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Do you mean EA81?

Using an additional engine cross member was my initial plan (this does match what I have seen in the previous tcase builds) , but I wasn't sure I'd be able to extend the steering input shaft (i.e. the part that goes to the u joint) through the additional cross member To handle the steering adjustment I was thinking of extending the tie rod ends and leaving the steering rack where it is. I'll have to see how extreme the angle becomes with this approach The front control arms have two mounting points that I am planning to drop down off of the fabricated portion of the front subframe. Depending on the trickiness of relocating the front control arm mounting point I may end up cutting/using a portion of a front cross member anyway (the bottom half) Reusing the rear subframe will provide a start to integrating the equivalent of "frame rails" to mount the t case to. Between mounting this front subframe (with rail supporting the tcase) to the original control arm mounting points, the transmission cradle mounting points, and eventually the rear subframe I hope to provide enough support The 2.0 in the Crosstrek doesn't make a crazy amount of torque but I am concerned with the larger gear ratios still blowing components up.

Good tip Imdew, but i was trying to test the ball joint all along, but quite impossible without disassembly it seems..... if you lift the car, the A arm sits at such an angle that even if there was play, i dont think that id feel it tugging at the wheel. its not like checking for freeplay at the steering head in a bike refretfully crazy how with those tie rods gone, car felt like its totally clapped out! with new stupid tie rods, feels like a new car, just odd

I've never heard axles that bad going in a straight line...

Were these new or reman axles?

Zero. The EA82 5spd is essentially the predecessor to the EJ 5spd and shares far more with with that box than the 4spd.

If you do wheel bearings I'd recommend buying sealed bearings and foregoing the seals. If anything take one seal off each bearing, face the unsealed sides into the knuckle and pack grease between them inside the knuckle. The seals are a real pain in my opinion. Front bearings are super easy compared to the rears, if you lift the engine & trans as a unit to get the axles out then you don't have to detach any suspension components. If anything take your outer tie rods out of the knuckle but I got away without it. Putting the axles back in, you may have to loosen/partially drop the control arms. :]

Thanks yall. I jacked it up again today and made sure the axle nut was tight as well as the lug nuts. There is a little vertical play in the passenger side wheel but that was there before when there was no clicking noise prior to replacing the cv's (I have to replace the wheel bearings but didn't have time while doing the axles). I could replace the bearings and see if that fixes it Noise is the same while turning and I haven't been able to test with another passenger yet but will try to do that today. The inner cups seem to have a lil bit of play - don't think they are jammed downwards by the shafts. Cone washers are installed. This noise only started after replacing the cv axles so I don't think there are any issues that suddenly arose with the transmission, driveshaft, or engine mounts. I've uploaded a video of me driving here: https://youtube.com/shorts/xNpCdfp6KzQ?feature=share Hope this is helpful!

Generally the front crossmember is spaced down, and diff mounts fabbed to it (this way suspension and steering mounts are all kept correct), and then motor mounts fabbed above that, usually incorporated into the subframe spacers. Generally the crossmember needs to be spaced down from the body about 8" to provide adequate clearance to the oil pan. I think all the cars where I'd seen it done still ran the EA81 or EA82 engine, so not much power to speak of. Which probably helps keep the diff alive. And with actual lockers available now, it'd be a lot easier to abuse.

Manual transmission cars have the guide over the crank sprocket. I've seen the belts get grooved up if that's adjusted too tight. But I assume you've encountered that. I've not noticed any wear like that on a 2005+ car with the covers on.

Threebond 1324 is a thread locker and sealer. So on the bolts. Theoretically the gasket goes on dry, but I always put a smear of sealant on the gasket. I would probably use anaerobic if I were doing it now. I keep Permatex anaerobic on hand at home. Subaru also lists "3M™ High-Strength Threadlocker, #08730" as an alternative to 1324, which is likely much easier to source. More Threebond information than one could ever need (I found it VERY interesting) https://threebond.com/wp-content/uploads/Products-Guide_ver6-LOCAL.pdf Subaru replaces and updates what Threebond product to use so often that it's very difficult to follow. I just made a list of the 5 sealant products that are currently available from Subaru with notes about different applications to try to helps us keep them straight (I work in parts at a Subaru dealership). I have to say, I had a pretty visceral reaction when I saw a post from WJM in the list today.

I've got a line on one car if I can get to it in time - seller wants to list it pretty high but has agreed to sell to me for what he's got in it if he doesn't see any interest. Then there's a guy in Iowa that I am trying to get a hold of - claims he's got "a couple to pick from" where I would be perfectly fine driving out with a friend, renting a one-way trailer, hauling one and driving the other back. Assuming he ever responds. "You didn't hear this from me, but..."

Hello, my WRX recently got rod knock, and Ive been looking for a place to buy an engine to replace it. I was thinking of purchasing from LAJDM and sending it to a mechanic to replace. I wanted to use this one: https://lajdm.com/subaru/engines/subaru-wrx-fa20-2015-2016-2017-2018-2019-2020-2021-engine/566/jdm-subaru-wrx-engine-2015-2017-2-0l-turbo-fa20-turbo-motor-low-miles/ I Wanted to know if anyone has purchased an engine from LAJDM and if it turned out fine.

Shop those transport people. Did you put yours up for bid? If you do or did, wait after they send their first and even second offers. Maybe try to make a contact but still wait even if you give more details or talk to one of them. You’ll see the price drop dramatically. I’ve done this a few times. Also if you’re not too worried about the $2k as long as you included a nice roadtrip you can do what I did last year and fly out, rent the truck and pull along, and bring it back yourself. That ride through the southwest and using I-40 into the Appalachians is really awesome. I stopped to see another one of us vintage Subaru owners in NC before heading north back home. Either way you won’t miss the money and you’ll have a really great memory to have and share. I’m just now getting my 1977 stage one 4WD wagon from NM back to roadworthy. I put those Forceum mudslinger tires on some powder coated white spoke wheels and it’s already turning heads and hasn’t left the condo parking lot. Money comes and goes. I know how it is. I’m working class. So we don’t really talk about this but if you skirt the rules a little you can use a box truck and trailer and bring back two. Shhhh just something I heard.

I did this a million years ago. Just make a simple plate. I cut mine from something i can’t recall but the metal was blued. Might have been an old blade but anyways i made it somewhat diamond/football shaped and drilled the two hole, times two pieces. In my state it was never an issue with emissions. Block them off and i would just go for a metal to metal seal. That’s one heck of a hot spot so not really sure which or any sealant could be used. Maybe cut up part of and old exhaust gasket? But mine worked fine metal to metal.

DRW makes a full polyurethane shifter bushing set (I promise I have no connection to the brand even though I sing their praises everywhere, I just believe in the product and respect the support for these old Roos). My shifter was awful before I installed them. Shifter in gear felt the same in neutral. Getting that roll pin out without dropping the transmission is a serious PITA. I ended up cutting the bolt going through the bushing out and installing a new shoulder bolt with a carbide drill bushing on the other end and an ultra-low profile nut. Clearance in there is non-existent. It's really not rocket science, however you slice it if you manage to get a new bushing in there then you'll notice an improvement. May be worth replacing all the shift linkage bushings while you're under there. :]

Guess next on the list is to try and get some of the shifter slop cleaned up. How much of this fix applies to the 5MT?

I am converting an old EA82 from carb to SPFI. The heads had two metal pipes, one either side, that I'd assume are for EGR. Either way, the ports for those metal pipes go all the way into the exhaust port flange so they'd cause exhaust leaks if I just bolted up my exhaust. I'd assume these ports need to be blocked off with a plate and some sealant, correct? :] P.S. I'd still keep all my emissions equipment in place for the SPFI setup, I'm just looking to adapt the carb EGR system to the SPFI system.

That 3 digit code at the start of the VIN I believe denotes the model and possibly the market it was sold in. This is the start of my VIN for my L series: JF2 And my Brumby: JF3 Interesting that my L series is a 1988 DL and my Brumby a 1990 GL (came with AC). Other than that I can’t tell you much more than the above about VINs. I do collect different VINs to source genuine parts through online searches that use VINs as the reference point.

@el_freddodo you know what's up with the 3-digit codes for these cars? I've seen them around when doing research but I've never found a chart or spreadsheet or anything listing them out and what they mean. For instance, my car's code matches (as far as I know) what's known in the AUDM as a "Super Turbo". My car isn't turbo and I cannot tell what transmissions the supers had (some places say AWD M/T, some say FT4WD). I'm just kind of confused by the whole thing. Not to hijack, I'm just curious. :]

Good point re tie rods - I’m chasing a knock in the front of one of our Pajero/Montero/Shoguns and was thinking ball joints. They’re probably original and with 460,000km on the car it’s probably time to change them… I’ll check out the tie rods and go from there, thanks for the tip!

No it’s not! Try Subarino auto electrical. He’s based in Perth and will send stuff internationally. The strut with the welded seat bolts in. Subaru obviously realised these were cheaper to manufacture and no one used the “wind up suspension” feature of the earlier struts. @SuspiciousPizza - I can provide you with an AUDM VIN if you need it.

Rule #1, if it isn't broken don't fix it. It happens to us all. The inner tire-rod end's wear out as well.

I’d put my money on the aftermarket shafts being the issue. Been there a few times ;( I do like the suggestions from bushytails. As for the front diff issues, I’ve never seen an issue with the manual transmissions and their front diffs.

Wouldn’t it be easier to get another front subframe and build the diff mounts to that? My thinking is you’ll need the steering rack lowered as well - and the rear subframe may not sit where you need it to accommodate the suspension pick up points and steering rack mounts. The way this was always done in the MY and L series models from the ‘80’s was to use a second engine crossmember. In saying that we don’t have a rear suspension crossmember or subframe as such in these models. I’m keen to see how this pans out!