WJM Posted January 16, 2004 Share Posted January 16, 2004 $210, PER cam. Where as delta, shipping and all, I got for $120. BOTH cams. Yeah, idle doenst matter, just set it for a 2k idle, and GO! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonOfScio Posted January 16, 2004 Share Posted January 16, 2004 but WJM, for you, and all the other EA82 people, $120 for two cams is because your cams are small, for someone with an EA81 like me, it would be $120 for one cam right? Even at that, it's way better pricing than paeco. Paeco can do lots of stuff Delta can't, but that's because Delta specializes in one field... CAMS. heh. Delta Cams. get it? ...nevermind. Anyhow. I want to know, if you drive your '86 XT-T around normally, what kind of mileage your getting on average? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dj72 Posted January 16, 2004 Author Share Posted January 16, 2004 I know Paeco is a bit more but they do very nice work. Also WJM break in your motor before you test it, you don't want to blow it up the first day. Also the reading will be lower since everything won't be broken in. I had to reset my timing and idle 6 times while everything was breaking in, so i would hold off on the dyno until you have at least a few miles on your car. Jonofscio my mileage has gone down but it could mostly be my heavy foot, i still usually get about 20mpg in the city and on the highway at least 28mpg, and this is at 15psi. I do drive the car almost every day. One thing about these cams they hit at the same time the turbo does,eg. i'll put my foot at about 1/4 throttle and keep it there and the car will accelerate normally till it hits the 3500rpm range then the cams and turbo wake up and give you a kick in the head and i don't move my foot at all. I have showed quite a few of my muscle car buddies this and even they are impressed at the hit this little car gives. They find it kind of funny something so small can give a nice acceleration hit like a good old muscle car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonOfScio Posted January 16, 2004 Share Posted January 16, 2004 yeah - big muscle cars are fun, but who has suped up subarus? Seems like everyone and there mother has seen *tons* of hopped up small blocks and v8s, but what about those 80s subarus? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dj72 Posted January 16, 2004 Author Share Posted January 16, 2004 Now there is one and i'm not even close to being done this car yet. More mods and fun to come. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis ex24 Posted January 16, 2004 Share Posted January 16, 2004 how are you getting 15psi while the front mount is 'out of commission'? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoahDL88 Posted January 16, 2004 Share Posted January 16, 2004 How did you bypass the over-boost cutoff, the best minds on this board have yet to figure that out, Why do you still claim that the oil cooler adds hp Why do you ignore the real questions, like why don't your hp and torque cross at 5252 and if this thing has the power at high RPM's why does it taper at 5000? these are the questions that need answering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dj72 Posted January 16, 2004 Author Share Posted January 16, 2004 I already said that the oil cooler doesn't produce hp its only there to keep the temp down. I still have an ic, though not as good as my other one but i can still run 15psi. The overboost stuff is blocked off and nonfunctional. The previous dyno is a f-up so thats why i'm taking the car 250miles back to my hometown in the spring to get it dyno'd at i shop i know and trust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted January 16, 2004 Share Posted January 16, 2004 If im correct, the over boost stuff is tied into the ecu, so if it was all blocked off and disconnected, then how can your car even run? the diagnostics would pick it up every time you start the car! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted January 16, 2004 Share Posted January 16, 2004 In dj's defense, its an 86.. bypassing the overboost control is easy on 85-86 turbo cars.. its 87 and up that are troublesome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted January 17, 2004 Share Posted January 17, 2004 JonOfScio: I guess os, maybe less. dj72: Ive got 19k miles on this engine right now. Its been in the car for 13 months. Is that enough break in? ok, since i wont be installing the cams, the car is ready for the dyno. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dj72 Posted January 17, 2004 Author Share Posted January 17, 2004 WJM i thought you were just going to throw the cams in then go hit the dyno. I was just trying to help ya save your motor. A before and after dyno will be interesting though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted January 17, 2004 Share Posted January 17, 2004 I WAS going to throw them in, i wanted to back up your claims, as well as the other engine I built, but blew the head gaskets. I didnt have time to install them...i had to go to work, that and i have not shop... I really need one. Plus, I sold the cams after I made that decision. I will stil be running it on the dyno. Ive got the first 9.5:1 turbo EA82, to everyone's knowledge (that runs properly) and ive got race fuel in it now, 100 octane, and it will make several pulls tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobie steve Posted January 17, 2004 Share Posted January 17, 2004 WJM i am dying to see some real dynos of these ea82. If i had to guess i am thinking about 140whp. are you still on stock turbo, injectors? Any intercooling? Post those numbers when you get them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRX Posted January 17, 2004 Share Posted January 17, 2004 dj72 - no way am i gonna wade into the veracity debate (besides - i think dyno runs are kinda like benchmark programs on computers - who cares about the numbers if it goes like a shower of sh*t), but i am real curious about yr progress as my moter sounds a lot like yrs except for the IC (hence I dont run over 10psi) It was originally built up by mechanics from an official Subaru rally team in Aus, before finding its way to my car, and played with a bit buy someone else a while but not really run much since last rebuild. Apparantly has forged pistons (cant vouch for this - not seen em), head work (running Gen 3 heads at least - seen no deeper), has the 30-70 70-30 cams as mentioned (seen these), high-tensile socketted head bolts (seen these - look NOTHING like standard). Stuff had to be removed before going into my car to keep it legal for inspection - HUGE fuel rails like towel rails, plugged up manifold, oversize injectors. I think it was built to run massive boost and survive - my requirements much more modest. Unfortunatley it seems to have a burned/leaking valve or busted valve spring so with such low compression in one cylinder and mixtures and vacuum all mucked up I cant get it to run right - after i fix it...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dj72 Posted January 17, 2004 Author Share Posted January 17, 2004 WJM you should have at least 140hp but i think you should get a touch more. Also since yours is also a 86 block off all the overboost stuff, go buy a boost control valve and turn it up no higher than 12 psi without ic. But since your running 100 octane it should be safe anyway. When i run 103 vp racing unleaded fuel i can crank mine up to 17psi compared to 14-15psi with 93 octane. Plus the 103 has a nice smell to it and it makes your exhaust smell different so only a true racer will know what kind of fuel your running. Also get rid of that factory airbox and put on a decent flowing aircleaner, its a easy and cheap way to gain a few hp, not alot but every little thing helps. To REDRX good luck on your motor, hope you figure out whats wrong with it so you can have some fun with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoahDL88 Posted January 17, 2004 Share Posted January 17, 2004 again, why does your hp and torque not cross at 5252? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted January 17, 2004 Share Posted January 17, 2004 DJ, here is the intake i am running. http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9994&highlight=boost+creep That Downpipe is great, but i dont want the boost creep from it, so i have a stock DP, cut just before the end of the cat canister, and the cat is out of it. Still WAY better than stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted January 18, 2004 Share Posted January 18, 2004 best pull of 5...pics to come soon...99 whp. 141 est crank hp. Pleiades RX: 10 psi, cut airbox, glasspack exhaust, 83 whp, 118 est crank. here is pleiades pics, 1998 legacy GT, and the RX of his. http://www.subaruworld.net/dyno/dyno.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobie steve Posted January 18, 2004 Share Posted January 18, 2004 Only 184whp less then dj72 has. 99whp is pretty weak, I expected a little more. please post all of your mods, and what boost you were running. Was this on a dynojet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRX Posted January 18, 2004 Share Posted January 18, 2004 Wow - dj72 predicted 140hp. Which mods seem to give best bang for the bucks on the EA82Ts - headwork and cams? - then wind up the boost? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted January 18, 2004 Share Posted January 18, 2004 I will post a separate thread about this soon, when i get my pics up. Dynojet is BS. It is a mustang dyno. A new and freshly calibrated AWD mustang. Intake, down pipe, 9.5:1 SPFI shortblock. 100/93 octane mix fuel for the runs, about 97 octane after mix...and...a 1G BOV, rigged for recirculation. The best bang for the bucks, is: intake, exhaust from the heads back, larger turbo running 12-14 psi (or so) and a nice WRX intercooler with the BOV hooked up to recurculate. Otherwise, with the 9.5:1, cams, proting and other stuff, its really useless unless you actually tune the car with some kind of aftermarket ECU, and run competition fuel with the 9.5:1. Ive got a euro ECU, i was going to dyno with it.....but it got left at home. Again, a thread to post soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dj72 Posted January 18, 2004 Author Share Posted January 18, 2004 Well you did still hit 141hp, thats still 21hp more than stock and you haven't really done much to the car. What kind of exhaust pipe and muffler are you running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted January 18, 2004 Share Posted January 18, 2004 No muffler. Stock down pipe....but ive modify'd it. The cat canister, where it starts to form a pipe again, i cut just above that point, so the cannister has no bottom, and i gutted the cat from it. Thats my exhaust. But remember I did do the 9.5:1 SPFI shortblock, and intake. Still, its not much, but I expected more. The original turbo engine I had in the wagon was faster than this engine, and it ran on 87 pump gas. Oh well, time to play with the Euro ECU, and some stocker cams 87+ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoahDL88 Posted January 18, 2004 Share Posted January 18, 2004 The mustang chassis dyno isn't a real dyno, you can't load the engine as you can with a real dyno, it just has an inertial dampening device, aka 48" steel drums, while still acurate they can't be used to tune the engine. but WJM nice numbers, hp is all power to weight, and with good power and low weight you will do great. DJ72, why don't your hp and Torque cross at 5252? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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