs.. they both have their advantages, but for efficiancy, even with the belt.. ohc is the way to go

i traded my car bla bla bla then i got it back.. any way, Im VERY versed in subarus electronics, and i know how it ALL works ect, but theres theese lines i CANNOT remember how they go.. i know this is usless without pics, but i can do that shorty.. any of you guys know where the third line from the boost solenoid go? does it connect to the line that t-s into the intake?

not any more than any other car ive driven.. and they are tuff in the woods, places i wouldnt want to take a legacy

yes

told ya (one hell of a guess huh?)

looks like the sensor for the "lamp" light if your car has that

sounds like you locked up the front diff.. any strange noises before this? the like to lock up when theres no oil in em

svx > all ...

thank you

4th.. because i have to know

i never seen it stop leaks before, but now that i think about it, every car ive put it in never leaks a drop... hmm.. i have noticed that it takes a while for this stuff to start working, you just cant put one can in and expect maricles, use every 3000 miles youll notice..

i wouldnt use it in a turbo, too much heat.. they use zinc.. theroeticly (sp?) it would help. but in reality, zinc would prolly coke up the turbo.. I just dont know.. ill try it on my car, the turbos on its way out anyhow (smokes just a little bit at high boost when shifting gears)

i believe in it, ive tested compression before and after, broght the #3 on my nissan up 12 lbs.. much closer to the others

i never used it in my scooby, oil additives = bad on turbo motors, they work off of heat, and you dont want all that **** caking up the turbo, but on a n/a motor, its the best and ONLY additive i use.. more compression, less oil consumption... My 300z had 140k on it, and its doing good.. the best one was my 90 escort gt, bought it with 95k, it used about a half quart between changes.. i added the restore, and ragged it to 180k, changed the oil every 3k, and added it again... i beleive thats the only thing that held that car together.. and yes, it quit using oil!.

niiiiccceee.. what song is that anyway?

if i do that, i cant hear my turbo WHOOOOSH PSSSSHHH

its normal for it to tap when its cold.. some cars do, some dont.. if it goes away and dosent return after 15 seconds or so MAX.. its normal, mine does it sometimes, other times it dosent.. and yes, its all sealed up WITH a new pump