Tell me what you guys think. I'm thinking bad gas because it's been sitting for over a year. Am I being too optimistic?

I don't know about "optimistic" but since you haven't provided any information, I doubt folks will be able to help.

 

Did you remember to put a battery back into the car / hook it up ?

Timing belt screw up/distributer not correctly timed/coil bracket not grounded/engine harness not completely plugged in/do you have spark?

It took a little bit for the video to upload sorry, yes to spark. The timing marks on the cam gears line up.

It runs sometimes when you hold the pedal to the floor

Can of seafoam and fresh gas in the tank. It'll clear any varnish/gunk from the fuel delivery system.

 

I didn't get to view the YouTube video yet, is it carbureted or fuel injected?

 

Twitch

Spray carb cleaner down the throat for 1 to 2 seconds. Then try cranking. If it fires momentarily, it's bad fuel / no fuel.

Sounds like a no fuel problem.  Bad fuel would start but run lousy.  Check your fuel pump.  Make sure you have the fuel lines hooked up correctly and tight. 

I ran a bunch of old fuel for a while a number of years ago.  The main problem was if it had water in it.  I made a setup to remove the water.  I was amazed at how stale of old gas I could run without trouble.  The worst stuff I had, I had to mix 50/50 with new.

Fuel cut module kicking in until you're cranking/engine is running.

 

Short the fuel pump to make it run to ensure it's primed the fuel system good and proper.

 

Cheers

Bennie

I rechecked the timing and sure enough the distributor was 180 degrees off, but now that I put it at TDC and have the distributor facing the 1 spark plug it just backfires and I cant even get it to run with the pedal on the floor.

I rechecked the timing and sure enough the distributor was 180 degrees off, but now that I put it at TDC and have the distributor facing the 1 spark plug it just backfires and I cant even get it to run with the pedal on the floor.

 

You sure about being 180 out?

Engine would not run if the timing was 180 out.

 

Sounds more like an OVER fueling problem-carb flooding -bad injector or MAF etc.

You sure about being 180 out?

Engine would not run if the timing was 180 out.

 

Sounds more like an OVER fueling problem-carb flooding -bad injector or MAF etc.

I turned the crankshaft until the 0 mark and when I removed the dist cap, the rotor was pointing at the number 2 spark plug. So I reset it to the 1 spark plug, this is correct? and if the maf is bad or injector, how available are those parts?

To me, it sounds like a flooding problem that I had a few months ago. The injector was stuck in on position, so I had to run to the junkyard to get a new (used) one. Is there any gas smell? Reminds me of a few tedious days of posting on this forum. If no gas smell, then it might be a no fuel.

There is a gas smell and there aren't any junkyards that have a loyale near me. Anyone know where I could get one?

pull plugs to see if they are getting wet from fueling but not firing

pulled the plugs and smelled gas and the plug was wet. Sparks are happening 

If you're getting fuel to the plugs and spark then you have a timing problem. Double check plug wires to correct plugs, distributor, cam orientation.

Edited March 30, 20188 yr by Dee2

Remember, 1-3-2-4, counter clockwise.

Doesn't matter which contact is cyl 1 as long as you follow that order.

 

Twitch

I turned the crankshaft until the 0 mark and when I removed the dist cap, the rotor was pointing at the number 2 spark plug. So I reset it to the 1 spark plug, this is correct? and if the maf is bad or injector, how available are those parts?

 

Crank rotates twice for every once the cams do.  So there is a #TDC for compression and exhaust strokes.

 

Well, you may have just needed to rotate another full crank turn and then it would have been correct.  Sounds like you swapped it TO 180 out.

 

You can check wether you're on compression stroke by pulling the outer timing belt covers.

 

Line up the crank to 0 tdc, then look at the cam dots.  Are they diagonal outward?  or in towards engine?  If there IN, then rotate one full crank rotation.  Now the dots should be "out" diagonally.  This is the #1 compression stroke.  NOW check the disty rotor and set it accordingly to point at #1.

Thank you gloyale and everyone else, I got it running by resetting the belt, thinking I was one tooth off. I remembered reading somewhere about the cam dots facing out and I set them to that position. Put the rotor at 1 and it started right up! Now a problem I've been having ever since I got the car that still happens is smoking out of the catalytic converter. What would cause this? A bad cat or something else?

cat is probably partially blocked.   Some guys clean em out with a wire.      Or, there is liquid fuel in the cat from no-start condition.  All my 80's Soobs are cat-deleted.    Take car on highway, run at 4k rpm until fixed.   Make sure oil and coolant is filled correctly.

Oil or some form of grease etc on the cat that's burning off. Check your cv boot above the cat to ensure there's not a little pin hole in it - although this should be obvious as you'll have cv grease splatter in every direction in line with the hole.

 

Cheers

 

Bennie

I'm currently trying to gut my cat by sticking a screwdriver through the o2 sensor hole and hammering away. I don't have access to a welder, is there any easier way to gut it?