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No way. for $1,200 there are way better platforms. That is really neat as a data point and novelty item. If that’s your goal then yes do it. It would probably be the only one in the US...I know of one and this might be it (more on that later). Ive been daily driving and playing with the ER27 for 25+ years and have a few now. They’re fine daily drivers, and horrible swap or performance platforms. Everything about them is low grade in terms of cooling, heads, intake, Siamesed exhaust, craptastic 2 valves per cylinder. They can be reliable and do well in a daily driver. That’s it. It ends there anything else is subject massively to the law of diminishing returns. It’s cool to tinker if you have an XT6. but as a starting point for a project, or even building a performance XT, it’s bottom shelf material. you’ll be buying yourself into a low performing (relatively speaking), eternally choked and hamstrung, no parts available, wannabe. So that’s all 100% true if this listing is accurate to the most positive degree. Still a terrible option and poor deal. But as it stands - this is a build with sparse details and is 12 years old. That kind of description almost never favors the buyer. Surely if you’re a car guy building an LS youve been around the block and know this. unknown miles and how many times was it raced or rallied? Was it built to be rebuilt every 40k like a race car? So many times people call things “performance”, “built”, “supercharged”, “rebuilt”, “stroker” - and it has new headgaskets, one step lower temp plugs, and horrific camber front tires. They can be reliable and great engines...but not for performance and other than keeping an XT6 stock, Id do a hard pass on an ER27 except for maintaining a stock daily driver. A guy in Philly built a supercharged XT6 about that long ago in the Philly area and I’ve spoken with him many moons ago. If that’s his engine then he did seem to spare little expense. he was trying to sell the car like a decade ago. If this is his then it might be a good build but all the above still holds true.

Hi all, New to this BB, Suby guy in Vancouver BC. My main ride 2010 Outback Limited, 200K KM's. Since retiring, been doing a lot of the work myself, easier on the pension. I also have a 2014 Impreza Sport, a Dodge 2000 Leisure Travel Van, and a lot of time on my hands. Hoping to gain some knowledge from a bunch of knowledgeable Subaru fans. Looking forward to contributing and a big hello to everyone on board.

I asked because some cars will revert to 'base' parameters stored in the ECU's memeory if the MAF is unplugged. The idea was this, if the car runs better on the base map, it kinda points to a sensor or sensor wiring/grounding type of problem. if not, then it could be something more 'physical' like a burned valve or .....? GD could explain better.

Yep, I’ve removed it before and seen one that was already like that when I came across it (either I bought it or worked on someone else’s car). I don’t recall which vehicle or if it was temporary or for the long haul, but I’ve never seen issues from it. just cut it off insitu. Thread locker won’t work. Glue or peening will never work on the vehicle. it would have to be removed at which point I’d get a replacement used one or have a buddy tack it back on or mail it to me to do it. No point in making questionable meager repair attempts if you go through the effort to remove it. Please prove me wrong! I’d love to see you find an easy on the car repair...I just don’t see that happening here.

No he didn’t offer much info and I think had a shop doing it, (which I think is much of the high costs), so he may not have known many specifics. He’d occasionally have questions and I’d offer feedback. He was on the now non-operational XT/XT6 forum during the build and offered the entire vehicle for sale some years later. RAM engines had the most feedback and information and publicly available experience about pistons for EA and ER turbos and building these engines. I have no idea if they supplied any of the parts for this or not. Just mentioning them because that’s the only extensive information ever about what you’re asking They moved from Ohio to SC and it looks like much of their online content, and overall focus, on EA/ER engines is gone. They had suppliers of oversized and forced induction pistons and rings for them. And I think larger valves. I’ve been to their shop, met them, posted components and prices on the non-working Subaru XT/XT6, and watched them run engines on a stand....like 10-15 years ago or so. But that’s all inaccessible now due to a complicated set of probably irresolvable issues regarding the XT website.

do you know how this was stroked? does he have a write up somewhere?

I missed that this includes the trans - that does make it more interesting if you’re into old gens. In a sense it’s $600 for an engine and $600 for a trans. That’s not unreasonable for someone with an XT to poke around with. And yes this is the engine that I’m aware of. I know the original owners name, it was 1.5 hours from where I’m from. Considerable time and $ was put into that engine. So of all the “built Subaru” engines for sale this one has a significant chance of being a legit good build.

I will not be getting lol thank you all for the answer I really appreciate it!!!!

That’s it. You don’t need to remove the oil pump but even that is easy on these. Remove belts and remove pulley. That’s it. No need to remove the pump. There are holes in the face of the oil pump pulley. The right tool inserted into them will grab areas behind the sprocket and hold it steady to loosen the bolt if you don’t have an impact gun. A 1/4” extension comes to mind but that’s just a hunch. once removed try to peen it back into place or tack weld it. Wrap it in cool damp rags to absorb heat. Don’t run a continuous bead, that’ll overheat things too much If that sounds like too much work, it could be carefully removed - cutoff insitu without doing any work.

it would be very helpful to know exactly what is going on with the pump - that way appropriate detailed advice can be given.

The oil pump pulley comes right off - with an impact wrench, or once removed, clamp the rotor in a vise with soft jaws or wood blocks. Mine all have the pulleys intact. I think I may have one used one that had the flange loose, so I swapped the pulley for a good one.

I don't have one to sell right now but I did take apart one on my GL, 1984. It is a pretty simple mechanism, and easy to clean. I only had to clean off the grease, and polish the parts, and then it was like new. Take lots of photos, and be aware that there are some ball bearings and small springs which can fall out. Magnets can help retain these. mkoch

Awesome. Look into boosting the 3.6L H6. Been done a few times and ppl are getting good results from these builds. A sand rail could be fun Cheers Bennie

If the back belt guide is detached from the oil pump pulley, don't leave it there. The belt should never be pushing hard against the sides, but they are there to help keep them tracking correctly. You won't be able to buy a new pulley, but a used one might be findable. Or try to repair it. The steel ring is staked onto the cenet part. I don't think the center is weldable. I might try brazing if I had to fix one.

does this car have a MAF ? how does it run with the MAF unplugged?

You know.. I just had a moment of realization.. So the FSM indicates that ignition timing is 25 degrees BTDC for a Turbo MPFI AT. But now, my car is NO LONGER turbo. I removed the Turbo, I overhauled the engine with the right pistons to make it a non Turbo Car... An EA82 MPFI Naturally Aspirated. So I'm thinking... Should I then set the timing all the way back to 6 degrees BTDC in this case!!??