I am going to pull the engine out of my '85 wagon tomorow. I am reading up in my chilton manual, and i would read my haynes book too, but i can't find it.

 

It has a weber swap so that takes out a bunch of the unnecessary crap and I am planning on using my neighbors tractor that has a bucket to take it out

 

Are there any tips i should know so i don't screw up?

you need a jack under the front of the tranny to lift the engine up high enough to clear the mounts (this is after you unbolt the mounts and before you unbolt the bell housing)

It's fairly straightforward. The hardest part is separating the engine and trans. Best way that I've found, is to lift the engine with your hoist, and once the engine mounts are clear of the crossmember, put a jack under the front of the transmission to hold it at that angle. Then unbolt the 2 and start yanking. Feel free to pull on the motor quite a bit, wiggle it back and forth a bit, play with the height of your hoist, to get just the right angle. But DON'T pry on the bellhousing. as tempting as it might be....it'll only make things worse (I've heard of people breaking chunks out of the bellhousing ).

 

Beyond that, just remember to quadruple check that you have everything disconnected, and keep an eye on it as you start lifting.

 

Remember, the definition of an engine hoist: "A large, usually hydraulic, piece of equipment that tests the tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect"

My engine hoist is about the same size as the car I'll try to get some pictures

There's an alternative to putting a jack under the front of the transmission. If you cut a 2x4 to length, and lay it across the shock towers, you can sling the tranny with some rope. That's what I did when I did my EJ swap.

 

The engine is quite light, by the way. When I pulled the EA engine out, I rigged two pulleys from the garage roof. I did the lifting, and then a friend belayed (yes like for climbing) while I got another handful of rope.

 

Also, I'm sure the book says to do so, but do pull out the radiator. It'll give you a lot more breathing room.

I ran into a roadblock.

 

the neighbor broke his tractor, and i cant for the life of me undo the transmission mounting bolts.

 

And just for the heck of it i ran a compression test cause the engine was running like poo and three cylinders read 150 psi and the other one read 180 psi

Edited September 20, 200916 yr by Markus56

I guess i will pipe in having done my motor swap yesterday. I searched for a week for a free alternative to renting a motor hoist and eventually broke down and rented one from a place called Ace Rents. They had one that breaks down and fit in the back of my loyale! It worked perfect and was only 22 bucks for a day. Now im exhausted though cause i spent all day hurrying doing the swap so i could get it back on time. Good Luck!

How are you supposed to reach the tranny mounting bolts that are on the bottom of the engine?!?

 

I can't fit my breaker bar in on the passenger side cause the axle is in the way and on the driver side the distributor and all the other crap is in the way

HAHA! PB blaster and iron determination win again!

The engine is free, just need to lift it out

 

Then i can build my lift kit!

Edited September 21, 200916 yr by Markus56

If you know someone wiht a good back, two people can lift the engine out.

I've lifted one of those before to put it on a motor dolly and it was sketchy with three people

^^whatever... lol

I lifted a 2.5 by myself to put it in the passenger floor board (seat pulled of course.) these engines are LIGHT!

 

(I am a stout guy though.) (translation: lard rump roast)

Yeah those things are light. When I was young(and stupid) I could lift them by myself.

 

If you have to use a tractor don't try using the hydraulics, they move too fast and you really need to align things just right so as to not bend the clutch. Best thing if you have to use a tractor bucket is to put it up then use a block and tackle, chain-hoist or a fenceing wire strainer of you have those over there.

a come-a-long over a truss in the shed will do

Me and another guy (two different guys in fact) recently moved an EJ22 with all acc. into and out of a pickup bed. No problem at all.

 

GD

I too have removed a subie engine (ea82) with the help of someone else. Not exactly "Light" but was able to lift it high enough to clear the radiator and put into a wagon.

me and a buddy of mine lifted my ea82 out with a pice of rope and a roofrack it was awesome!

Long time ago, I helped a friend drop his EA18 with a short chain and a 2X4. More recently, I've done both an EJ25 and an EA18 in two seperate vehicles using a Harbor Freight cable hoist mounted to the ceiling in the garage(Love how the Subie hoods open so far!).

 

Rather than jacking the front of the transaxle, I've had great success standing on the front bumper while gently pulling the engine forward. Although, putting them back in hasn't been as easy.

hi can someone help me im doing a engine swap and have taken all nuts off bell housing and engine mounts and engine seems to be stuck , i have a good 20mm gap and it wont come out any furthur ,its like the clutch wont let it come out i was thinking of removing the bolts inside the gap where the clutch plate attaches to the engine itself to get it out but , i dont know my subaru manual never said anything about undoing bolts inbetween the gearbox and engine

I usually unbolt the front bar off the frame (4 bolts) and drop the whole thing (tranny and all) and slide it out from under the car.

no, the clutch shouldn't cause any hangup (the disc needs to be able to slide on the input shaft to work properly....so they don't really get seized on there).

 

just have to make sure everything is disconnected. the pitch stopper (bar from the engine to firewall), throttle cable, fuel lines, electrical, vacuum, etc. etc.

I usually unbolt the front bar off the frame (4 bolts) and drop the whole thing (tranny and all) and slide it out from under the car.

 

sounds like a Vee Dub fan that can't leave old habits behind. LOL

its a pull-clutch, should i still be able to just pull it out??

Dude. I made this thread a year ago.

 

Yes, as long as all the bell housing and cross member bolts have been removed, the engine should pop right out.