Hey all.

What's the best stuff to clean the oil off of new rotors with?

I heard simple green, soap?

Any opinions?

Thanks again.

Dan

I just use a can of brake cleaner and a clean rag works great, and only a few bucks at the parts store. You could also use dish soap or simple green. Just make sure they don't have any oil left on them.

if you have acetone handy - that should work.

I've heard people say they wash them in warm water with dish soap (such as Dawn, nothing that contains any kind of moisturizer, ideally just plain soap like Cal Ben). Then they wash them with brake cleaner. Usually I hit them with brake cleaner, rub them with a rag while it's wet, then brake cleaner again and that seems to work pretty good. Except I bought a case of brake cleaner then realized most of it is non-chlorinated , it was a mixed case.

Acetone? Acckkk! Shades of the old Pottstown Silicon wafer factory!

No, no acetone, but thanks for the other suggestions.

I do have Palmolive. I think that's pretty much plain soap.

I know they recommend it to wash kittens for fleas.

(Not that anyone needs to know that.)

Good weekend, all.

Dan

Edited July 27, 201213 yr by 1997reduxe

Except I bought a case of brake cleaner then realized most of it is non-chlorinated , it was a mixed case.

 

I don't get it, what would be the problem with the non-chlorinated?

 

Dan

chlorinated brake cleaner? i've never heard of it are your sure your not talking about carb cleaner? brake cleaner is made to not leave any residue thats why it is none chlorinated usually.

You can still buy chlorinated brake cleaner in some states. Some like California have outlawed it. CRC brake clean in the green can is non chlorinated and the red can is.

Yes no more chlorinated brake cleaner here, although they still have red and green cans they are the same thing. The brake clean here is just acetone. Cleans up things really well and evaporates to nothing.

 

It's not super toxic, it's actually an organic compound created by the human body. Once evaporated it's half life is 22 days. Try not to mix it with water, as then it stays around a lot longer.

I bought the case of what I thought was chlorinated at Carquest, but then it was like 4 bottles chlorinated and 8 non-chlor. Non chlor is usually bunch of solvents like acetone, MEK, mineral spirits, sometimes toluene and xylene, stuff like that. The chlorinated seems to work better to me. I am surprised it was still available here in NY, since you can't get the good driveway sealer here anymore.

Plain gas.

 

O.

One thing to watch with chlorinated brake clean is welding. The heat of welding will create phosgene gas which will destroy your lungs. So don't use it to clean a part before welding.

One thing to watch with chlorinated brake clean is welding. The heat of welding will create phosgene gas which will destroy your lungs. So don't use it to clean a part before welding.

 

It's is easy to die from it, because if there is enough it shuts down your kidneys. A/C refrigerant when burned produces phosgene gas, that's why you don't smoke when charging/servicing air conditioners

Why use hazardous solvents on your brake rotors? Just use detergent and water. Brake pads and rotors will be exposed to these every time you wash your car, anyway.

Some people ask why; others ask why not. I like to use it so later on in life I can reminisce about the good 'ol days when could buy solvents that worked. Provided the phosgene doesn't get me first. That does sound pretty dangerous

The guy who's doing my brakes says he uses

Grease Lightning? I guess that's ok?

I may just use the Palmolive before I go.

Thanks for all the other chem info, though.

'97

This is all that's used in my shop:

 

http://www.inlandtech.com/catalog/products/brake-prep

 

It works well for general cleaning also. I have a brake parts washer that runs a 3:1 mix of brake-prep and water - it's on a rolling cart and rolls under each wheel to clean all brake components. It's very safe and limits exposure to harsh chemicals - it dries completely clean - cleaner even than aerosol brake cleaning products. I use it to clean valve covers, heads, timing belt cover, engine blocks, etc. A real pleasure to use and all the guys that I've introduced it to swear by it.

 

GD

Edited August 3, 201213 yr by GeneralDisorder

This is all that's used in my shop:

 

http://www.inlandtech.com/catalog/products/brake-prep

 

It works well for general cleaning also. I have a brake parts washer that runs a 3:1 mix of brake-prep and water - it's on a rolling cart and rolls under each wheel to clean all brake components. It's very safe and limits exposure to harsh chemicals - it dries completely clean - cleaner even than aerosol brake cleaning products. I use it to clean valve covers, heads, timing belt cover, engine blocks, etc. A real pleasure to use and all the guys that I've introduced it to swear by it.

 

GD

 

Is this available at any retail outlet?

Is this available at any retail outlet?

 

+1 Inquiring minds want to know.

That sounds great. I'm a convert and I haven't ever seen the stuff.

I have replaced only a few rotors in my shade tree mechanic work. Yea, I noticed the oily coating, which I gathered was put on there to prevent rusting. I have never bothered to remove the oily coating, and haven't noticed anything negative. My brakes seemed to work well, even with the oily coating. After exposure to the elements, the oily coating will disappear on its own, and is not noticeable when changing brake pads months and years later.

I have replaced only a few rotors in my shade tree mechanic work. Yea, I noticed the oily coating, which I gathered was put on there to prevent rusting. I have never bothered to remove the oily coating, and haven't noticed anything negative. My brakes seemed to work well, even with the oily coating. After exposure to the elements, the oily coating will disappear on its own, and is not noticeable when changing brake pads months and years later.

 

same thing i do

hmmm.

my mech washed them with the greased lightning

and tho that seems like pretty wicked stuff, the

the brakes are running fine. The GL seems like a

wicked sodium hydroxide soap.

But just for completeness sake i'll put this link about

taking cosmoline off of rotors:

 

http://www.ehow.com/how_2211401_clean-install-new-brake-rotors.html

 

and the basic idea i get is that the oil if left on will

contaminate the pads and their braking quality.

but, i guess that could vary according to pad type.

didn't want to mess with my new ceramics...

i put a set of ceramics and rotors on from oriely and didn't clean the rotors and i never had any problems

i put a set of ceramics and rotors on from oriely and didn't clean the rotors and i never had any problems

 

Not cleaning new rotors is completely stupid and your limited experience is showing profoundly.

 

I have received rotors with oil dripping off them. Very common with some suppliers. They all have some amount of oil on them to prevent corrosion while being shipped from china and stored. This stuff is not condusive to braking and must be removed prior to installation for BEST performance. If you do not clean them you are reducing braking performance. That is not acceptable.

 

Pad material is porus and sensitive to any kind of lubricant - even water. Wet brakes perform poorly and oily brakes are a safety hazard.

 

GD

well if the rotors had been dripping oil i would have cleaned them, but there was so little oil on mine i didn't even mess with it and i think your ego is ahead of you there gd as soon as i put the brakes on i did a test drive and had no problem i had exceptionally good braking power i was able to lock my wheels up doing 30 so i think it worked just fine

Edited August 5, 201213 yr by mikaleda