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Or add to the lift! Drop the subframe.

The trip computer beep also comes on when your power steering fluid is very low.

Stuff all the synthetic grease into the old bearings that you can. You might use some 2000 grit sandpaper and see what you can take off on the CV axle.

Lower the lift. Problem solved.

Helicoils are a joke. The solid steel inserts, by whatever brand, and with thread lock on them are the only way to go. Don't over drill the hole and it is better to be too shallow and grind off the excess, than too deep and spring a leak.

Why not just get an 88 distributor from Johns Subaru in Gaston Oregon? The brains in them, burn out every 100k or so. In my 86 GL10, there are two relay switches beneath the dash, that can cause the engine to not fire. They don't last forever, and should be replaced when it is in your garage, instead of paying for a tow off of some mountain top. The black fusible link also allows the engine to run. Mine went out on some back road in BC. The condensor/thingamajig that runs from the coil to the engine ground, can blow and not allow the engine to run. Coils can blow and should produce 12 volts. A cracked distributor cap may also cause the engine to quit, like it did with mine on a snowy pass at 15deg F in Colorado. Corroded fuel injector connectors will cause problems, particularly with the #1 cylinder. The black box over your knees can go out. The engine to body ground can get overheated, brittle and lose it's ability to pass sufficient current to run the engine. That happens at the screw to the body. Just wait until your clutch cable goes out. You don't know what problems are until you have to replace a clutch cable.

Yes, this is right question you ask, if the purge is non-operating, and closed tightly, as I think, then why would capping the manifold port make any difference. I’ll be able to get the brat back in about a week.

You may get more feedback over here: NASIOC

Now I guess I’ll have to build a big box over the bed. It’ll be stocked with spares. Oh wait, first I need a Baja. Jim, you in Weston these days? If you’re bored in that retirement of yours I can keep you busy. ( big grin ) Big purge in process. Serious reduction of stock. And whatever else we really don’t need. Storage unit number two must go. Hey , you guys don’t forget my questions above.

To those wondering about tank treatment and fuel compatibility Moyer claims theirs is good for all contemporary fuels. I used my tank for a little over a year then removed it because the new owner is making the wagon electric. So I kept that tank and it looks like the day I got it back on the inside, and out. Enjoy !

Whenever a severe fuel tank issue comes up i offer that I sent mine Moyer in PA They have their own non epoxy patented formula they use after completely removing all rust snd they’ll do any repairs as needed. Mine was from a 79 4wd wagon same tank as a Brat. It cost $500 total with shipping. The tank looks bulletproof and should last through my kids lives. Ok $500 isn’t for everyone so use one of the many methods. But from what you’ve described it seems severe to me. Folks have done motorcycle tanks in cement mixers with the tank wrapped in moving blankets. Think up your own method or research. Lots of folks have used nuts n bolts and cover the holes - after adding some solution like gasoline, swish it around but with a car tank thats quite the chore. So maybe something similar to the cement mixer method. I own a condo and it was better for me to open the wallet. Good luck. pardon any typos, phone is being unkind. Moyer: http://www.gas-tank.com Unsecure site it says but they’re fine and you can bet if you do business with them it’ll be secure. Nice people on the phone too.

If you're building a "road hugger", start with a cheese wedge! I've never actually seen the EA82 3-door in person, only pictures... I think they were pretty rare. I'd put a dual range in anything I built, but I may not be everyone.

Thanks for the responses. I think it's probably the centre bearing on the two section drive shaft, or the transfer box to the rear wheels. If I could find a replacement for that centre bearing and rubber bushing I would replace but I have not succeeded in finding one. So if I could find a replacement for the power transfer solinoid and if i could replace it easily I would do that so I could drive it FWD only. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again!

I’d say the most effective way would be tank out and clean with whatever method of choice. You could source a good, clean tank, put that in and be done with it too.

DOHC EJs fit in an L series engine bay without chassis rail mods. The dual range gearbox is only good if you’re going offroad - or might have situations where towing up an incline requires traction and “leverage”. If you’re building a road hugger, I’d go with the AWD box for better traction under acceleration.

Got my strut from PEC Australia today. Looks good. If you absolutely need front struts, they have em. No clue on how long their inventory will last though. :]

IIRC, the ecu pinout table in the FSM is wrong, and you need to *not* ground the pin if it's a manual. Does the DOHC even fit in the frame rails on an 89 hatch? I know it doesn't on an 84. The wiring isn't bad. Takes a weekend if you're good with a wiring diagram. The mechanical aspects of the wiring (mounting the computer, getting the harness to it, etc) takes as long as the actual wiring part. I'd suggest keeping with an EA82 transmission, and using a bellhousing adapter and redrilled flywheel. The 5-speed dual-range is pretty much the ideal old gen transmission. Sticking with it will be direct bolt in (no messing with mounts, linkage, driveshaft, etc), and you get low range! There's several people who make the adapters, like https://awdadventure.com/products/ea-ej-adapter-plate . Sticking with an EA82 tranny will be a much faster swap, and having low range is very, very nice.

So, my 86 XT has eaten two fuel pumps now, and quite a few fuel filters because of vanish still sitting in the tank. The tank doesn't appear to be rusty in any way, which is great, but the poor thing had been parked for 10-13 years, with about a 1/8th of a tank of gas, which I can only assume has turned into a thick layer of gunk on the bottom of the tank. I did drain out that gas and tried to flush out all the old stuff but that clearly didn't do the trick. I've seen a million recommendations online about cleaning varnish out of a tank but what have people here had the most success with? Should I just throw some fuel treatment or seaform or something and let it sit for a couple of days, or should I just take the whole tank out and get shaking it with vinegar and rocks? I would hate to take the tank out, only because I know how annoying it can be, but I guess it would be just as annoying to keep buying fuel filters 😆.

And in the back of it too

Very clever. So rather than continue to reduce your hoarded inventory of Subie parts, you intend on hiding it in plain sight from your wife in the form of a Baja?

You need an AWD dual range box to achieve what you’re wanting to do. The single range AWD gearbox is a solid upper shaft and the bottom lay shaft is a tube that has the front pinion shaft run through it. AFAIK the dual range 4wd gearbox uses a setup with the drive gears mounted on the pinion shaft for the front diff. I know more about the AWD L series box with the locking centre diff than the specifics on the dual range 4wd pinion shaft setup as I’ve not pulled that section apart. We’re lucky in Oz because our market came with dual range AWD gearboxes right into the late naughties. These parts are somewhat interchangeable with that locking centre diff gearbox you have. For example: my L series “Ruby Scoo” runs a bastardised locking AWD gearbox with the following setup: - phase 2 front cases with matching drive gearsets - L series 1.59:1 low range - L series locking centre diff pinion shaft - modified for 4.111:1 diff ratio - matching rear locking centre diff housing, shift linkages and tailshaft - oil “feeders” over the low range gearset to lubricate and keep cool on long climbs. The key is a phase 1 dual range AWD gearset - if you manage to score one of these it will fit into your L series front cases. The low range hub internally will need a small amount of machining to fit the EJ upper gearset shaft. There are threads around that explain this. Your biggest hurdle is the EH dual range gearbox/gearset if you’re in the states.

Ooh good questions. OBDI or OBDII - it doesn’t matter really - the wiring cut down is basically the same. Find the FsM that matches the engine and ECU to get the wiring diagrams and work out what’s what. Sometimes the Haynes manual will have a good pinout of the ecu with accurate wire colours too. The auto EJ22 can be told it’s a manual and work as such. You need to ground a certain set of pins at the ECU to “tell” it that it’s a manual… The EJ22 is bullet proof. Gen1s are non interference, Gen2s are interference. The difference is hydraulic lifters (gen1) and roller rockers (gen2). The EJ25 - it depends on which model. I’d avoid the DOHC EJ25D. But I’d do the EJ251 any day. Replace the head gaskets with the STi turbo EJ25 MLS gaskets and never look back. The EJ251 is a wicked engine with a flat torque curve through the rev range. It just feels like it keeps pulling! I know as I daily a Gen3 RX Liberty with the EJ251 and manual. I didn’t think the L series coupes came with a 4 speed, only the MY hatch - but this model runs an EA81 and I don’t believe they were still building them in ‘89. Gearbox will need custom mounts, probably need shift linkage mods and a custom tailshaft if you can’t work out a combination from OEM parts. I also recommend getting a donor vehicle that’s running. This way you know you have everything you need. Unless you know what you’re doing I don’t recommend mix and matching engines and ECU/wiring looms. On that note, the “rule” is phase 1 sticks with phase 1 engine management and vice versa with phase 2 gear; generally the ECU, wiring loom and intake manifold need to be a match and need to be same phase as the engine phase being used. Hope this helps

That purge control solenoid is probably faulty. Best to test the way the workshop manual says to - which is probably with ohms rather than voltage. The question still remains - why does blocking the purge control line allow the engine to run properly? Is there another version already on the wagon so it’s sucking from atmosphere rather than the tank? Probably need to work out what’s different with the fuel system between the two systems this engine was run with. That will be difficult since the original one is no more.

I’ve never been too crazy about the Baja but I’m thinking I might as well dive in. We already own a handful of 2000-04 Legacys. I am aware they’re all the same platform but never really looked to close at some details. Maybe you can help. Swap over parts from a wagon or sedan that I am just looking to confirm would easily exchange: Headlights? Legacy or Outback - we have both Exhaust ? Is that a copy of the wagon? And are the Baja fuel tanks their own or shared with wagon? Anything else you think it please let me know like dashboard, controls, etc. Thanks !

Bump since I edited the title. Still love my tank. Still feel it’s a great investment. If you’re up north or east of the plains condensation can be a killer. Never cleaned the top of the tank off? Then you’re due for pinholes. When that time comes check out Moyer. No, they didn’t pay me.