Numbchux Posted August 3, 2008 Share Posted August 3, 2008 well.....not quite done yet, but really close. the goal was running on each motor within ~10 hours. got the engine in, fuel pump swapped out, flywheel modified, hole drilled in the firewall, new radiator in, and a bunch of other little stuff, in about 9. at which point, I plugged in the EJ harness/ECU, and got no life from the relays. at which point, I didn't feel like diagnosing any further today, so I tinkered on a few other things and called it quits. but, some pictures. The harness. This is from a '96 Impreza L (the stuff that came out of the Grimmspeed project L car, for those of you on other forums.....I did the wiring on that swap.) all the wires that needed to be spliced into the EA harness had a plug between them and the ECU. so I did all that earlier this week: and put in a working gauge cluster (also happens to be from an SPFI EA82, so the redline is in the right place)... took this at about 10am today: The car was running only moments earlier. about an hour later: laid an EJ flexplate on the EA flywheel, and shot a little quick-dry primer through it to mark where the holes needed to be modified: and went to town. took me about 45 minutes to modify those holes enough that it would bolt onto the EJ22. mrose adapter plate and XT6 clutch kit bolted to the EJ22: 2.5" hole saw through the firewall for the wiring: while I had the back of the car up to do the fuel pump, I thought I'd take a picture of the freshly sandblasted/painted backing plates on the rear disc swap: Took this picture at about 5pm..... then I hooked up the intake/MAF, the fuel lines, vacuum lines, starter and battery. then I plugged in the ECU..... then I did the heater core lines, radiator, etc. tomorrow.....it runs.....hopefully. I'm betting it's something silly like a bad ground somewhere or something. but we'll see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crockettbrat Posted August 3, 2008 Share Posted August 3, 2008 Nicely done! How many ej swaps have you done now? Mine took me 9 months, I think, from the time I got the legacy donor until I drove the brat under ej power. Lots of slacking during that time, but I also had the goal of getting my $350 purchase price for the legacy back by selling parts and scrapping everything else. I think the brat was actually undriveable for just under two months. I'm down to disassembling my ea81 for the aluminum and stripping down the remaining wires from the legacy for the copper. My five year old is doing all the work and enjoying it, so I'll let him keep some of the money. When I take it to the steel yard to recycle it I'm going to get some steel for making a swing away tire carrier for the back of the brat. Hope you get the car running tomorrow. Cheers, Daniel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted August 3, 2008 Author Share Posted August 3, 2008 this is the second that I've done myself. but I've done wiring harnesses for 3 others. my first (my loyale) took me about 2 weeks, mechanically. but because of the wiring, was about 3 months before it ran. it also helps that this car has been about 10 months in the planning/parts acquiring phase. but it's been running/drivable almost that entire time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted August 3, 2008 Share Posted August 3, 2008 Glad to see I'm not the only nut working in a dirt driveway :-p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hooziewhatsit Posted August 3, 2008 Share Posted August 3, 2008 That's what I'm aiming for when I get around to doing my EJ swap. I have at least 900 more miles before my GL hits 200k, then I'll be serious about getting everything ready. Glad to see I'm not the only nut working in a dirt driveway :-p Carpet! At least over here on the dry side of the state My downstairs room flooded a couple weeks ago, so I now have a 10'x15' piece in the driveway. Makes it sooo much easier to work on compared to gravel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amk Posted August 3, 2008 Share Posted August 3, 2008 Im doing a swap to im worried bout the wiring part, how many sensors are there in an EJ20? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crockettbrat Posted August 3, 2008 Share Posted August 3, 2008 Im doing a swap to im worried bout the wiring part, how many sensors are there in an EJ20? I dont know how many sensors there are on the EJ20, but I just finished my swap and am an idiot when it comes to electricity, and mine worked. I would highly recommend that you spend time with the pages of the service manual that show the pins on the ECU and what electrical signals they are supposed to have. It will list all the sensors that send info to the ECU, so you will know what to keep and what to get rid of. Do this while actually looking at the ECU and find all these wires and mark them. You will know what wires are what before you start cutting down the harness. Of course I didn't do this until after I had cut my harness and plugged it in and it didn't work. It did work in the end, but my understanding of the harness came together quickly after going through the pins on the back of the ECU and seeing what signals were needed. I really was just guessing when I cut my harness and after actually reading through the manual I thought how much easier it would have been if I had read through the info first. There were several things that I hadn't cut out that I didn't need and removing them reduced the clutter. Good luck with the swap. Daniel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted August 3, 2008 Author Share Posted August 3, 2008 it runs when I hooked up the harness, I hooked my switched power to the neutral switch on the ECU.....redid that, and the relays clicked on, then splice in the fuel pump wire, turned the key, and it fired right up (PCV and IAC weren't hooked up, so massive post-MAF intake leaks, so it didn't run well, or for long....but it ran). video to come. finished the radiator hoses, filled the radiator, put the exhaust on and wired in the front 02 sensor (will need a different plug for the rear.....might have something around but I didn't see anything). I'll also need to get an alternator plug, as the alternator I got with the motor doesn't match...might be off an RS. but, moved it around under it's own power. the speedometer started to freak out just from rolling around the driveway, so my "working" cluster might not be so working......crap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted August 3, 2008 Share Posted August 3, 2008 that's awesome. Nice work. I can't believe I didn't think of the [hole saw through the firewall] trick. If I ever do another swap, or redo the wiring in mine, I'll do it that way. Let's see some more pics of the beast too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crockettbrat Posted August 4, 2008 Share Posted August 4, 2008 Right On! I understand your addiction! I'm looking for a hatchback now. Dont tell the mrs.! Daniel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted August 4, 2008 Share Posted August 4, 2008 When I did my swap, I holesawed the fire wall right in the spare tire well. After I put it all together, used a bunch of sillicone caulking to seal around the wires. My swap turned out a bit hack... especially after the SuperMultipleJunction got caught behind my gas pedal and caught fire. It's a few years on now and runs good with no codes other than the neutral switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted August 4, 2008 Author Share Posted August 4, 2008 well, my loyale is using gen-1 legacy wiring, which comes through the inner fender quite nicely. but the impreza wiring plugs in on the passenger side of the bellhousing. a 2.5" hole fits the existing rubber boot around the harness. so it's nicely sealed and looks very factory (well....it will once I get the wires wrapped with some loom and tape). I'll take some closeup pics tomorrow. I asked about this like 8 months ago, and I believe it was kingbobdole who suggested the hole saw idea, as that's what he did on his RX. so don't give me the credit. video is uploading.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s'ko Posted August 4, 2008 Share Posted August 4, 2008 Nice work. BW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwi subbie Posted August 4, 2008 Share Posted August 4, 2008 nice work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted August 4, 2008 Author Share Posted August 4, 2008 video: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarutex Posted August 4, 2008 Share Posted August 4, 2008 ANIMAL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted August 5, 2008 Share Posted August 5, 2008 dang, I need some borlas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zukiru Posted August 5, 2008 Share Posted August 5, 2008 thanks for that harness pic up there! good work on this! nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted August 5, 2008 Author Share Posted August 5, 2008 dang, I need some borlas. this one doesn't have borlas......my loyale does. the '86 just has stock header and 2 cats right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted August 5, 2008 Author Share Posted August 5, 2008 took it for a drive around the block this morning........mmmmmmmmmmm......speedy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subyrally Posted August 5, 2008 Share Posted August 5, 2008 very nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 yeah, i watched the borla headers video and assumed it was the same car. this one doesn't have borlas......my loyale does. the '86 just has stock header and 2 cats right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted August 7, 2008 Author Share Posted August 7, 2008 alright....drove it to work today. good news: the tank was very low, and had no stumbling issues (this car was carbed.....). then I put 12 gallons in it, and drove to work. bad news: when I got there, it proceeded to puke gas out of the vent line (no carbon canister yet...). This is extremely strange, and I don't have any idea where to start with the diagnosing of this problem. all I know, is loosening the gas cap a touch relieved the pressure and got it to stop. any ideas? I looked at some of the diagrams for these vent lines in the Chiltons manual....but that really didn't help :-\ also, the alternator doesn't work.....I'm not sure if it's the wiring, or the unit itself. it's a '99 RS alt, and the first car I found in the junkyard with a matching plug was an '00 Outback (mfr'd 8/00....might have been an '01). I think the LR wire is for the voltage regulator, and needs fused 12v+, and the BY is for the light (not using...). have definite continuity between the stud and the + batt terminal. I'm stumped...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shuffbag Posted August 7, 2008 Share Posted August 7, 2008 i'm unsure about rules and regulations where your at, but i did away with my carbon canister and vent system. i only have 2 fuel lines delivery/return and don't have the purge system connected (mainly because i don't have that part of the loom) and it runs fine:grin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhise Posted August 7, 2008 Share Posted August 7, 2008 Maybe the lines on the fuel separator are a bit gummed up from sitting so long. I'm pretty sure my loyale had sat for a long while before I got it and had some issues with pressure building up in the tank for a while and they eventually went away on its own. Once you burn some gas out of the tank maybe you could blow out the little lines behind the filler pipe on the tank. One goes to the top of the separator and the other is at the bottom of the separator draining back into the tank. This is assuming the evap system is the same as the loyale and assuming those lines aren't too crusty to get loose w/o breaking something, lol. Or we can do what I did and just let the gas eventually dissolve whatever crud is causing the pressure. bad news: when I got there, it proceeded to puke gas out of the vent line (no carbon canister yet...). This is extremely strange, and I don't have any idea where to start with the diagnosing of this problem. all I know, is loosening the gas cap a touch relieved the pressure and got it to stop. any ideas? I looked at some of the diagrams for these vent lines in the Chiltons manual....but that really didn't help :-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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