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Loss of power in 2.2

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This hasn't happened in a while; this morning when not letting the 96 2.2 warm up, I pulled out and a mile down the road ascending a hill a loss of power with CEL.  I had to pull over for around a minute then it was OK.  There has been no CEL code for a while.  Any thoughts on sensors that could be to blame? I changed out the MAF sensor a couple years ago.  

Read the stored codes with the test connectors. That’ll be your starting point. 

Cheers 

Bennie

  • Author

Flashing CEL; it hadn't happened in a while.  Gas was low but don't think that caused it, there were a couple gallons in the tank I think.  I think I've gotten a coolant temp sensor or something before.  I have to go to Auto Zone for a code read.  

 

The pattern has been periodically trying to accelerate uphill, engine loses power and stalls out with flashing CEL.  Goes back to normal after pulling off for a minute. 

Edited by ThosL

Near the steering column behind the kick panel above the driver’s feet are two black plug with a single wire each. 

Plug these together, turn the ignition to the ON position without the engine running. 

Watch the check engine light - long flash = value of ten, short flash = value of one. 

The ECU will cycle through all stored codes. So once you’ve got them recorded on paper and you’re re-reading them innthe flashing CEL you know you’ve got them all. 

If there are no stored codes, you’ll have a series of single flashes that tells you the ECU area designation/market. 

You can then look up these codes to find out what they are. 

My bet is the IACV is the culprit. 

Cheers 

Bennie

  • Author

CEL went off next drive.  Could be gas issue.  

10 hours ago, ThosL said:

CEL went off next drive.  Could be gas issue.  

CEL typically doesn’t come on due to a fuel issue. If you’ve got bad fuel the exu will pull timing. 

But if you’ve got an injector issue it could throw a CEL, this is why you need to check the codes - and you don’t need a scanner to do it either! 

Cheers 

Bennie

Gravity is inescapable. Going up a hill, loss of power might be a clogged cat converter? Pieces of medium shifting to restrict flow.

Edited by brus brother

I bought a Panlong mini obdII reader on amazon for $10.00 and then I use the torque engine management diagnostic software for android. There is a free version and one for like 2.00.  I bought the sw as it was cheap and I felt worth it.  Saves you many a trip to the parts store for a scan.

 

Flashing CEL usually means a misfire.  Could be plugs/wires/coil.  Subaru's are fussy for NGK plugs and NGK or Subaru wires.  If possible get an OEM coil from a pull and pay yard if available. Aftermarket coils don't last.

  • Author

Wires, plugs and coil are good and recent, that is not it.  Could be fuel injector or sensor as others suggested.  

Flashing CEL means multiple cylinder misfire.  You have 2 or more misfires.  There are cheap scanners so you never have to go anywhere.  They pay for themselves in gas alone with a couple uses, not too mention time and quicker diagnostics. 

Check timing belt, tensioner, and pulleys
Check plugs and wires.
Coil pack - it can be tested and knowing which cylinders are misfiring can help point that direction. 
 

13 hours ago, ThosL said:

Wires, plugs and coil are good and recent, that is not it.  Could be fuel injector or sensor as others suggested.  

what brand(s)?? It DOES matter.

99% of the time miss-fires are bad wires. Use NGK the ones you get at autozone and the likes are junk.

Next go after plugs. 

Also check the coil terminals for corrosion. They should be bright

 

If you got a coil from Autozone that could be the issue too. The aftermarket ones they sell are junk. You are better with a used Subaru one.

I have worked on Subarus only for 14 years and have only replaced a couple.  They had burnt terminals from crappy wire sets being installed.

 

Misfire in bank three can indicate a bad knock sensor but generally when I have seen performance issues that involved flashing CEL  it was either a bad fuel injector or wiring to an injector. You can use alligator clips and wire to run 12v to them from the battery to test or even to back flush them with carburetor cleaner. 

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