So i have a 1992 loyale, i replaced the head gaskets last winter. and im starting to get scared that im gonna have to tear it apart again. It leaks very slowly from the camshaft housing and valve cover, and has a tick when the motor is cold. My question is should i grow a pair, rip it apart and fix it or should i look at other options? 

I'd drive it.

Look up "tick of death" for the noise.

When the leaking gets bad enough, reseal the cam tower /s.

Did you use the oem metal reinforced o rings?

I'm with dave! Drive it... ea82 we all have tick of death, mine's had it or 9yrs that I've owned it replace oil pump gaskets Mickey mouse ring replace oil pump additives motor honey,Risoline,10w40 10w30,40w 30w, marvel mystery oil nothing will make it go away... somedays all I hear is the fan, other days driving down the road I am imagining everything wading up into a ball under the valve cover... not yet.. I don't think it ever will..

Yeah i replaced the cam tower seals with OEM ones when i did my headgaskets. itd probably help if i had them machined and did a better gasket job. didn't cut any corners on the headgasket itself though. One more question? my heater is awful, car doesn't over heat, fresh thermostat and blower motor. but sometimes when i shut down the car it makes a bubbling noise...? any ideas on solving my heater issue and does the bubbling correlate 

just did some reading on an old post on the heater and gonna try getting a thermostat from the subie dealer, and checking out that fresh air inlet line behind the glovebox and see if that helps if you have any other ideas let me know.

...if you have any other ideas let me know.

 

Yes, regarding this:

 

... a tick when the motor is cold ...

 

If the Tick only sounds when the engine is Cold, then there's a chance that it is Not the Tick of Death, and I guess that you might be are using a Heavy engine Oil for your Climate, and / or maybe you're using a Monograde oil and a large oil Filter.

 

I have thirtyone years using 20W~50 on my 400K miles old EA82, but I live in the Caribbean (Honduras), where climate Never gets too Hot nor too Cold; but here never snows; However, that number of oil, will be too Thick during cold starts in cold climate Areas, especially during winter times.

 

I kindly suggest you to let us Know which SAE number of oil are you using on your EA82, and how is the climate on your area, then maybe we can suggest you a best option.

 

Kind Regards.

Oem or best quality Stant for the thermostat. I'm running a 180 degree in one, and a 190 (normal temp) in the other. The heater is much better in the car 190 degree car. I'm in CT, so get a range of temps year round. I run 10w-40 synthetic oil. +1 oil pump seals, including the shaft seal. The bubbling bothers me. That's not normal especially if it is coming from the cooling system. There should be nearly none to zero air in the radiator / upper hose. Check the upper hose by sharply squeening it while listening for the giggle pin, and air gurgles. Check the level in the recovery tank. Before every cold start for a while, to see what is going on. It takes several times / days to gather this data l, unless things are going downhill fast. Waiting to see the temp gauge go over normal while low on coolant is bad for headgaskets.

The 'boiling water' sound is an indicator worth resolving.  I have detected that on my original 1.8L stock motor 1992 Loyale 204,000 miles. I find it happens if I'm driving hard and then stop the engine suddenly. Where if I arrive at my destination and let it idle a few minutes before powering it off, it's much happier.  

 

I need to get the air out of the system. I plan on using a mechanic friend's tools to pull a vacuum and then allow the vacuum to suck in all the radiator fluid.  I just haven't done it yet.

Usually when the cam seals go it pours, not leaks.   Just drive it and beat on it like a red-headed step child. 

I'm not sure pulling a vacuum on the coolant system is a good idea. Certainly not more than a few psi. The small amount of air left after the usual "burp" procedure will work it's way out in a few drive cycles IF everything else is working correctly, sealed / no leaks.

 

I saw a funnel system for sale on amazon that makes it a lot easier to fully fill the system without making a mess.

Mine ticked / clattered away for years  - wasn't continuous -  just from cold -sounds terrible though to the uninitiated  but  didn't worry about it too much -  didn't do any thing apart from running 20W-50 oil as prerviouslly mentioned,  after talking to a Subaru mechanic. 

If correct thermostat has been fitted it

Sounds as if the heater core  could be  blocked considering age of car and poor heating.that you mention.

there is a good chance the radiator could be heading that way as well  considering the gurgling noises that you mention.

Had similar issues with my 86 GL EA82  due to poor / no  cooling system maintenance by previous owners.

 

Agree can try releasing air from the system - the best way to do this is to run engine for 20-30 minutes from cold with radiator cap OFF topping up when necessary  ( full) until engine comes up to temperature  ie themostat opens circulating water /coolant thoughout system pushing air out releasing it at the highest point (open radiator cap)

stop engine  - replace  radiator cap - top up - expansion tank to correct level  so it can draw water to keep system full as cools down.

This works for ALL vehicles  not just Subarus  have been doing it this way for 40+ years successfully with no problems.

 

Can buy / use radiator fill funnels as previously mentioned that make it less messy

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Edited September 8, 20169 yr by subnz

How did you seal the cam towers to the heads?   Not the o-ring, but like ultra-grey or anerobic sealant?

i use 10w40 in summer and 10w30 in winter. ill have to check it out with the cooling system last winter i burped it several times and flushed heater core getting same temp out of both hoses and it was still cold...

also looking to lift my subaru... and all of them that i see lifted have bigger wheels... how could i go about getting bigger wheels?

Easiest way: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/128105-offcial-6-lug-re-drill-thread/

Easiest way: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/128105-offcial-6-lug-re-drill-thread/

I just looked at the 6 bolt thread , noticed the 9/16 drilled and welded studs, now that works but if you use a 14MM bit then the stock studs press right in like the stock ones no welding needed