Leaderboard

If it ends up being the fuel pump, might as well do a fresh fuel filter while you are at it. If it still doesn't start with a shot of starting fluid, verify the coil is still good. @280k anything can fail. If it threw a code, it might be a garbage code from the stalling/dying, so verify the fuel/spark first before trying to dive into areas that might actually be OK.

DBW or drive by wire means there is no cable connecting the throttle pedal to the engine. Its all electric wiring. There is a pedal assembly and another assembly at the throttle body.They plug in. What symptoms do you have ? My experience with the DBW cars is, if faulty they simply idle , no rev up at all . This can happen at any speed , if the connection at the pedal or the throttle body has a faulty signal the ecm sends it to idle. Not fun at 80 mph in the high speed lane for your car to drop to only an idle... A failing IACV usually has a very high idle, 2000-3000 until thoroughly warmed up.

Have you looked into a weak fuel pump, blocked fuel filter or pickup in the tank? The constant flashes of the ECU is the unit designation. It'll tell you which market it's been designed for. Eg USDM/JDM/AUDM etc. So your ECU does not have any stored codes which is a good thing. The only other thing I can think of is a dodgy O2 sensor that's not yet throwing a code but is upsetting things. Cheers Bennie

Running nicely. Cheers!

yep cam and crank sprockets were different swapped them over and it fired right up.

Just picked up this 1982 GLF Hardtop the other day. Very little rust, but needs some serious interior work, which I happen to have a bunch of parts for from an old Brat. It pays to hoard I guess.

My 86 GL is nearing 200,000 miles 10,000+ miles on the ej22 swap, mostly trouble free :-) She has never let me down

Very foolish. But whatever - you were warned. They harvest replacement computers for guys like you in junk yards every day so fly on Kennedy. GD