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I would add 1/2 oz oil with dye. I would have the hose repaired. There's a place in town that does that and they pickup/deliver to us. Mac's Radiator. Maybe someplace similar near you. It's typically about $80. You really need to pull a vacuum on the system after you fix the hose. Don't just put in refrigerant with those cans. Like as not you'll overcharge it. GD

The hack job wire I found on my 86 was wired to keep the AC relay energized all the time, so the compressor ran in any hvac mode except off. I was unaware of the mod when I first replaced the compressor, so I added a switch to turn the compressor off manually. When I eventually got a second similar car, I immediately noticed that the compressor would switch off when I hit the gas from a stop, helping noticeably with acceleration. Investigating that function was how I discovered the hack modification on the 86.

It's a pretty odd thing. The sensor is a bi metal thing with a contact. The other contact is on the diaphragm that is moved by oil pressure. The meter is a bi metal arm with a heater. The sensor heater is in series with the gauge heater. So when the sensor heater bends enough to open it's contact, the gauge bi metal bends a corresponding amount, moving the needle proportionally. It is normal to be open when at zero pressure. The FSM also warns NOT to apply 12V to either heater directly, as excessive current will flow and could damage them.

Checked for codes? It could also be a dead/dirty throttle position sensor or air flow meter. Hows the air filter in this thing - fresh/dirty?? Cheers Bennie

I’m guessing that you only go wheeling as day trips, close to town, in a group that makes recovery/fix easy? I’ve never bent a front or a rear strut and have been pretty loaded up. I can’t afford to break stuff out bush, especially if help is more than a day or two’s walk. That = very expensive just to get back into town let-a-lone all the way back home if parts aren’t easily accessible. Cheers Bennie

To me it's not about the ice, it's the dry windshield with all the dirt and salt on it that gets a dry 'screeeee' before the juice hits it. Also, you can get it all nicely soaked before the wiper hits it. Let me find the info again...

once you get that vehicle running, few things to note, if the vehicle backfires after turning the vehicle off, either you need to add a capacitor to the distributor, replace the capacitor if it already has one, your timing is too advanced, or your fuel jets are too big and either need to decrease on them or replace the jets from wear and tear. dieseling? try hooking up a vacuum gauge, calibrate your air to fuel mixture until you reach around 18 inches of mercury (or more if the vacuum lines and piston rings are of that great of shape), keep going until that vacuum needle begins to dance around (becoming unstable and starts decreasing), then go back half a turn, that should do it.

Do a compression test and check the plugs. Kinda sounds like it is running on 3 cyl. Idle is low too. See if unplugging the CTS makes any difference.

Figured it out right after that. Ended up the float was a couple mm off. I just really don't wanna spend the money on another carb when I can pick up a ej22 for a little more. Main reason why I stopped looking for webers.

I probably suggest this too often: CTS - coolant temp sensor. Remember - on yours there is the single wire for the gauge and next to it is the actual sensor to the ECU....you want the latter.

The End. i no longer have anything EA82 in my possesion, pulled out completely from them. Next project i'll be tackling is a 1968 Peugeot 404 for those wondering.