May 1, 201213 yr yeah, weird tho is has an electric choke. wait no DGAV, its stamepd on the carb body. DGEV is with Electric Choke. DGAV is Water Choke.
May 1, 201213 yr changed my airfilter today. used a intake pipe from a 94 (i think?) legacy, got a cone filter from the store, and used a fabric reinforced adhesive backed adjustable filter adapter () to hold the filter on. the difference was pretty amazing, guess my old filter was worse shape than it looked. changed the filter in the 02 outback as well. the one in that car was pretty nasty! we got this car 1 yr ago from a dealer who put new brakes and tires on it. i guess a tune up was too much extra work? i'd rather have the tune up than new tires.. :/ Edited May 1, 201213 yr by xbeerd
May 1, 201213 yr DGEV is with Electric Choke. DGAV is Water Choke. I Already wrote that to Him: As you wrote, it really says "DGAV" on the carb's Body, which means that it originally came factory with Water Choke, so if it has an Electric Choke, that electric choke must be an addition, because Weber uses the "DGAV" Nomenclature for those Carbs that comes factory with Water Choke and "DGEV" for those who comes factory with Electric choke. Kind Regards.
May 1, 201213 yr I Already wrote that to Him: ya we decided that somebody must have converted it. i am curious though to the right of the electric choke, what is that other electrical connection?
May 1, 201213 yr Idasho is Right, and you're Lucky to have that already fitted to the Weber, 'cos it was somehow an "Option" and usually people deal with Dieseling in certain circunstances, or install one aftermarket. Kind Regards.
May 2, 201213 yr Idasho is Right, and you're Lucky to have that already fitted to the Weber, 'cos it was somehow an "Option" and usually people deal with Dieseling in certain circunstances, or install one aftermarket. Kind Regards. so is it worth hooking up? what does it, do ( besides shut off the fuel ) i mean how does it work?
May 2, 201213 yr so is it worth hooking up? ... Yes, if you don't connect it to a Positive (+) Source, it will Never Open, so the Engine will Never Start due to the Lack of Fuel: it Prevents Fuel to Come. But the sH¡tachi Carb has that Solenoid too... So you Only Need to Use the Wire for it and Plug it to the Weber's Solenoid. ...how does it work? If it Doesn't Receive the (+) imput = Closed. (ignition Off) With the Positive imput, it will be = Open. (ignition On) Kind Regards.
May 2, 201213 yr Yes, if you don't connect it to a Positive (+) Source, it will Never Open, so the Engine will Never Start due to the Lack of Fuel: it Prevents Fuel to Come. But the sH¡tachi Carb has that Solenoid too... So you Only Need to Use the Wire for it and Plug it to the Weber's Solenoid. If it Doesn't Receive the (+) imput = Closed. (ignition Off) With the Positive imput, it will be = Open. (ignition On) Kind Regards. so what happens if there is no solenoid, you said it was an option on a weber so do the carbs with out it have problems?
May 2, 201213 yr Dieseling or Engine run-on is a condition that can occur in spark plug, gasoline powered engines, whereby the engine keeps running for a short period after being turned off, due to fuel igniting without a spark. "Clark, why is it still running?" "Oh, honey, all new cars do that!" "Think you hate it now, wait till you drive it!" That solenoid eliminates this occurrence.
May 2, 201213 yr lets see.... buttoned my car up, bled the brakes, torqued EVERTHING, figured i might as well paint the drums while the rear tires were off ( sorry no pics ) so i did that and took it on a drive expirimented with the shifting curve, shifting @ 5000 sound good if i really want it to pull. it winds out at about 5200, but it pulls really well at about 4600 ish in the lower gears. i tried to climb this big rump roast hill ( 25-30 degrees, 100 yards ) started to power hop at the top, and i didnt want to break an axle shaft so i put it in 4wd. the craptachi is REALLY crappy cause now that i think of it my subie is starving for some oxygen. soon to do, rear suspension, weber swap, and cap and rotor, oil change+seafoam!
May 2, 201213 yr Replaced the alternator under warranty from AZ yesterday. The old one was from AZ and installed in 2007 (previous to this was the original purchase from AZ in 1999). The flickering of lights that I noted upon installation of the fused positive cable last week-end, has gone away. Now to continue to work on the low voltage problem. The old alternator failed with lights, AC on during in-car testing, but passed on the bench. The replacement alternator came with a double pulley, but it clears my AC drive and hence I did not swap it out. I will pull my instrument cluster etc. to further narrow down my low (in-cab) voltage problems. Separately, have been reading up on the Maxima swap. Does AC Delco make decent new alternators? I can get a new AC Delco Maxima alternator for a good price. However, need to fix the voltage issues first. The fused positive cable from the alternator to the battery that I installed this past weekend has certainly improved electrical performance to a small extent. This is evident with a slight increase in in-cab voltage reading, better idle quality with lights and AC on and no tendency to cut-off randomly, in the past two days.
May 2, 201213 yr :banana:lets see i have done my o2 sensor hood (thanx rob) and did my tps and yeah now just to do the 5 speed swap lol:banana:
May 3, 201213 yr ya we decided that somebody must have converted it. i am curious though to the right of the electric choke, what is that other electrical connection? so is that vacume port under the electronic choke for the pcv? seems a little small...
May 3, 201213 yr Just fixed my pedal box. Welded some angle iron in there to fix it good. Well, I didn't, my dad wouldn't let me use his welder, but he tacked in some angle iron :-p I rattled it some weird shiny crap paint we had laying around. I'll post pix in the AM. Goodnight all! Twitch
May 3, 201213 yr Pulled a few more parts off the '92 parts Wagon, including the fairly new gas tank. Bonus.... Rolled it out of the garage. Time to fire up the cutting torch..
May 3, 201213 yr ...I'll post pix in the AM.Goodnight all!... Good Night too... and Yes, Pics Please! so is that vacume port under the electronic choke for the pcv? seems a little small... There should be Two 3/16 Vacuum Ports in the Weber's Front, the one at the Right is for the Distribuitor's Vacuum Advance, the one at the Left is for the EGR. More info ~► Here. Kind Regards.
May 3, 201213 yr Good Night too... and Yes, Pics Please! There should be Two 3/16 Vacuum Ports in the Weber's Front, the one at the Right is for the Distribuitor's Vacuum Advance, the one at the Left is for the EGR. More info ~► Here. Kind Regards. ok so if there is only one like in my case then can i tee the vacuum advance, or should i just use one of the other many unused vacume ports on the intake for the vacuum advance.
May 3, 201213 yr ok so if there is only one like in my case then can i tee the vacuum advance, or should i just use one of the other many unused vacume ports on the intake for the vacuum advance. The circled one is the EGR port. Remove the screw and attach the hose from that to the EGR.
May 3, 201213 yr ok so if there is only one like in my case... No, your Weber has Two vacuum ports in front, but the one on the Left is Closed with a Screw, as Subynut already wrote; you can remove that screw to use it on the EGR. ...or should i just use one of the other many unused vacume ports on the intake for the vacuum advance... Never use a Vacuum port in the intake for a Vacuum advance on the Distribuitor, because the Vacuum provided by the Carburetor is somehow "Progressive" and the Vacuum Provided by the intake is "Permanent" and will be too Strong for the Rubber on the advance and could damage it... also since it is permanent, you'll Loose the Advance feature and the Ignition Timin' will be too much advanced. ...can i tee the vacuum advance... Nope, is not necesary. Kind Regards.
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