Ok guys help me out. I have an 88 Rx and the electric windows works and doesn't work. Does anyone know of some aftermarket window controls so I can change those stupid things out? Thx guys

If all the windows are having a problem then I would suspect a power problem to the main panel. There may be a broken wire in the harness located in the door jam.

i ran a screw from the speaker in to a wire on my door and shorted the window controls on the drivers door and the controls on the other doors still worked fine now it works right after i fixed the wire

Ok guys help me out. I have an 88 Rx and the electric windows works and doesn't work. Does anyone know of some aftermarket window controls so I can change those stupid things out? Thx guys

There should be a relay and control unit under the carpet behind the seat on the floor board. There is most likely a problem in this area (corroded and or burned wire, ect). It might be an easy fix.

I am currently knee deep in an EXTREMELY low mile, well kept 85 turbo traction wagon. Ive got it all torn down and none of the leads from the 7 or 8 threads from here and other places are the issue. everything on or in this thing looks younger than the 68k it actually has on it. ive found no corrosion anywhere, ive found no broken wires. Ive even swapped in a replacement door harness to make double sure.

 

Im about to rip the relay outta my wheeler as a last attempt before admitting defeat (for now) and putting this lil cutie back together.

I have no power to the red cluster of wires, or to the main one on the DS (the one on the 2 pin connector with the main ground).

mk, ive also "clicked the relays" manually with the battery.....i think thats it for now. Got answers? 

Well, about the Relays and Wirings, I kindly suggest you to review this Writeup:

 

~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/87523-how-to-swap-the-old-roundie-relays-with-standard-bosch-relays/

 

 

Meanwhile, I recall that Txakura had similar situation and Found cutted wires on the wiring harness behind the Driver's side fender:

 

~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/24584-power-windows-again/page-2?do=findComment&comment=778292

 

 

Edit, I found his complete Writeup here:

 

~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/92467-power-window-repair/

 

Good Luck!

Kind Regards.

Edited November 10, 201312 yr by Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Thanks Jeszek, Ive been through all of those threads and those were not the issues. this car is almost showroom quality, has no corrosion on any connections...thats why im stumped

You're Welcome!

 

Have you already checked the Fusible Links on the Engine Bay? 

 

Sometimes corrosion is Hiding on their contacts...

+1 check wire harness under the seat lots o problems in that area gets wett in the winter and corodes the grounds

ive checked it all, ive found zero corrosion, this car has 68k on it and lived inside for most of its life.

ive checked it all, ive found zero corrosion, this car has 68k on it and lived inside for most of its life.

 

Possible causes:

1.  Gunk in the guides not allowing the window wheels to slide.  Remove guides, inspect and clean as required.  Add white lithium grease.

2.  Corrosion in the switch.  Change out the switch.

3.  Corrosion in the motors.  Change out the motors.  I did recently on an 86 that had been stored inside but had 405,000 miles, and it makes a world of difference.

The window circuit uses a circuit breaker to supply power to the power windows. Do you have power out of it? Power then ties to a power relay that is controlled by a control module for the window circuit. Make sure that relay closes when demand for power is made.

I have no power to the red cluster of wires, or to the main one on the DS (the one on the 2 pin connector with the main ground).

mk, ive also "clicked the relays" manually with the battery.....i think thats it for now. Got answers? 

 

Okay.....this is the problem.

 

Let's start from the begining.  The Red wires get power through the Relay under the seat.  Relay gets power from the Circuit breaker.

 

So start by checking the relay.  Is there power at the White wire?  yes?   Then the problem is in the relay, or signal volts from Ignition switch (R/Y)  No power to either??

 

Then check for a 3 pole connector, up past the passenger side kick panel...with the R/Y and the Big White wires in it.  Make sure it's connected.

 

Now, if the White wire doesn't have power but the R/Y does, then .....check the breaker......12v in?  then breaker faulty.  No 12v at all......then on to the next...

 

Open hood, on the passenger side......right behind the headlight.....hidden by the A/C dryer.....is a 2 prong/white connector, with a large white wire in it.  Labeled "F12" in the FSM diagrahms.   Make sure it's connected.....and check for voltage there.  No?  Then check the green Fusible link.

 

You will find it somewhere on this cicuit.

Have you dismantled the door switches?

They are metal contacts and gunk up over the years, meaning the contact faces no longer conduct electricity.

Done this to a few cars now.

 

And while you've got the door trims off, test the window motors by connecting directly to a battery.

Edited November 10, 201312 yr by wagonist

well he needed the car back, so next time its around ill check out what you said there Gloyale. I should have gotten pics, this car is so brand new its crazy..still has door sticker and all.

 

 

 For clarity, I checked all switches, junctions, and relays other than the connection under the hood. all rails were nice and lubed. apparently i shouldnt have had power to something that did... so ill post back when i get another crack at it.

I used to have an entry in the repair manual section with pictures. I went through this system and found that the main power and the main ground are prone to breaking. Check inside the rubber flex section that protects the wiring in the hinge gap from the body to the door, they chaff on the driver door cutout. This creates interesting symptoms that will have you running all over, the wires  can be viewed by pulling back the flex boot between the door and body in the hinge area. You may need an inspection mirror and flashlight. Look to the point where the wires cross that nice sharp edge of the hole in the driver door.

 

I repaired mine by removing the door, (the wiring unplugs inside the driver kick panel and can be fished out through the hole in the body), when it was all off, I spliced new sections inside the door so that fresh wire ran through the door gap and the splice was not in a an area that would flex or move. Door removal isn't necessary, I had time and a good work space.

 

Since then I have seen another repair where the owner simply ran two new wires under the existing flex boot into the door. He spliced them under the kick panel, and inside the door so that only fresh wire was exposed and the splices were out of harms way.

 

IIRC with my ground wire sheared, the passenger side was grounding through the master panel in the driver door and only the passenger side worked. If your power wire was sheared, nothing would work at all.\

 

Good luck, post a follow up when you find it.

I used to have an entry in the repair manual section with pictures. ...

 

Here it is: 

 

~►  http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/92467-power-window-repair/

 

Kind Regards.

Thanks guys, thats how I ascertained what wasnt the problem. I read the write-up, several others, and they were all very helpful. It just so happens that my circumstances differ from those that caused the issues pertaining to said write ups. I have a good handle on what to do now and ill report back whence it takes place. RV

... It just so happens that my circumstances differ from those that caused the issues pertaining to said write ups. ...

 

Please post here Feedback in order to help others that Might be experiencing same problems with theirs Subies.

 

Kind Regards.

Just joined picked up a 85 gl wagon cheap runs drives great potential for fun. No windows were working thanks to the info here they do now thanks. The pink connector behind the passenger kick panel corroded the blades off big white wire and two green wires thanks again

Edited July 18, 20178 yr by fatherofallthingers

Just joined picked up a 85 gl wagon cheap runs drives great potential for fun. No windows were working thanks to the info here they do now thanks. The pink connector behind the passenger kick panel corroded the blades off big white wire and two green wires thanks again

The corrosion came from water dripping through the air intake vents by the exterior windshield wiper connection.  You will need to apply black caulking to the exterior plastic removable panels at the bottom edge of the windshield, in order to keep more water from dripping through that vent and into the electronics beneath the dash, and also onto the carpet.