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Got it all done. Timing belt was off one tooth on my first attempt, but got it perfect on the second. Runs just fine.

You omitted the "you want to help" rate.

I mean I own 2 300K+ mile original drivetrain ea82s. I have also driven almost that many miles on my ea82s total. I have never had a Subaru axle fail from wear, only boots. If you keep grease in and water out the axles last forever. Aftermarket axles are built like trash, you can usally order 3 and build one good one. I've had stripped threads, bad splines, missing circlips, no grease, and bad clamps. I only buy them when I'm road tripping and tear a boot. I normally bring spares, but not always. Same goes for factory wheel bearings, never had a bad one that didn't have water in it. I re-seal and repack every 50k now.

1. Was the car ever wrecked, even lightly? 2. has it ever had rodent damage (this is not uncommon)? If it’s around farms or food (kids, let’s, urban areas flooded with rodents) - this becomes more probable but it can happen anywhere with mice 3. That custom wiring needs checked. Stock subaru wiring is robust and rarely problematic. There are of course very specific outlier models/years - it should be easy to find out if yours is because they stand out. Most 80s Subarus have all original stock wiring because Subarus are stout....except stereos lol Please don’t hear me criticizing - electrical issues that end up being caused by past electrical work is very high percentage causation. I’ve done it myself and fixed it on other peoples cars 100 times. It’s nearly ubiquitous and I’ve heard “it’s impossible for that to be it”....and then it is exactly that. that step can’t be skipped online with a car we can’t see and know nothing about. 4. Are there 10s of thousands of drivers that do *not* have this issue in 2012? I think the answer is yes. If it’s not yes then the fix and answer to all these 100s of thousands of fault 2010-2012s would be obvious and well known. I don’t think that’s the case so I wouldn’t immediately jump to “My car verified that the Subaru wiring is universally bad”. 5. there are good conversion kits for headlights. GD - user general disorder - has recommended some he uses which means he’s installed hundreds of them. I’d find his post about the brand he uses and go with those. - I currently have a 2012 Outback parked in my driveway right now.

Not all the time, just 1/3 or so. I'm not saying I drive my Legacy like Miles Fox used to drive his trashwagons, but sometimes I might. I do try to avoid jumps nowadays though. It's hell on the suspension when you do it with 500 lbs of crap in the back. I've already had to replace a blown shock which was only a couple years old and several heavily worn control arm bushings, which is rough work I don't want to have to repeat. About to throw some Outback shocks on it now so my exhaust stops scraping inclined driveways. I've driven a number of EJ22 and EJ25 wagons and I'm just not impressed with the OEM clutch power. With the OEM EJ22 disc it's a known issue, but I'm not very impressed with any improvement they might have made on the EJ25. Too much slippage; I'd rather have the engine stall than get hit by that nasty burning asbestos smell of organic clutch ever again. It's probably just fine if you aren't hauling a lot of weight, but I like to use the back of my Wagon like it's a truck bed, and the steep hill neighborhood are likely to be on my itinerary for the foreseeable future. I need a clutch that will grip solidly and keep up with the engine when I need to crank out those high RPMs under heavy load to get the car moving on hills. I know the engine has more power; the weak link is the clutch. Duly noted on the 6-puck clutches. I've also read that before on this forum. I'm tempted to try it to see if I like the extra clutch power, but I'm worried the car will jump like a jackrabbit when first moving and fight the engine too much when shifting if it isn't done perfectly, making the ride rough as you describe. I'm leaning towards a Stage 2 or higher clutch disc with a non-organic material like carbon fiber or ceramic, but which retains the full radius shape of the OEM disc. The EXEDY FJD016CB Stage 2 cerametallic clutch disc mentioned in my OP would be a good example, but I don't want to drop $350+ on a part unless it has rave reviews, and I don't see any on the Amazon page for it. I do see on Amazon a similar ceramic disc in a clutch kit by Southeast Clutch, # 15-004, for about $110. The handful of reviews all seem positive and more than one mentions that the clutch pedal feels the same as stock. If anyone has any experience with non-puck, non-organic clutch discs, I'd be interested to hear about it.

near Portland - http://superiorsoobie.com/ I can only dream about having a shop like that nearby.

Lincoln... as in Welded? Same boat here, no sources for this old stuff. Unless you find something in a junk yard that is in better shape, ya gotta go custom with the welder.

after it sits, pull some plugs and look for the wet cylinder.

Yes, running 10 feet of 5/16, and then necking it down to 3/16 defeats the purpose. T it into the vent line or something (I've been reading up about converting our boat to EFI, and this is generally how it's done). But yea, for testing purposes, into a separate container is fine (you know, fire hazard and such). It won't turn over at all? If so, it may be hydrolocked. Try turning it over by hand, if not, pull the plugs and crank it. Does the ECU control the fuel pump? Or is it staying on when the engine isn't running? I've been approaching this as if it's been just running really rich. But if it's actually filled the cylinder and hydrolocked the engine, then fuel is getting in while the engine is off.

If there is a vacuum line going to the FPR disconnect it and plug the engine side vaccum line. Did you hook up any of the EVAP system if the car has it? If so do the same for it. After those two it has to be injectors. Did the oil smell like fuel before you tried to start it? If so then leaky injectors. If not ecu is flooding for some reason, pull codes.

and some more project Pictures

It's not ridiculous for the guys shearing axle bars in stage rally. The six speed is strong enough to do this. Stock STI axles have been tested at the track and will do approximately 30 hard, sticky launches at stock power before the axle shaft shears off. GD