can you bake that air cleaner to harden the paint?

 

Maybe you should take the time to do the lower half.

 

And the valve covers.

You want the Ceramic base Paint and not just a "Color Match" big difference.

 

As for baking it, I suppose if you put it in a oven no hotter then 300* it might do something. But this paint is make to harden while baking in the sun ect. Does not need excessive heat for awesome results.

 

I plan on repainting the rest of the air cleaner assy, I already painted my new rust free Valve covers, and I might do the Oil pan when I pull the motor.

Good find on the paint for the air cleaner, I'll be adding that to my "to-do" list.

Ive used Rustoleum "spa blue" with great results.

 

As close to factory color as Ive been able to find. And it is holding up very well. No signs of fading or any signs of failure due to heat or oil. I did use an automotive clearcoat over it though.

 

This stuff

 

 

And my air cleaner (retrofitted to weber carb)

 

That looks sweet!

You want the Ceramic base Paint and not just a "Color Match" big difference.

 

As for baking it, I suppose if you put it in a oven no hotter then 300* it might do something. But this paint is make to harden while baking in the sun ect. Does not need excessive heat for awesome results.

 

I plan on repainting the rest of the air cleaner assy, I already painted my new rust free Valve covers, and I might do the Oil pan when I pull the motor.

 

We ran the drying ovens at 250* at my old job, for roughly an hour long trip thru on the conveyor system. Molded plastic automotive trim pieces.

 

Not to sure you would want to go any hotter, but not 100% on it either. But hotter temps could burn the paint.

 

Other household members may not "appreciate" the smell of the paint drying.

I agree you would want a Junk stove in the garage for this type of thing. It will ruin your $4,800 Kennmore Pro-Series Cooking range.

 

I ordered a new Radiator for the GL today, I will have it tomorrow for $130, and its even for a MT!

Got a new Radiator today, will have new upper and lower Molded hoses tomorrow morning.

 

I ordered a new Thermostat and gasket from the dealer, $32 later and I will have it next thursday.

 

Changed the oil today, replaced Fram filter with WIX, 10w-40 GTX, and a little MMO in the oil to clean and recondition.

 

I also ran Seafoam in the Fuel, Carb and Brake Booster. I still have a slight cut out just off of idle..? Hmm. Perhaps I need to adjust the mixture screws until it revs up smoothly?

What type of coating do the Wagon wheels come with from the factory? Are they some type of thermo set coating or what? I sprayed one wheel down with Air-craft stripper and it had no effect on the coating, which was unexpected.

 

WTF?

I finally got the paint on the wheels to blister up and removable. Now, I need to hit it with the wire wheel and then prime and paint.

 

Also, where can I get a new Oil pressure sender? Mine is dripping oil out of the grommet.

 

I found this one for $50!! WTF, isn't this a $10 part?

http://www.redlinemotive.com/store/replacement/wizard.asp?year=1983&make=SU&model=ALL-4WD-002&category=P&part=Oil+Pressure+Sender

Let me know if you find a factory one at a good price. My ej swap has blown out about 5 used EA81 oil senders! I finally just gave up on the oil pressure gauge:(

Will do, so far, I haven't :-\ I really don't feel like spending $50, but mine is leaking pretty good while running.

 

Anyway, Can I get a rebuild kit for the Hitachi DCP306-21 303?

 

 

 

I also repainted my spare wheel I picked up.

 

Edited April 29, 201213 yr by TheLoyale

The spare is looking good! so are you still going to do the 6 lug swap?

The spare is looking good! so are you still going to do the 6 lug swap?

 

Yes, hell yes. The 13s are alright, but I'd prefer 16 with some 205/45s

My goal for this car is to make it handle like my Legacy did. I had Outback KYBs with Forester struts on it, so it was stiff, yet forgiving, I then had 225/60/16 Potenzas on it, it handled like a Track car, and I drove it as such.

 

I enjoyed the hard compound tires I had on that car, took 20mph curves at 50mph, slid it sideways in the rain (Jboymechanic was in the car)

 

So the ski wagon, will get the same make over handling wise.

I like your idea but wont that be hard with a less powerfull engine and a tranny that runs in fwd most of the time.

I like your idea but wont that be hard with a less powerfull engine and a tranny that runs in fwd most of the time.

 

You would think so, but I'm sure a 4EAT 4.11 Legacy vs a 4spd 3.900 EA81 wagon would be about the same (Power to Weight) I was shocked when I drove this car for the first time, the amount of power I had even with a slipping clutch. Maybe I'm used to the 3AT EA82, but this thing has more throttle then the EA82 it seems (Even free revving)

 

Full throttle on an EA82 seems less then Full throttle on the EA81, why? Weird.

To be honest, i think alot had to do with the auto. But that being said, i now have a ea81 but dont quite know how much response the engine will give until i get the exhaust buttoned up.

i think it has something to do with drivetrain drag.. One cam thats gear driven or 2cams with 2belts. With the same size bore and stroke i would think there would be a noticable difference.

 

And the 3at is no race car. Especially with tires bigger than 185/75/13 lol..

 

If i were to race my brothers hatchie with my wag.. Id lose, just saying..

I believe you're onto something with Timing gear vs Timing belt. Perhaps this is why the motor feels less laggy when revved.

 

Interesting.

...but this thing has more throttle then the EA82 it seems (Even free revving)

 

Full throttle on an EA82 seems less then Full throttle on the EA81, why? Weird.

 

I Have Noticed that on certain EA82's that I've serviced and I Found that they have issues such like Restricted Exhaust (Partially Clogged Cats / Mufflers) the Stock Craptachi Carb Dirty... even once I found an EFi EA82 that was running like Crap, (Dirty injectors) but that issues were caused (Beside the minor Exhaust Problems) by things such like ignition Timing misplaced and / or worn sparkplugs plus Dirty fuel Systems.

 

I Fixed 'em with a Proper Tune up, new Sparkplugs + Wires, a Fuel System Cleansing plus catalytic converter Removal...

 

 

The 3EAT Robs a Little from the Engine's Performance, but The Weberized EA82 trend to be more Rev happy.

 

Kind Regards.

Edited April 30, 201213 yr by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
mispelled word, fixed.

I know about restricted EA82 exhaust, Before I replaced the Header/Y-pipe and Midpipe on my EA82 is did not have really any power (Couldn't even get past 55mph easy) I then cut the muffler off, and wow, there was such a change, more power/torque, can drive 75mph fairly easy. So a plugged cat and poor muffler are indeed issues that can change the performance of the SPFI EA82.

 

Back to the GL, I bought boot clamps today, and some cutting discs. I am going to try and get these rockers done soon (If the weather would cooperate)

I'm not surprised that a manual transmission car is faster than the 3at. The 3AT is like driving a 5speed that's missing 1st and 5th gear...

I am really interested in seeing how those remake magnaflow ones from summit perform. But thats quite the price for them.

I am really interested in seeing how those remake magnaflow ones from summit perform. But thats quite the price for them.

 

Make sure you get the one without the O2 sensor port and one with the Heat riser instead. You still have the heat riser on your EA81, right?