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Attn: EA82T Nerds - Project RX runs!
Posted 17 March 2004 - 05:35 PM
Here's whats been done. I resealed the engine and put some freshly rebuilt gen2 heads on it. Some Delta cams. Have the spider intake on. A WRX intercooler, and a WRX turbo. It also got a new custom fuel system.
Now, i know i'm going to get a lot of questions on this I know. I'll do my best to explain everything. But for now, I have to get back to work!
Posted 17 March 2004 - 05:58 PM
Posted 17 March 2004 - 08:03 PM
tell us more about your fuel system...
I'm building an EA82T with many of the mods you've been working on. Delta cams, wrx turbo, ic, downpipe, bov, light flywheel. etc.
The motor will be in the rig soon and I'm already thinking the fuel delivery system is going to be the week link. I'm really interested in what you've found with your motor
btw, nice exhaust, is that an axle-forward system
Posted 17 March 2004 - 08:54 PM
Posted 17 March 2004 - 10:37 PM
lookin very nice, makes me wish i still had mine.........that is an ej22t right?
Posted 17 March 2004 - 11:24 PM
The only think i would change is the inlet line routing.
You want to have both fuel rails exactly the same length away from the Inlet, and the FPR.
On your inlet you have about 6 inches of hose to the driver's side rail, and about 2 feet to the pass side rail. these need to be equal.
same with the lines to the FPR, you have about 6 inches from the driver's side rail, and about 2 feet from the pass side rail.
The passangers side cylinders will run leaner because of this.
Looks good apart from that.
the plastic dryer tube on the turbo inlet won't last long though.
I like the adjustable wastegate accuator rod. You have it set a little open so you don't make as much boost??
Posted 17 March 2004 - 11:41 PM
Fuel System: AN-6 hose and fittings. SX performance rising rate fuel pressure regulator. VDO pressure gauge. Custom made aluminium fuel rails courtesy of the US navy.
Fuel rails were a pain to make. In fact, i'm still having a bit of a leaking problem, going to fix that this week. Currently running 30psi as per factory.
Only boosting to 5-6psi (stock WRX wastegate setting) right now. Till I get everything sorted out. Its running slightly rich... even without turning up the pressure past stock.
The exhaust has been finished. Had a shop run 2.5" from that flange out the back. No muffler. So the system is (from front to back) Stock WRX DP, Stock WRX cat, Stock WRX midpipe, custom 2.5" straight pipe.
Currently looking for a nice silicone or rubber tight 90 degree to put on the turbo inlet. Air vent hose is getting me by until I find the right piece. So far I have a couple of options, but they are $$$.
Right now, the car feels a little slower to 2500-2700rpm than it was before. But once boost hits its crazy. 5psi on this turbo and cams feel a bit faster than it did stock.
Sidewayz: I did a lot of research into the fuel system. And, i found as many sources saying equal distance, as I did saying doesn't matter. If you look at the WRX guys, they are seldom close to being equadistant like my setup. I don't forsee a problem until I start to push major pressure.
Posted 17 March 2004 - 11:47 PM
and what?? 5-6 PSI is stock WRX boost spring...that's weird man.
I dunno about down there, But i would look for the 4 Ply Silicone stuff from Vibrant Performance.
You can get Silicone elbows, couplers, hose cheap. I think a 90 Degree bend is like 50 bucks up here (cdn $). Come in a pile of different colors, and you seriously can't tell the difference from Samco crap.
Look up Vibrant Performance
Short of that, talk nice to the guy at Napa, and he'll let you go back and look through their rad hose section. You'll be amazed at what you find back there.
And dude.. you are going to want to crank that fuel pressure. It is the only way we can keep pistons in the things for more than 2 weekends when we ice race. I know that you guys can drive on the street for years and not have a problem. Just long term. it'll get to it. I'll show you the blocks and pistons.
We run around 45 PSI at idle. It won't idle well, and backfires nicely, but we've also been running the same motor for over a year, and haven't blown it up.
Posted 18 March 2004 - 01:14 AM
Also, how bad is the leak on those fuel rails? I know you're sick of hearing it, but another coat of that gray stuff and I bet you'd be good to go
Posted 18 March 2004 - 10:44 AM
prolly not what your looking for
Posted 18 March 2004 - 12:16 PM
btw, i got my new brakes! they are sweet.
Posted 18 March 2004 - 02:43 PM
Makes me feel sad about my own now......
Posted 18 March 2004 - 05:53 PM
meet me half way (missouri?) and we'll sit down and share secrets sometime?
Posted 18 March 2004 - 08:50 PM
I've got the same size gauge and mounted two of them between the seats in the console. Looks pretty good, but as I suspected, they are not as easy to read as I had hoped, especially when your trying to get down the gravel/dirt with haste.
In my parts wagon (88 Turbo) I've disasembled the dash and believe there is enough room to the left of the instrument cluster where the rear window defogger is located to mount two gauges.
The depth is there, but I think the bezels would be just a hair to big for the spot. And then where do I put the rear defogger button.
Yours seems to be placed well for reading and not having to look into the ashtray area while doing the dirt boogie probably is a plus, eh?
Regards and again, sharp car.
Posted 19 March 2004 - 01:13 PM
Posted 19 March 2004 - 11:08 PM
First go was just the fittings in the rail. Second time I took them out and put in some teflon tape. Still leaked. Then I threw on some epoxy around the edges. Still leaked.
Just today I pulled apart the old rails. Got $80 worth of new fittings. Retapped the holes to clean the threads up. Then applied epoxy to the threads of the fittings prior to being put in. Hopefully this willl work. I can't afford to keep having the stupid pipe thread not work and not seal.
Seems a mighty bit retarded that PIPE THREAD isn't sealing.
Posted 20 March 2004 - 10:18 AM
Does the turbo seem to be spooling OK, at the right RPM?
I'm interested to hear how the power is after you get every thing dialed in. Should be a decent gain with the turbo and cams.
Speaking of cams, does it idle normaly?
BTW...Andy said spittle...hehe
Posted 20 March 2004 - 05:31 PM
or even mig if they have the right stuff to weld aluminum
try making new rails out of stainless or some other harder material than aluminum it will hold the threads better and seal better
Posted 20 March 2004 - 09:50 PM
Posted 21 March 2004 - 03:40 PM
I finally solved the problem. Before putting the new fittings in to the rail, i coated the threads in metal epoxy (JB Weld...). Then inserted them, tightened them down, and let cure for 24 hours.
Ran the car last night, no leaks!
I talked to that company about making me some rails... but the price was a bit excessive. The guy even reccomended I do it myself.
Turbo spools good. Right around 3400 I have full boost. This should come down when i put in the boost controller. Hopefully around 3000.
Seems like now I have new issues to look at. Doesn't like to stay in 4th gear. Its popping out. Think its probally time for new tranny mounts.
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