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Might have taken a few months from start to finish for my first steering rack rebuild,but I tell you it was all worth the effort and time. My inner and outer tie rods are rock sourced to make the task more affordable. I got the ELP-2 spec grease from a steering specialist, but figure most greases will be better than what most of you will find inside your racks! Tool list is pretty basic such as two shifters, a small cold chisel to tease the lock washer of the inner tie rod to rack connection. A pin punch should take over until washer flat enough to get things undone Almost just only wrist tight inner to rack A pair of 90° bent circlip pliers in the ready to squeeze in type for the circlip found under the special shaft seal that really needs care when removing as no longer available in this style. A normal grease seal likely to be sourced but genuine seal has a tough metal top ring bonded in. I don't believe it matters which direction the top of the T that bolts to the rubber flex join, but when assembled I sound drivers side end in so shoulders were flush then fitted spiral shaft so it's top line was in line with rack, not at an angle. Once circlip is out just need to jolt the shaft from steering coupling out, same sort of wriggle tap when assembling I left end seals as they were, just washing old crud out, clean up before assembly One end of rack has a flat on both sides for tightening inner tie rod rack ends so don't boot up until both sides done up and lock washers or thread locking goo is done. Steering joint I got my grease from ( out of their bulk supply) said they toss the lock washers ( also NLA for EA81) and use thread locking glues The other end of rack only has one flat so not as good on shifter when tightening up inner tie rod Setting my rack up for driveway no wheel alignments needed instantly- I set the rack on floor with outer tie rods tapered shaft to be square to the rack ( not their tendency to pully inwards Measuring from the tapered shafts centres I used 1245 mm and if it is 1265 I will edit later ...lock tie rod nuts and I now have such light , tight steering. Not pulling either way so figure I don't need a more professional/ accurate alignment - time will tell Locally a fellow Brumby owner paid out A$500 for a recond manual rack. I am happy to have done this myself and got such a good result. Replaced CV shafts I had kicking around for years, and also heavy duty coils and better strut tops so makes it hard to say just the rack made all the improvement CVs CSA110 from REPCO. Five year 100,000 km warranty Oh, forgot...there is a hard plastic slipper/guide and spring for getting correct free play tension on the rack itself. This is under the 14 mm bolt head with lock ring nut. I used a centre punch then just gentle drill tip point to enlarge centre punch marks. With both racks I did I found the 14 mm came out ~ 4.75 turns..so went back in the same turns to line up marks on 14 mm and housing.

Yep, just can do it out on the road and my drive is 30 Degrees up. Not getting it into the garage. Craigslist I believe. No time and No work space, since I switch jobs. So it goes. Nice Rust Free Outback for someone.

hmm why not just go for outback then. its same legacy inside and outside with small differences and with great almost 8'' ground clearance. legacy and outbacks have very low front bumper its just getting in the way most time. otherwise legacy or outback doing great off road. if you dont need clearance though. and depends what engine youll go for. 2.5 wont have all bells and whistles that h6 3.0 will have. no VDC too. i have just over 10'' clearance now. still drives fine on street .

Sounds good as long as you can. Board here isn’t what it used to be because people are retardedly giving up on message boards for face dook groups. FYI , my uncle still has his 1969 Ford Pickup here in CT - major salt/corrosive crap - due to spraying light oil underside. The big problem with our Subarus is the wheel apron has a horizontal seam which holds dirt , developed pinholes , and the water travels inside the rear quarters and settles over the wheel arch and down at the sill. With he rear wheels off , and if possible during a suspension swap , you want to treat that area if the wheel apron and tar it up or use whatever you choose. My friend just did a POR15 treatment after a good wire brushing etc. Good luck with it and enjoy your time here. Keep messageboards alive !! Cheers!

EJ22T Brat https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tgs4eY0J4uQ

Yep, that's where it would be. Like I said, I'm not sure exactly when that started, but evidently yours doesn't have it.

T-Bolt clamps are probably your best bet

Larry ; I don't think that trick would work and I'm not convinced that you need a clutch...Of course you won't know till the disk is in hand. I'm wondering what they did to that transmission? I'm thinking they may have broke the shaft inside. Your friend might be needing a transmission not a clutch (lets hope not) Besides to pull back the trans that far you will have disconnected the drive line and the mounting bracket. About the only things left are some wires and the c/v axles . Why bust your knuckles... just finish the job and bring that tranny to the ground .

That's a 99-04 (possible 05, I can't remember which valve cover style they used) ej251 or ej253, through those years the longblock is identical. The difference is whether the ecu use a maf or map sensor for load calculations.

So I stopped and talked with the owners, I'm picking up the whole car tomorrow. The first thing I checked was to see if it had your part and it does. Score on your part. Think of anything else you may need and I will see what the car has.

I don't have any of the parts that you need but I have some info that you may not be aware of. I used the door handle from a '80 sedan on the tailgate of my '81 Brat. Perfect fit. I'm telling you this so you won't be tempted to pay a premium price for a handle thinking that only a tailgate handle will work on a tailgate.

Thanks guys.

So the 2.2L H4 SOHC 16V is an interference engine, I assume. I was planning on offering a pretty low number to start.

Subaru dealer? in a new thread, you could aask for a shop suggestion near your city - someone may know of a Subaru-friendly independent mechanic. Talk to them about a pre-purchase inspection. Use any serious issues as a reason to either walk away, or get a lower price. At minimum, you waant to drive on-off the freeway after warm-up and watch the temp gauge and maybe look at the overflow bottle for excess fluid or bubbles. Drive in tight circles on dry pavement - should be no grabbing/bucking. Tires need to be IDENTICAL - not just same size - same brand and model too. If they cannot prove unequivocally that a PROPER timing belt system service was done, assume you need to have that done at least.