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Just an update for the viewing audience. I will not be a Subaru owner after all. I didn't really find any other Subarus in the area in my price range that didn't look like they had just been abused their entire lives or had well over 200,000 miles on them. I did give a guy a deposit over the weekend for a 2007 Honda Civic EX 5 speed. 176,000 on the car and 98,000 on the engine with a new clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, upper and lower radiator hose, coolant flush, water pump and a few other parts and gaskets. The car runs and drives great. It has about 75% left on the tires. It appears to be something I can bring home and start driving to work right away without worrying about much until it's time for an oil change. Thanks again for all the advice, it was very helpful. Maybe I'll look for a Subaru again down the road when I have used up the Honda.

Installed a 97 Hatch on my 2000 today. Worked great, all the electrical plugs joined right up. I found the rear wiper hose cracked on my 2000 and the 97 about 2" from the body to hatch connection. Easy fix with the extra tube. I do have a door Light. I'll have to look to see if the wiring changed. Have a good one! Subaru, plug and play, for the most part. Sweet!

If it is a low hum, I usually found that to be the u joint bearings shot, throwing off the balance. Wheel bearings could do that sort of low note vibration also. If it's more of a shimmy like 1 pulse per revolution if the tires, that's more likely related to alignment, suspension and all that stuff. I did have a weird 1 ppr shimmy when a tire partially failed. The tread separated from the steel belts, forming a bubble. It would be obvious at some speeds, and dissappear at others.

Yea, if you're extending the arms, you'll probably be fine. The length is very similar, if not identical. BUT, the tab coming off the knuckle for the tie rod end is angled differently on an EJ knuckle than EA82/XT6. So with XT6 knuckles, you can just use XT6/EJ rod ends. But with EJ ones, you need shorter rod ends. This changes the geometry a bit, and gives the car a bit more Akermann angle.

Or just bore the ball joint opening in the EA82 control arm for the EJ joint. Also need EA81 tie rod ends (EA82 uses smaller stud in the knuckle than EA81 or EJ, and EJ ones are too long).

using the internet to learn how to drive a manual is like using the internet to self diagnose an illness.. DON'T DO IT! and while they may be a "relic" of a bygone era, there are still plenty of them around, so learning how to drive one is not a complete waste of time - yet... One should NEVER ride around with the tranny in neutral... disengage the clutch by using the pedal (depressed FULLY, not partially), fine, but never just pop it into neutral and leave it there as you are slowing down. my first Subaru had a 5 speed - it needed a clutch when I got it (was an 89 GL that I got in 2000)... had one installed and drove the snot out of that car for 8 years with no clutch problems - and I was not "gentle" with it, either.. it still had plenty of life left when the car was taken off the road due to structural rust issues. riding the pedal (partially depressed) is where the greater majority of wear is going to come from.. using it correctly, even when downshifting to slow down, will not result in excessive wear.

Well, it's a mischaracterization to say that you're "using the clutch to slow down". That's like saying that you're "using the clutch to speed up" when you're accelerating. The clutch doesn't slow you - you're using it to shift to a lower gear, then letting the motor slow you down. The point (of course) is to do it right by matching the revs to minimize wear, which keeps you in closer touch with the state of the machine. GD, I've gotta disagree wrt to learning a manual being "a waste of time for most kids now". It's a skill, and learning a new skill should never be considered a waste (at least, that's my argument to the friend who's telling me that learning how to rebuild an engine is a useless exercise when I can just go buy a used one, especially since I have no intention of doing it professionally). I have two 16-year-old girls - they just got their licenses, and it's important to us that they're able to handle with equal comfort and competence all of our vehicles - standard or automatic - because they cannot predict which car or truck they may have to drive in a given set of circumstances. Plus, they just bought a dirt bike, and they'll be that much further ahead with it thanks to having learned to handle the 5MT in the Legacys.

Update: Made a junkyard front 5 lug brake setup from 4 different cars. So I should be knocking out the front setup shortly. Hubs/ spindles-91 legacy no abs Calipers & rotors off early 2000’s forester

Oh yeah, that camber and axle angles look just fine. Nothing to be improved on there. Oh except for terrible positive camber, and 30+ degree angles on those axles. They are bottomed against the edge of the cup! FWIW, the problem breaking axles is on uptravel, when the wheel has lots of weight and traction. At droop like shown, there is not really any traction to transfer power so that's not where the breaky breaky happens. And the axle shafts hang "ungaurded" just asking to be backed into rocks on rough terrain. Been there, done that. Thanks for posting pics that so beautifully illustrate all the problematic stuff that happens with long travel EA81 set-ups. I see too that your lift blocks use all right angles, with no diagonal bracing, and especially doesn't look like your torsion tube is cross braced. You will have issues with that soon enough,. If you don't your not wheeling like I wheel my car. MY EA81 is not my DD. And I didn't build it to look cool. I built it to wheel. Been doin so for years now. I know that of which I speak. As for the shock mounts.......I've got that covered......continue watching the progress of this thread and you will see. I have previously reinforced those mount points, tie them into the body rail below and above. I've got Long travel Bilsteins punched 3" up into the trunk. mounts are brace in a triangulated pattern, and tied together with a crossbar in the trunk that serves as a hi-lift jack mount Believe me, the mounting area is strong enough and built for a long travel already. I would ask that if you want to further talk about EA81 rear suspension and how YOU think it should be setup......Please start a thread. Your car is an awesome build. And for fun, most of the time, the EA81 set-up you've got is great.....your's is about as good as it can get......but that's the point.....it's as good as it can be, and I am ready for better..... I'm sure the OP would appreciate keeping this one focused on his Outback projects. One or 2 post with a comparative point is fine, but we are getting now into thread jack territory. I only posted in here becasue I am modifying the same type of set up as him.

Love this old girl, 383k and still kicking. She isn’t much on looks but doesn’t quit either. Weberized and 6 lug swap since I got her, changed the motor mounts the other day and all 4 fell out in two pieces. For all I know they were original!

This is the second "turbo my EJ22" thread in as many days. Search a bit. Then go over to the "N/A engines with bolt on forced induction" thread on NASIOC.com Yes, it can be done. No, you don't need a new computer. Get the oil supply and return plug from an EJ22t, it will make it easier. It bolts into the back of the passenger side head.