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@DaveT @sparkyboy @el_freddo @czny Swapped the intake gaskets with OEM. after taking the aftermarket off (which were totally ripped on both sides!) and looking into the engine, which was totally stained with coolant that was my issue! no more coolant loss and it’s running great. Looks like the head gaskets are safe for now! thanks for the help.

SOLVED. Jdm cam gears are not the same as usdm. The sensor will not read the jdm gear. Solution: Swapped the gears over to the usdm ones (yes timing marks are still the same aswell as keyway)

Went through the front struts on both Outbacks, wanted to change a few things and check them over. Replaced the one steel reservoir with an aluminum one and changed the valving. Made some chromoly steel front control arm brackets for the 99 OB. If they hold up well this year we'll probably make more next winter. Made the jig using a stock bracket that was in good shape. Not the strongest jig but seemed to work fine. One change I wanted to make was having longer slots than the stock brackets. The control arm and front crossmember is pushed back on the 99 on the driver's side so it's difficult to get a stock bracket bolted in even after elongating the slots. When you do get it in the arm is rubbing on it and I think that contributed to the failure last year. Welded. Painted and assembled. Had some group N bushings lying around, I had bought them not realizing those are brackets to fit an Impreza. It seems like many of the normal bushings are grease filled or something, maybe these will last longer. Also replaced the bolt on front wheel bearings while it was apart. They seemed fine. In the future I'll probably just keep a good spare in one of the cars. We've never had one fail and they're easy to replace. Replaced some CV boots, a ball joint, and an inner tie rod. They were all just a little loose or leaky. Replaced a brake disc that was pretty worn with another used one that is pretty thick.

true for most people, there still seems to be some studies ongoing for a small number of folks that might 'react' to light flicker. Incandescent filaments have too much mass to cool-off much. Fluorescents might dim to 35% of max. LEDs can dim to under 10% of max so, the effect might be sufficient to cause some subconscious issue with a few people. And if LEDs are used on a circuit with an improper dimmer, there can be other issues. there's a lot of variables though, spectra, type of circuit control used, intensity, mix of natural light, etc.

Wont be on the road. Its a drift car.my stock pipe was rotted completely away. I litterally just need to pass emissions so i can tow it on the dolly. And like i said its a drift car so obv its already rwd i dont want anyone chiming in with " you cant use a dolly" i know everyone here is kindof against robbing a subie of its all wheel but personally i think its a blast.

Can't say I have that problem. It sure is nice in this cold weather to have LEDs versus the failing fluorescent lamps that get grouchy in the cold, rarely even lighting all the way.

computer doesn't catch the 14 deleted codes on my WRX (due to frozen air cut valves and related pump)

Be careful if you have to remove the air lines. Those plastic couplers are easy to snap. A short plastic straw spot longways makes an excellent tool. The XT6 used the same compressor and I think the 1st generation Legacy also used the same part.

Sparkyboy, the compressor for air suspension should be under the front LHS guard/fender, between the wheel and the front bumper. Talk about using all nooks and crannys!! I hope for Giles that it’s still there. And Giles, I wouldn’t say the vortex was hugely popular over here. I think many of them stayed in the 80s after the initial excitement died off. In saying that I saw my second ever XT4 in ten or more years. That was on my street/road about six weeks ago. I couldn’t believe it and wished I could’ve followed them for a bit... Anyway, I digress! Cheers Bennie

I tried an easy-out on 2 of mine, found that predrilling with 7/64, then hammering in appropriate size torx, add impact driver = Viola!! Now I need new screws. Suppose I will go for the Dorman 917-034 Oil Separator Cover on Amazon for $23 prime, with screws.

What I'm saying is the additives they put in oils 30+ years ago are bad for emissions and are no longer present in modern oils, unless you're using NOS oil from back in the day.

@Meatboi I would like to add something...a wiring harness is close to impossible to screw up and I'll tell you why...say you cut a very important power or sensor wire off right at the harness, cause you thought it was a/c or cruise control, so you can't splice a new wire? Just push the pin out of the harness and replace. Just make sure to know the ecu pins well so you don't accidentally give something 12v that isn't supposed to. You can in theory use pins to hardwire the ecu directly to the intake manifold connectors, and eliminate the connector (as well as ALL the original wiring) completely, it just happens that the factory wiring is very nice. Plus the ecu fits nice in the glove box. Repinning the harness will allow you to mix and match ecus and harnesses when using obd2. Just food for thought, or in case you can't find a running donor car right away...plieadies tends to line these things up for those with patience, and who help others. Subaru swap life hack: buy a daily with ej whatever if you can for cheap. For while the loyale is under the knife. I got a 92 leggo in addition to the donor. How else would I know you can Scandinavian flick an L body, but the awd leggo won't? Not even with the e brake! Plus a future engine after finding awd weaknesses lol! Don't use the handbrake for flicking the loyale, especially to the left, so flicking right. I'm sure you already know why. I flick my xt on the street cuz turbo...have fun with the ea82 But don't break it if you can help it...someone will want that engine and might even pay you believe it or not. I got $125 for my old carby ea82, that was the asking price too. Save the rubber grommet cause it fits perfect on the firewall. And if obd1 (90-94 legacy, 96 and older impreza) do not remove the brown double diode on the alternator pigtail. It's critical.

Keep that trash in the street, not in our house!

fwiw - the haynes manual is pretty useless aside from the most basic of things.. the link I gave you will have much more useful information in it (and more accurate)

The Lisle (craftsman is the same) impact screwdriver has a 1/2" drive on it. You can adapt this to an Allen socket and get them out that way. You have to use a good snap on allen socket, etc or you will chowder the receptacle. I Usually just use a left hand drill bit - it's faster. Once the thread tension is released they typically back right out. Snap on sells a nice stub length mechanics left hand set of 5 bits that is really excellent. GD

I have found that when dealing with tight allen head screws not to use a standard L shaped allen wrench. Get a set that will attach to a 3/8 drive ratchet. You can put more pressure and leverage on them that way.

you will want to use metric. That looks like the updated baffle plate.