November 3, 200421 yr So after trying to chase down an exhaust leak, I decided to finish up the header/crossover pipe and ditch that POS stock pipe. I think TWE said it best by refering to it as an ugly piece of bathroom plumbing. It's true, I cut off the heat sheilding to see where the crack was and I almost got sick..... check out this pos..... http://usmb.net/albums/album290/P6160096.jpg They don't look too bad with the heatsheilding covering the super skiny (like 1.125" id) elbows and that "uppipe" area (I understand what you were saying now Russ) So anyway, I got Mike (mtsfab) to cut me some beefy 3/8 SS flanges and finished welding up the sched 40 weld elbows and straights. I forgot to take some photos before I wrapped it in heatsheild but you get the idea http://usmb.net/gallery/album290/P6160094?full=1 http://usmb.net/gallery/album290/P6160095?full=1 I just got it back on the motor and I'm making some adjustments to my ghetto exhaust so everything will bolt up. I'll let you know how it flows and how it effects boost/lag I am going to guess that it will be a little laggy as there is more volume than stock. the Id of the tube is bigger than it aught to be as well but this is just the first draft...... garner
November 4, 200421 yr That looks good bud, to me a bit better than the TWE. I would have gone with smaller dia. piping though, as I would want super quick spool up. Not going to worry too much about super insane 120+ cruising speeds.
November 4, 200421 yr Author I would have gone with smaller dia. piping though, as I would want super quick spool up. Not going to worry too much about super insane 120+ cruising speeds. Yep, I'm thinking no bigger than 1 3/8" ish ID would be good. I had a bunch of these stainless pipe fitings that are schedule 40 304 stainless so I used them. The good is the wall on these things is really thick so it'll get hot and stay hot, moving exhaust faster. The design is pretty close to "tuned length" The bad is they are like almost 1 5/8" id... What would you think would be a good id? I'll report back when I get to run it.... garner
November 4, 200421 yr Sharp. Screw buying stuff you can build. If you don't like it, try again. Soon as I get these shows built (theatre), I'm going to start on my piping for the FMIC and the header/crossover. I like seeing what people can build. For the price of the TWE pieces, someone could buy a wire feed welder and build all of it. To each his own. Keep the board updated on the performance enhancement or other changes. Good job. Jay
November 4, 200421 yr ...So anyway, I got Mike (mtsfab) to cut me some beefy 3/8 SS flanges and finished welding up the sched 40 weld elbows and straights. I forgot to take some photos before I wrapped it in heatsheild but you get the idea... I have heard of using weld-els before, but where can you find them? (Either SS or reg steel.) I haven't been able to pull up the pics yet (silly browser prob, me thinks), but sounds good! *Edit - Just got the pictures... End Edit*
November 4, 200421 yr So after trying to chase down an exhaust leak, I decided to finish up the header/crossover pipe and ditch that POS stock pipe. I think TWE said it best by refering to it as an ugly piece of bathroom plumbing. It's true, I cut off the heat sheilding to see where the crack was and I almost got sick..... check out this pos..... http://usmb.net/albums/album290/P6160096.jpg They don't look too bad with the heatsheilding covering the super skiny (like 1.125" id) elbows and that "uppipe" area (I understand what you were saying now Russ) So anyway, I got Mike (mtsfab) to cut me some beefy 3/8 SS flanges and finished welding up the sched 40 weld elbows and straights. I forgot to take some photos before I wrapped it in heatsheild but you get the idea http://usmb.net/gallery/album290/P6160094?full=1 http://usmb.net/gallery/album290/P6160095?full=1 I just got it back on the motor and I'm making some adjustments to my ghetto exhaust so everything will bolt up. I'll let you know how it flows and how it effects boost/lag I am going to guess that it will be a little laggy as there is more volume than stock. the Id of the tube is bigger than it aught to be as well but this is just the first draft...... garner Copy cat.
November 4, 200421 yr Author I have heard of using weld-els before, but where can you find them? (Either SS or reg steel.) I got 'em in eugene but you could get'em from mcmaster carr... WJM, "copy cat" well, sort of, I might have bought the TWE pieces but in my situation, I am pretty sure I would have had serious clearence issues, so I built to fit.... we'll see how it works.... garner
November 4, 200421 yr the TWE units are sweet but you have done a great job of coming close. you did not eliminate the up a little further pipe? I thought you planed on doing that? well hey looks great hope it work well. thats a better version of what I did. now you know what I mean about the restrictive bend huh.
November 4, 200421 yr i like the 4 bolt flanges, i was thinking about doing that when i re-do my system -mike
November 4, 200421 yr hey garner.. uh make your bolt holes a bit bigger on the exhaust flanges.. good job but using what you did.. i would worry about heat expansion breaking things if you ever decide to redo it in the future maybe look into a small piece of ss exhasut bellows stuff so it will absorb the expansion then again nothing may happen but i would kep looking for broken bolts and such after a while to be sure that why i suggested makeing the flange holes bigger so it has room to move it it has to just one of my nifty off teh wall way out in left field thinking things
November 4, 200421 yr ya i like the 4 bolt flanges too, only looks like one or two will be hard to get to. i like. build it, screw buying it!
November 4, 200421 yr Author russ, I did eliminate the "up a little further pipe" It's available now as a tdo4 adapter kit Yep, four bolt is good but ther is one that I have to screw with a bit to get a nut on the stud, it leaks right there now In running it a bit last night its pretty obvious to me that the id of these weld elbows and 1 1/2 sched 40 pipe is too big. Probably would have been better off with 1 1/4 sched 40 as the id would be about 1 3/8" It could be the leak I've got, but boost is latter than it used to be, man it revs like crazy though. I'll drive it tonight and see how it goes. Well, one step forward 3/4 of a step backwards..... garner
November 4, 200421 yr hey garner, could i barrow the up a little further pipe for a while, till i can get my headers made?? pretty plaese, with cherries on top?
November 4, 200421 yr if you want to build a couple of these, I can swing some cash your way depending on me getting this RX....
November 4, 200421 yr Author hey garner, could i barrow the up a little further pipe for a while, till i can get my headers made?? pretty plaese, with cherries on top? Is your RX even running? Sorry if I'm rubbing it in or.... The problem you would face with the is downpipe would need to be modified as the angle and possition this thing puts the turbo is quite a bit different.... Oddcomp, You're right, I drilled the holes like 1/2" for the 10mm studs, think thats enough? The damn thing could probably rip the heads off if it wanted to..... garner
November 4, 200421 yr Garner, I would shoot for an inside diameter of 1 1/4 - 1 3/8. Also, where are the too pipes merging? Also, one might think to make the pipe after the merger larger, but I would do jus the opposite, a touch smaller, this will help accelerate the exhaust pulses into the turbo. I really need to get a welder and get to work learning. I think its completely awesome you have these talents and are doing neat things with them.
November 5, 200421 yr Author Garner, I would shoot for an inside diameter of 1 1/4 - 1 3/8. Also, where are the too pipes merging? I think its completely awesome you have these talents and are doing neat things with them. Tex, Thanks for the props, I always knew my BFA and MFA in sculpture would get me somewhere (seriously, it's how I learned to do fab work) Yes, I think 1 3/8 would be perfect, then just a tiny bottle neck to 1 1/4 after the merge. btw, this pipe merges right at the turbo but its an oval probably 1 5/8 x 1 7/8.(too big) I understand the TWE is 1 7/8 id, thats too frickin big by my understanding at least for those of us who don't have ceramic bearing turbos...... I ran it tonight for a little cruise still hauls rump roast but a touch on the laggy side. I'm hitting full boost (no boost controller ~ 7.5 lbs at about 3500 ish). Once on boost, it screeams but it would be nicer to get there a little quicker. well, off to my little bros wedding, no more tinkering this week.... garner
November 5, 200421 yr thanks to the efforts of snotrocket and a few others, the rx is running and will hopefully be on the road in the next couple of weeks now that i have a job. at the moment i need to run a heavy duty injector and fuel claener throught the system and a few other little things, as well as get all the junk outta the car, its filledwith parts, tools, trash and possibly animals. i am really trying harder to get it on the road now that i have a job and my impreza is starting to gripe at me.granted some of that is my fault.
August 28, 200520 yr I'm glad no-one has resurrected my uppipe header fab thread. I haven't done anything since building the jig. It's an unusual garage ornament to have around. Jay
August 28, 200520 yr Why not go into production of these manifolds? I know there are a few people out there that are willing to do the swap, but are low on funds (high school kids ). Good work though. -Victor
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