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I did some more digging and it's apparently just an indication of what transmission and emissions system the ECU is set up for. It's a non-trouble code. :]

The only “code” you should have is the one that states what market it was sold in. Eg here in Australia we have seven short flashes from memory. In my experience without starting the engine you shouldn’t have any codes to begin with.

Apologies, I thought all bajas were turbo for some reason. I’ve only ever seen one in person when I was in the states in 2009, even then that was in traffic on the Las Vegas strip so not an up close for a good look over it. I’m out of ideas. If the re-ring was done properly I can’t see where it would be potentially sucking oil in to be smokey and consume oil. We’re all rings replaced and were they gapped correctly?

The cylinder head compression tell you whether you need new velpro gaskets. Less than 140 psi and you should replace. Wheel bearings can be stuffed to the max with synthetic grease every time you replace a cv joint and you will go forever on them. The water pump has a special height to the pulley so pay attention to that. You have periodically make sure the timing belts are tight by loosening the two bolts for each and allowing the springs to tighten up the belt. Do it every 5000 miles. The water pump has a hole in the top and a hole in the bottom. Plug the top hole up with a gasket maker otherwise dirt will get to the bearings and you will be back to replacing it every 15,000 to 25,000 miles, instead of 40,000 or more. Rebuilt CV axles last 200,000 miles from O'Reillys. Don't waste your rebooting them because they are going to start clicking soon thereafter. Nowadays, the only suppliers for cables is the aftermarket parts from your favorite parts store. Subaru stopped making them. U-pull-it has lots of parts, when you can find the cars there. But Facebook is your best place to find a car that you can get parts off of.

Can I get a link to where you got it? I looked up PEC Australia and can't find the struts part. Please I'm desperate for these font struts.

Another bit of info. We used custom made headgaskets from Cometic. Cant remember the exact thickness, but they were made thicker for future NA/T application.

I have a Subaru order in for a rad cap and some other cooling components. The water pump is on back order, potentially on it's way to being discontinued instead of restocked. I'm going to check back in with the dealership tomorrow and see what's backordered and what isn't. I occasionally do drive out that direction, actually had a friend move out there last year. Goal is to get the cooling system resolved and install the weber carb kit I have on the shelf. Then if I can get the brakes working I'll take it for a lap around the block.

My only casualty was a missing nylock nut in the box that ripped apart.

Engine's in, most of the small bits and bobs are done. Not out of the woods yet. Tonight I was using the test connector trick to run my fuel pump. I wanted to prime the system and check my fuel lines for leaks before I add a hot running engine to the equation. When I was priming the system, I noticed the injector was firing. Is this normal? I knew when you have all 3 test connectors (SPFI engine) connected, it ran the fuel pump. However I don't know if the injector firing at the same time is normal or not. Additionally I pulled the codes while I was at it and I only got code 5. I believe I remember reading somewhere that this is one of those codes that means nothing and goes away when the engine fires up. It's not mentioned in the FSM. Any ideas on what specifically this code means? Is it just an indication of what "mode" the ECU is in? Like it's saying "this is an SPFI engine with a manual transmission". Thanks :]

I think so; under threshold.

For testing, unplug the pcv hose to the intake and block off the port. That way you can rule out pcv related oil consumption. Did you have pictures of the cylinder walls before replacing the rings? If it was smooth and lost the crosshatching, chances are the new rings won't break in properly.

what was your catalytic code? was it the P0420

Sold my '89 parts wagon roughly three plus years ago. Via a Denver craigslist ad, yep it took forever. Young man from Ruidoso came down and bought both the Wagon, and the spare 49K mile EA-82 engine assembly in two separate trips. Don't recall his name, possibly "Wyatt" but he's Subaru Kid to me. I could see if I have his contact information in one of my older phones. Am guessing he's on Social Media, am not on those platforms yet.

From what I'd heard, the evap. canister does not affect performance. However, I replaced it on my 2002 Forester as I've been living with the codes for a long time, but needed to pass emissions here in CT. Now both the evap. canister code and the catalytic converter code are off. Are these affecting each other? I fixed one and both codes came off. I got it on Amazon for around $30.

Figured you'd see this type of behavior over here in New Mexico. Not in Texas. I've actually had reasonably decent to good DMV service here. Although it's gotten very difficult to "retitle" old cars that have dropped out of the database. I have an assortment of NEW engine service parts - gaskets, Timing Belts, hoses, rad cap, etc for these era cars. Also reposted some other parts I still have earlier today to include Rotor/front Hub assemblies, and Two piece driveshaft. Am fairly close - 300 miles West of you so if youre' interested in anything, let me know. Dave S. las Cruces NM

Bought me an 86 10 dash and gonna try my best to get it to work in my 88 GL, I've got a pin out and had an engineer take a peek over it, said it's doable supposedly, I'll update when it arrives. Hope to get the temp gauge to work. Not sure when I'm going to do with the height control gauge.

Sorry I misinterpreted what you were saying. And yes, you’re right about what I was saying with the first quoted paragraph above. I get that the OP wants to use what he’s got, however I think this is not possible without other parts. The time and effort to machine bits to make them fit the Single range AWD gear to make it a dual range would be better spent earning the coin to import the parts that will make it happen.

It smokes a fair bit out of the oil filler but i didn't notice any blow by maybe a tiny bit at idle but goes away however the smoke goes up with rpm

Ahh, no holes. Sorry, dealing with too many later models here. Yikes! Yeah not much else other than what you mentioned. Remove the brake adjuster nuts and let it float inside while you strike a drift against the backside of the drum. This draws a memory. Good luck. Let us know how you tricked it into removing itself.

Just replaced the temp sensor, no change. Everything is from a 92 Legacy with original parts, with a stock 5spd D/R trans I might take another look at the return line

any smoke coming out the oil filler pipe?

Yeah howdy! There are no holes in the face of it. The backing plate hides the back of the drum so no puller will fit there. The brat didn't move for 6 or 7 yrs and that wheel sunk into the dirt. One extreme way is to unbolt all the brake mounting nuts and beat the whole assembly off. I had intended to take it to my mechanic but it won't roll. I will look into the old forums, glad you are still around.

Hi Dave, yeah I’m still kicking. Indeed many or most bailed out to face boob. It’s not so bad as long as you’re like us old guys and don’t get involved with anything other than cars. If you dare to sigh in there’s a couple dedicated groups for us dinosaurs. Old School Subaru and 4x140 or GTFO , those two are where I’ll be found. I created a pre-74 Subaru but it’s very quiet. Just a place for the very early 1100s 1300s and the first 1400 folks to exchange information. About that drum, geez, I thought you were near the desert. Either way wow that one sounds unusual. Not much I’m going to add at this time other that the usual get that 10lb sledge out or keep heating and spraying. Maybe get some strong bolts and send them in through the drum with those holes they leave for the tool?

Hi folks. I am long time gone from the forum but I really am going to try and get the brat rolling. Driver side rear drum is frozen tight. I tried the obvious things but no go. The square drive shoe adjuster is frozen tight. The wheel lugs and axle nut is off, and pb blasted the bolts and axle. I don't do face book but wondered if most people go that way now adays. Also Hi Moosens long time no see.

Its naturaly aspirated no turbo but I did check the pcv system and replace all parts of it intake seams to be dry