I can't even tap the roll pin out of the DOJ side (Closest to the Diff) maybe with more Deepcreep and some heat I can pound it out.

 

Had the same problem on a front pin on my old 83 wagon. Got it loose by putting a drill bit to it. Ground out about 1/2 an inch and then it came loose. Might be worth a shot.

Edited March 11, 201214 yr by AdventureSubaru

Had the same problem on a front pin on my old 83 wagon. Got it loose by putting a drill bit to it. Ground out about 1/2 and inch and then it came loose. Might be worth a shot.

 

 

I had the same idea, these are harded steal, but it might loosen it up. Perhaps I'll try this tomorrow since its gonna be 60!

What is with this grill. Looks like a factory emblem delete grill? 1983 Brat:

 

I am not looking forward to the wheel bearing(s) I can't even tap the roll pin out of the DOJ side (Closest to the Diff) maybe with more Deepcreep and some heat I can pound it out.

 

I will have to pound the entire axle out through the bearing and back in, as I did on the XT6 as I am not going to be able to serparate the Axle from the stub in the knuckle.

 

take the whole diff out with the axles and set the works on the ground. If you get the pin out, the cups will probably be seized to the spline. Use plenty 'blaster and heat with a propane torch, and a 3 lb hammer, whack, rotate, whack, etc.

 

You can take the axle off the inner doj to be easier to whack at. use a hammer with a wedge end.

The grill on that Brat is just like any other factory ea81 grill. You just unscrew the emblem from the back side.

The grill on that Brat is just like any other factory ea81 grill. You just unscrew the emblem from the back side.

 

Did not know they unscrewed. Thought it was molded.

 

Fox, helpful info!

Removed the Dealer installed A/C.

 

 

 

More space.

 

 

Welded in a patch. 1 of many needed.

 

 

I think this radiator will make it another 70,000!

 

 

 

Little bit of wax brought back the shine (Needs a better waxing though)

 

Front crash bar

 

Tom, as you weld in patches make sure to seal around the welds with body seam sealer (if you haven't already, you're a smart guy). As for sound deadening, a lot of the old Chrysler guys like Fat Mat, works as well as Dynamat but not as expensive.

Tom, as you weld in patches make sure to seal around the welds with body seam sealer (if you haven't already, you're a smart guy). As for sound deadening, a lot of the old Chrysler guys like Fat Mat, works as well as Dynamat but not as expensive.

 

Where do you buy a Seam sealer product? I will probably just seal it up with bed liner if I put it heavy enough.

 

Good call on Fat mat, I'll look into that.

pretty sure you know, but bedliner over rust of any sort, is like adding water to mold.

You need to use rust neutralizer rust inhibitor to kill it, then you coat it, but I am positive you already know this huge important detail.

 

bedliner is okay but it is porous and when you put it over any rusty part, the rust is spreading due to not air sealed off. bedliner is not what i would use.

even if your bedliner is non porous, you need to use a rust inhibitor etcher to kill it, or you are in trouble in a few years short time when the cancer spreads. Kill your cancer.

What is with this grill. Looks like a factory emblem delete grill? 1983 Brat:

 

 

idk but dope ************ing wheels

Brent, I know about removing the rust before coating it. There is no point on painting over rust, I usually grid it away or use a converter if needed.

Brent, I know about removing the rust before coating it. There is no point on painting over rust, I usually grid it away or use a converter if needed.

 

ok. it is the internet so not sure everybody is aware good you know that.

I made that mistake about 5 yrs ago on my Loyale, I just covered up the rust with Bondo, as I though that would keep water from getting to it. 2 years later the bondo started pulling away revealing more rust.

 

Needless to say I did it proper last year. RUST is the Enemy! We must eradicate the enemy! Napalm!

most of this latter post is something the west coasters can ignore. they would have no need or use for pb-blaster, sandblasting, rust etcher inhibitor, undercoating etc.

 

with the overspray i see on the crashbar and radiator it is as if the front has seen some paintwork prior.

Edited March 12, 201214 yr by bheinen74

I guess we under estimate the Westcoast and their Rust. This is a 1983 Brat out in the PNW and the Rockers are rotted away along with the hood lip. Most of this must have been sitting rust, sitting in a field or something.

 

no, i doubt that car was registered to west coast its' entire time.

 

that car was moved to the west from somewhere.

no, i doubt that car was registered to west coast its' entire time.

 

that car was moved to the west from somewhere.

 

That is possible, I forgot what the Sale ad said, if anything. Its too bad this Brat wasn't taken care of.

I get all my body work and painting supplies at Monark Auto in Burlington, quite a trip for you. I'm sure there is a similar store in Waukesha.

idk but dope ************ing wheels

 

the emblem is screwed in from behind. you can delete it yourself.

Jon, Yeah there are a few Auto body supply shops around Waukesha, I might even go down to NCS in West Allis since I've been there more then once for the Loyale.

 

Rob, Lol, I just looked at my grill, indeed it is removable! Subaru was thinking ahead for the Tuners of the '00s?

So here is an updated, comeplete list of everything I need to do to get this car up and going, and up to my standard of a DD. These are not in any order.

 

List:

1. Clean, Seal and Install rust free Fuel Tank (Once I get it)

2. Replace pretty much all Fuel and Brake lines under the car

3. Attack the Underside surface rust with a Wire wheel and/or Grinding Disc

4. Weld in needed floor patches

5. Coat underside of the chassis Hard Bedliner, Epoxy Paint and Rubberized Undercoating.

6. Coat inside of floor pan with Hard Bedliner

7. Cut out Old Rockers and Replace with Rust free versions, Coat backing of Panels with Hard Bedliner (Once I get them)

8. Drop Rear Trailing Arm tube, Clean up, Seal up, Reinstall

9. Replace Bad Rear Wheel Bearing

10. Replace Bed Front Axle

11. Replace Radiator, Hoses and Thermostat

12. Replace All Brakes and Wheel Cylinders

13. Change All Fuilds, Oil, Diffs, Coolant

14. Reinstall my Interior

15. Replace Gate Window Seal

16. Replace/Redesign Rotted Front Valance/Rad Support

17. Replace Rear Dampers

18. Crank up the tension in the rear and adjust my front springs

19. Replace Every and All Vac lines

20. Clean Engine Bay and Motor

21. Drive it!

Edited March 13, 201214 yr by TheLoyale

Jon, Yeah there are a few Auto body supply shops around Waukesha, I might even go down to NCS in West Allis since I've been there more then once for the Loyale.

 

If yu go there again, ask if they would put por-15 in aerosol cans, i that is possible. Maybe the shortie aerosol cans. The idea being use a can, but the whole thing, but without the rest of the quart drying out. However many cans you have is how many times you can use it.

If yu go there again, ask if they would put por-15 in aerosol cans, i that is possible. Maybe the shortie aerosol cans. The idea being use a can, but the whole thing, but without the rest of the quart drying out. However many cans you have is how many times you can use it.

 

I like this idea, as $30 for a Pt. is costly if it does dry out.

 

Although, I think I read somewhere on POR15s site that they could not manufacture the coating in an Aerosol version as the thinners used for Aerosol style paints would destroy the Coatings ability to adhere correctly due to chemical structure breakdown.

 

And POR-15 is to thick to be used in a spray gun, whether its a Gravity fee or not.

 

All I can say is this BLOWS!

dont bother with Por-15. Way too much fuss.

 

Check out Monstaliner's chassis paint.

 

 

http://www.monstaliner.com/monstaliner_how_to_stop_rust.htm