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Thanks for your reply azdave! No, the connection stays open through the whole sweep. Thanks for the offer to bench test it. What would that involve? Just wondering if, with guidance, it's something I could do. The FSM Fuel Pump Circuit diagram contains this section on the TPS. I do have a good multimeter. Thanks again!

I don't see what you could have done wrong if all your readings were as you say. It a simple potentiometer setup with an on/off switch on the side to let the ECU positively know when the throttle is in the full idle position. If you currently have no continuity between pins B&D, unlike when you tested it new, that would indicate that the carbon trace on the board had burned in half or was separated somehow. If you now connect the Ohm meter between pins B &C and then turn the shaft from stop to stop, do you ever measure anything but an open connection as the wiper sweeps around the carbon trace? The 5 volt signal should not be able to supply enough current to damage the sensor. Even if that supply wire measured 12 volts, it would barely generate 0.003 amps (0.04 watts) which should easily be handled by the carbon wiper. I don't know what kind of time schedule you are under but I can offer to bench test the TPS and see if I can determine what failed. Not much to lose except for the time to mail it back and forth and the postage cost. I myself would not risk another new TPS until I had a better idea what failed.

I've been reading some more and it sounds like a BFH is the way to go with this. So I made a drawing of what my idea is. I'd need to source some hardwood or some polypropylene sheets (thick maybe 3/8") to absorb the hammering and transfer the forces to the CV cup rather than into the brittle hardened bearing surfaces. Also the grooves in the boards/sheets would have to be perfectly sized to fit around the axle, but not let the bands fit through. I'd also need to figure out how to prevent the axle from articulating as I'm beating it up for lunch money. Here's my idea, though if anyone has experience doing this without damaging any of the axle components then please share.

Hi all! I'm new here, thanks for taking me in, happy to see a community like this! I have some problems that I couldn't overcome with the google+chatgpt+youtube trinity so far. I have a 1989 E12 Libero, KJ8 engine code, carbed. Can anyone point me in the direction of this part? I am looking for a replacement. I managed to work out that its a vacuum switch/solenoid, but I cannot find the part on amayama or other sites. Searching for brand name/numbers was not successful either. I might see some glue residue inside from previous repair attempt, but the holes are so small that I'm not sure. According to the vacuum diagram it is connected to 2 ports on the carb, marked with "E" & "S" on the switch there are to marks, "S" & "N" If I connect this to the vacuum port to the carb as it is shown on the vacuum diagram, it kills the engine for 0.5 second in every 1 second, as soon as the vacuum reaches to a point where it is supposed to work. Basically making it undriveable at 2000rpm. If I disconnect, engine seems to misfire at every rpm slightly, not bad, but not driveable on the long run. The previous attempt was to keep the switch's electric plug connected, but the 2 vacuum ports were disconnected from it, and simply plugged into each other, making constant conncention between the to ports of the carb. I am thinking about replacing to some random "EVAP Evaporative Emissions Vacuum Solenoid Switching Valve" as I found they work in a similar mater, and give it a go. Any ideas or help is much appreciated! Thanks!

I've got a seized rear stub. I'm lost as to how the shaft is removed from the CV joint. From what I've read on here it is technically possible to remove the shaft from the CV joint, as is shown above, but this takes some finesse. I do not have a press and I don't want to wallop on the joint since the hardened steel is brittle. Does anyone have any pointers on how to remove the shaft? Is it possible to angle the joint with the shaft still in place, then use a brass punch to shift the cage enough to remove the balls without removing the shaft? Isn't all that retains the shaft is a circlip, similar to the DOJ retaining clip but smaller in diameter? Thanks :] P.S. I'm trying to remove the stub since I'm doing my rear wheel bearings. Technically I can reinstall the axle without removing the stub and get everything lined up. But in the future if I need to replace the stub (sheared splines, etc) then I'm basically SOL and have to replace the entire axle.

1991 Loyale Wagon SPFI FWD had new cats put on 6 years ago after CA smog fail. New cats then passed CA smog with flying colors. HC (ppm) meas was 6 (six) @15mph and 3 (three) @25 mph. CO% meas was 0.01 @15mph and 0.00 !!!. @25mph. NO (ppm) meas was 58 @15mph and 32 @25mph. I could not have been happier. Engine had 340k miles on it. After the engine overheated to death, I swapped in an EA82 long block (a pro rebuild that is now going on 6k happy miles - I got lucky on a Craigs List find. All good work, from cams to main bearings to new oil pump. Probably rebuilt around 2009 when machining and parts were still available). Jump ahead to 2021 and 2023 when the CA smog tests measured crazy high. HC (ppm) meas was 118 @15mph and NO (ppm) meas was 788!!! @15mph. BUT NO (ppm) meas was only 64 @25mph. I am not sure as to WHY. My DIY guesses range from my having messed up the EGR setup, to a low performing fuel pump (lean fuel mix) , to a slightly higher compression ratio after heads resurfaced (although there has never been any knocking sound). Any ideas? Thanks to all you guys for still being here.- Ricky

New to the Subaru Sambar, looking for help with a recent import.

I have a 1987 GL-10 which I haven’t been using and decided to gift it to a friend in need of an inexpensive vehicle. I’m helping him resolve some issues with it. It’s getting a 31 code. The TPS is the 4-wire type. Without going into detail, the original TPS was irreparably damaged during removal. Based on information posted here https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/153231-1987-subaru-gl-throttle-position-sensor-help/?do=findComment&comment=1283981 I located and purchased this: https://www.partsgeek.com/dpq5225-isuzu-i-mark-throttle-position-sensor.html with part description “Throttle Position Sensor - 1989 Isuzu i Mark - Walker 1272-06053178” This is what it looks like: And internally: Box label: Prior to cutting any wires, I checked resistance as described in the EA82 FSM: And measurements were within specs. So, I took a leap of faith and cut the wires on this new TPS and on the engine side connectors and soldered in a new connector on each side. I installed the TPS and double-checked the resistance on the TPS pins and everything was still within specs. So, I went ahead and connected the TPS to the engine side connector, reinstalled the components and belts which had been removed to gain access to the TPS screws. The engine started on the first attempt and was running smoothly. After it had been running for a few minutes, the RPMs suddenly jumped from around 1000 to around 2000. At some point, the CEL came on. I looked at the ECM light to see that it was blinking 31 again. I pulled the connector to check the resistance on the TPS. There was no longer any continuity at all on any of the pins, regardless of the throttle position. At this point, I don’t know if the part just failed due to some defect, or if it was somehow damaged by some condition when the engine was running. Regardless, it can’t be returned to PartsGeek, due to my having cut off the original connector. I’m fairly certain that I matched wires correctly between the 2 sides. The engine side harness wires have the following functions: I measured the voltage on the red and it is 5 volts. Red goes to red, black to black, green on the engine side to white on the TPS side and blue/green to blue, for the idle switch. I’m hoping someone might have some ideas on how I can troubleshoot this. Can you think of any scenario which could have caused the new TPS to fail? Without knowing, I’m reluctant to plunk down another $210. If I do go that route, I’ll temporarily use its existing connector with alligator clips on its tabs. That way, if it doesn’t work, I could return it. I would appreciate any advice!

I would bet externally interchangeable. Definitely different internals, but I suspect due to different assist amounts. I know the pumps have different volume and pressure specs. I'd try it. YMMV

Time for a disc brake conversion!

Sounds good. I have replacement shoes that I got for a steal so I'll carry them around just in case. Should get some replacement axle washers too. They're ceramic shoes, are those more brittle than the organic shoes? I wasn't being rough at all and it chipped. It wasn't chipped beforehand, I definitely did it but I was shocked at how easily it happened. Thanks :]

These were useful for decoding https://www.nhtsa.gov/vin-decoder https://www.scoobynet.com/vindecoder.php?vin=4S3BE646535210368

You will be perfectly fine.

Personally I’d run it as it’s a small area - and you’re aware of it. That said, I’m no brake expert and others may disagree.

I've been redoing all my wheel bearings, seals, and brakes. While pulling a late one (tonight, literally minutes ago) as I was putting on my new drum I chipped a shoe. I didn't have the auto adjuster fully backed out, only 2 or 3 teeth until it was fully backed out and the shoe must not have been sitting perfectly concentric with the drum. Either way, it's about the size of a grain of rice. Should I replace my mistake or let it go? This is my first time fully redoing drum brakes. Don't worry, I cleaned up the excess brake lube. That stuff's like anti seize. One drop can paint a house.

Thanks, I'm in California I could just imagine shipping cost. The radiator shop I found has good reputation on repairing fuel tanks. From low budget to high end customize fuel tanks. And I'm going for the low budget repair.

Things are moving well but could be doing better making space faster. Another call out to the masses. If you can make it by Milford CT you’d do well. Other guys have driven over 11 1/2 hours to get here in the past. This is IT. We are ending our involvement with that stage and devoting all efforts to 1972-77 stage one. Lots of 1977 stage two through 1979 parts and Gen One Brat.

Welcome. All I can say is my friend has a 2017 same as yours and he loves it. Took a deer strike with bad damage and they made it like new. He and I are long time Subaru owners going back decades. We’ve have them all, pretty much. And of the current later models we don’t see ourselves jumping into a Legacy.

Just a suggestion for the tank if you take it serious and want it around for maybe the next generation or so. Moyer in PA does an awesome job. If I could post pics easily I’d show you. They blast is rust free inside and out, do repairs if necessary, and treat it with their own patented formula which is NOT epoxy and good for all fuels. Tank looks ready for another 50 years. Good luck with it.

Updates... Was able to get it started again. Yes it's the old varnish gasoline that created that slick coating on the cylinder. Reason I know is cause I drain the 4 gallons of gasoline and filter it back to my Suzuki Samurai to burn it off. The next day I went to start my Suzuki. I got the same slick no start issue. Took some starting fluid to crank the engine on. Crazy that fuel would cause that. Gave me reason to take a trip to the mountains to completely burn off the fuel. The Subaru fuel tank has come out and discover a huge layer of sludge and rust. Drop it off at a radiator shop and see if it could be saved.Updates… I managed to get it started again. Turns out the old varnished gasoline was creating a slick coating on the cylinder. I figured it out after draining 4 gallons and filtering it into my Suzuki Samurai to burn off. The next day, when I tried starting the Suzuki, I ran into the same slick no-start issue. A little starting fluid finally got the engine to crank. Crazy that the fuel I added just days prior could varnish so quickly! At least it gave me an excuse to take a mountain trip to burn it off completely. As for the Subaru, I pulled the fuel tank and found a thick layer of sludge and rust, so I dropped it off at a radiator shop to see if it can be saved. Bushytails you were smack on on the that issue.

I ended up with a brand new 00-04 Outback H6 power steering rack, part number 34110AE20A. Curious to know if I would run into any issues installing this into my 4-cyl 2003 Outback, as I found a bit of steering fluid pooled up in my rack bellow when I went to swap an end link out. If I could just throw this rack in and align the thing, that would be awesome. Thanks for any/all help!

Fair enough if the maintenance work is becoming a challenge for you, can’t stay young and nimble forever! Thanks for verifying what was done.

What I've learned refurbishing my 3rd gen wagon (89 GL). Parts: Hoard them. Buy yourself an ultrasonic cleaner because there's gonna be a lot of greasy used parts you'll need to clean if you intend to run this car for any period of time. Engine: EA82's are simple to teardown. However, aluminum threads don't like to be abused. Be careful with exhaust flanges and intake manifold bolts. They tend to strip or corrode in some form or another. Pistons, connecting rods, valve springs, valves, valve retainers, oil pumps, OEM water pumps, cylinder heads without deep cracks, oil pickups, and more can be difficult to find. Luckily you're in the right place to find them but still. There's a reason EA82's have gone the way of the dodo. Buying a good parts engine (if you can find one) isn't a bad idea. Suspension: Front struts and good quality front strut mounts are difficult to find. The chinesium parts that makes up 80% of the parts market for these cars usually aren't worth giving the time of day. Look at DRW Bushings for suspension bushings. I've been very impressed with the bushings and the owner's communication, I'd highly recommend. Springs can be hard to find, there are overload springs out there. Wheels & Bearings: 4x140 is going to be your biggest hurdle. Looks like you've got a set of shallow wagon wheels (I'm jealous). It's just difficult to find known good wheels, new 4x140 wheels are quite obscure. Bearings aren't too bad if you have a bearing puller. Honestly the seals can put up more of a fight than the bearings. Remember to replace your axle nut spring washers. Axles: If they're not rusty and crusty, clean them and reboot them. Buy neoprene boots, I recommend EMPI. I use Yamalube ACC-MOLDM-GS-05. Use what you like but it's good grease. You may find out, if you haven't already, that if you do need to replace an axle, it's difficult to buy "the right one". There are multiple different axles (4 or 5, I can't remember) that are used depending on the cars drivetrain and fuel delivery system. Stay away from most cheap axles. Sometimes remans are okay but your best bet is used OEM that have been cleaned and rebooted. Get familiar with the identification bands on the axle shafts near the outer boot and your axle spline count. Outer axle joints cannot be disassembled, to clean wipe the grease off and pour a cleaning solvent into the joint. Pour out the sludge and wipe away the rest. Let the solvent off gas and repack with grease. Interior: Speedometer cables and throttle cables can be difficult to find. Yes there are cheap parts put there, but those are always a crap shoot. The foam on the HVAC blend doors has probably severely degraded and that will cause issues with actually feeling the full effect of your HVAC system. I'd recommend replacing the foam. Once you've torn the dash off, its easy to do again. Getting it back together can be a pain with the HVAC controls (4 vacuum hoses and a cable). Plastic trim pieces are NLA and will have to be a junkyard, craigslist, or eBay find. If you decide to manual swap the car, get a pedal box from a later GL or a Loyale. Older pedal boxes are prone to cracking. Glass: Junkyard. Literature: Get a copy of a parts manual and I'd also recommend a hardcopy of the factory service manual set. Yes you can find them mostly online but having a hardcopy is very helpful. Good luck :]

Lots of thoughts on going forward. But in general for now to just rehabilitate the carb’d EA82 that’ll be a bit of a project. Not so bad really but these days we see most folks immediately ditch the old power plant and sometimes as needed the drivetrain too. You have the last of the carb’d engines. In 1987 it’s a split year. You’ll find DL wagons and sedans with the carb until a certain production date. Then they’re SPFI. You can swap blocks and blank off the EGR ports in the exhaust should you want to try making it SPFI. Been ages for me since I’ve had that era but we had so many between parts cars and drivers. Pretty much all my stash is gone from that era. I never had any real trouble with the Hitachi in general from the 70s through the last of them. But those last run carbs have more emission crap and can in my opinion be more finicky. Less manageable. But they’re carbs so it’s always a little bit of luck and black magic. lol EA82 engine parts - the timing belts are hard to find or at least the drivers side which is the one that typically craps out. Oil pump. Reseal kits, you can imagine what it’s like now. There is zero support with very little exception. Carl Porter has some NOS from that era. He might see this here or find him on FB with the usual old school Subaru groups. West coast dealers you might get lucky. This era unfortunately comes with the New Subaru World Order when they made lots of threats to the new wave of dealers to scrap outgoing inventory and damage panels, components, etc so nobody could dumpster dive. So the spares left or much harder to come by than the 70s. It’s a sad story but at least parts lived on. History story: when the Subaru finally caught on here the kind folks at SOA headquarters decided that no longer would their cars be dealt out of mom n pop corner garages and such but they’d have to have a large parcel and big $ to invest. So many mom n pop dealerships closed up and we NOT allowed to sell their parts to the new dealers or back to SOA. Seversl large lots of NOS came to the public. I’m still selling off some of mine. But come the 80s it’s corporate control. Hope you enjoyed the read and enjoy that wagon. Took my young family on many vacations and romps in those. Another several paragraphs of stories there at least. Cheers!

They replaced the slave. If they give me the old one, I might investigate rebuilding it and keep it with the other spares I have for the car. With fresh fluid and a bleed, maybe the master will be ok, if not, it's the onley thing left so, I might tackle it myself but really guys, maintenance and repair work is getting to be a challenge for me nowadays.