gotime242 Posted June 12, 2005 Share Posted June 12, 2005 Hey guys, how everyone sunday treating ya? Well right now im in the process of taking my RX motor out. I have everything disconnected and all thats left is the tranny disconnect and the motor mounts basically. But i ahve a few questions. 1) I found the 2 obvious motor mount bolts, but arnt there 2 others? I unbolted the two that are easilys seen in the crossmember, but where are the other 2? 2) How on earth do you guys get to the lower 2 tranny bolts that hold it togeather without dropping the crossmember? 3) What did you guys do about the PS pump? My first thoughts are to disc the whole thing and lay it off to the side, but can i just disc the lines and refill it later? Or will that mess it up/get air in the lines? 4) Stupid newb subi question BUT, where is the other location to attach the engine hoist chain??? I have the one next to the alt, but where is the other? Where do i attach the other chain comming off the engine balancer? Thanks!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted June 12, 2005 Share Posted June 12, 2005 There is only 2 bolts for the motor mounts. The 2 nuts on the bottom of the bellhousing are a PITA, you need a open end wrench or remove the axles (which you need to do anyways. Just remove the PS pump and set it aside, easier that way. The other point to attach a chain to is the pitch stopper brace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoahDL88 Posted June 12, 2005 Share Posted June 12, 2005 1, there are two motor mounts, plus the dog bone on top 2 if you are talking about the two that hold the engine to the tranny, i always use a 14mm ratcheting wrench, works like a charm 3 Turbone is right 4 Turbone, right again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted June 12, 2005 Share Posted June 12, 2005 Or a 3/8 drive 14MM wobble head impact socket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotime242 Posted June 12, 2005 Author Share Posted June 12, 2005 Thanks for the help guys. Im glad to hear there are only 2 motor mount bolts, i was beginning to lose my mind. About the ps pump, how did you guys go about getting the pully off? That thing seems to be on there very tight. Graaaaaaaahhhhhhhh Those two lower tranny bell-housing bolts are OWNING me. Whoever did this last must had welded them on or something. They wont budge!!! What woudl be the easiest way to pull the axles? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest shadow Posted June 12, 2005 Share Posted June 12, 2005 You don't need to take the pulley off to remove the pump, just rotate the pulley around and use the 4 access holes to remove the bolts and the pump will come free from its bracket. 3 bolts if I remeber correctly, left right and bottom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotime242 Posted June 12, 2005 Author Share Posted June 12, 2005 You don't need to take the pulley off to remove the pump, just rotate the pulley around and use the 4 access holes to remove the bolts and the pump will come free from its bracket. 3 bolts if I remeber correctly, left right and bottom. Holy cow, thats awsome. <--Feels stupid for not thinking of that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subyrally Posted June 12, 2005 Share Posted June 12, 2005 hmm, when taking ot the lower bolts on the bell housing, i just got under the car with a ratchet and 14mmsocket. i think i useda short extention, but i didnt have to do anything special to get em out, just have to get the socket on the bolt and then attach the extention to it afterwards. i think thats how i did it over winter when i swaped out the engine in my rx. never had to pull axles or anyting, although, i will tell you that its a good idea to jack up the tranny about 2-3 inches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gravelRX Posted June 12, 2005 Share Posted June 12, 2005 Take your time on the two lower bolts. You DO NOT want to strip the heads on these. Make sure your socket or wrench is on square. I suspect when you do get them loose the engine will be stuck to the tranny.(galvonic aluminum oxidation? sp) there are dowels holding them together too. Don't get in a hurry. Back away and take a breath. I have heard of people driving a drift between the tranny and engine. way ugly. Two people and a big pipe may work. Good Luck , Jay I just reread this. Man, I sound like my dad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerFahrer Posted June 12, 2005 Share Posted June 12, 2005 Just out of curiosity, why are you yanking the motor on such a pristine car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballitch Posted June 12, 2005 Share Posted June 12, 2005 for an engine hoist lift place, i use the intake manifold to yank my motors out. there are a total of 7 bolts to take off to get motor out, minus your exhaust and wiring. 2 upper tranny bolts, 2 lower tranny bolts, 2 engine mount nuts, and the pitch stopper. jack tranny up and use motor hoist to get the weight off tranny, and move motor side-to-side motion, should free itself eventually, gonna have to break out the elbow grease. ~Josh~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotime242 Posted June 12, 2005 Author Share Posted June 12, 2005 Thanks for you help everyone. I just bought like 100+ dollars worth of seals that i want to do. Also timing belts, and so fourth. Basically a nice tune-up and stuff for preventative maintanence. Plus i do like this sort of this, its good experiance. And its just eaiser to do all the work im doing with the engine out of the car. Welp, im going to go give it another shot. Again, thank you al very much for the help. **makes a run for the pb-blaster** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoorManzImpreza Posted June 12, 2005 Share Posted June 12, 2005 my 2 cents..I always remove the bottom bolts before the top otherwise the weight of the engine makes the bottom bolts harder to remove..this won't help you acquire the second elbow joint required in one arm to access the nut nearest the turbo..lol others have already suggested means of doing that tho' ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotime242 Posted June 12, 2005 Author Share Posted June 12, 2005 Subaru - 1 Me - 0 Well, i couldnt do it today. After an hour of trying to get those bolts to budge i gave up. I didnt have one combination of tools that worked. I dont know how on earth they are on there so tight, but they just wont budge. I cant get a good socket on their either because the axle is in the way. I think im just going to have to take the axles out, i know the clutch has been changed before..so maybe they re-tourqed those bolts to 1 gazillion lbs/sq ft. Also with the ps pump..i got the bolts out, but the pump wont slide out? THe pully is still on it, and it seems like something is getting in the way. Shoudl it just slide right out through the top? Thank again for the help, sorry i am such a newb when it comes to this engine, but its my first time working on a ea82t. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted June 12, 2005 Share Posted June 12, 2005 for the PS pump, you will also want to disconnect the bracket that clamps the lines to the front corner of the motor. it should lift up out of the bracket.. i don't remember if i had to take the pulley off or not. i've never had to take axles off to get those lower trans nuts loose. but you could take this as an opportunity to check the axle boots i usually put a 14mm combination wrench on it and tap the nuts loose with a small sledgehammer, then use a 1/4" ratchet to get in there and get the bolts off. what i'll do is put the closed end of the comb. wrench on the nut with the open end sticking up, then aim a pry bar into the open end of the ratchet and tap on the end of the prybar to loosen the nut since you obviously can't get the sledgehammer oriented down there where the wrench actually is. my combination wrenches are craftsman/warranteed so i am not worried about damaging them. also i prefer two jacks for separating and reassembling the engine/trans instead of an engine hoist, because it's too hard to tell how the engine is balanced/which way it wants to lean when hung from a hoist, and it tries to spin, too. be sure you check the clutch, and the clips retaining the throwout bearing too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotime242 Posted June 25, 2005 Author Share Posted June 25, 2005 Update: I got the pass side nut off. lol The drivers side nut is from hell. And is possesed. I have been pretty lazy about working on this thing, i havnt touched it in like a week or two today i just went out and removed the ps pump (i did have to take the pully off though to remove it from the bracket). I just ran head on into the pass side lower tranny housing bolt, shreaking with my warcry, i was able to break it lose. The other side i cant get a good angle at, and its starting to strip it. I need to go get a better 14mm wrench and maybe a better sized socket, or just take the axle off (which ill probably have to do). Haha, can you believe all this effort/trouble/time over a couple nuts?...rediculous... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 25, 2005 Share Posted June 25, 2005 you can always yank the trans with the motor, pull them both at the same time. makes things very easy. unbolting motor and trans, reinstallation is all very straightforward and easy access to everything that way. very nice for mating the motor trans during installation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted June 25, 2005 Share Posted June 25, 2005 sometimes i find it easier to take the starter out to have more rom to get to the bottom bellhousing bolt on the drivers side. in extreme cases i'll pull the distributor the power steering pump i just disconnect the lines, the low pressure rubber line i'll hang a pop can on it to save it from making a mess i tie my chain to the power steering pump bracket, and the pitch bar mount on back, using the pitch bar's thru bolt to take out the motor or put it back in, jack the dranny by the front diff untul th emotor raises up and aboce the crossmember, so its mount studs come out of theit holes there are a dowel on each side of the motor, you can tap a wide flat screwdriver down in between the bellhousing to work these loose good luck and have fun! might i suggest removing the plastic timing belt covers, run the belts open so if you ever have to change a belt, water pump, oil pump, or seal, it saves you from all that work. just leave the plastic part behind the idler pulley as that is the only place the belt is exposed from behind if you question the reliability of open belts there is plenty of testemonial about them doing good, just ask somebody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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