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Any EA81 models without AC. Look for base model vehicles - sedans and flat top wagons typically. Cheers Bennie

Yea, it'll fit. Adapter plate to an EA82 transmission (better for offroad use), or use an EJ one (better for street use). Custom transmission crossmember. Some creativity/research on front axles. Wiring. Fuel Pump. Some Plumbing. It's been done many times, documented fairly well. I'd call it about a 2 or 3 out of 10 as far as engine swaps. But I'm pretty well-versed in swaps (currently putting a Lexus quad cam V8 in my 4Runner, and did a lot of work helping a friend put a 6.0 LS in his '98 Legacy).

^^^ awesome post

I’m thinking the pinion shaft bearing is dead. This was a common issue on the L series auto. What does you front diff oil look like in colour and texture/thickness? Is there more in there than what it should be? Is the trans fluid still a good red colour or Ian it discoloured? If you have either of these signs I’d say the seal between the front diff and the transmission died, allowing cross contamination of one or both components (diff/transmission). Pinion bearing then dies due to a lack of lubrications. This allows the pinion shaft to start walking as it tries to rotate the front diff. Forward/reverse action will give different noises/movements in the pinion shaft due to the shape of the hypoid diff ring gear (I hope I got that correct from memory!). If you drain the diff oil you *might* be able to get one of those little camera units in to view the pinion gear, have two people rotate the front wheels (car secured and on jack stands, transmission in neutral) while you watch the pinion gear rotate. It should be a smooth rotation with absolutely zero lateral or vertical movement. If it feels crunchy to the two turning the wheels in the same direction this will be a clear indicator things with the front diff are not healthy. If that’s the case, new transmission will be required. Cheers Bennie

If its not the wheel bearings, it could be the carrier bearing (if there is one ) on the rear drive shaft.

Name's not Gary. Trust me there's nothing serviceable in there. Just the tools required to measure, not even considering the experience both using them and properly assembling Subaru short blocks, are more expensive than dropping it off at a competent machinist or reputable Subaru engine builder. GD

Front or rear? They are different. Front are ball bearings, rear are tapered roller bearings. If the axle nut is not properly tightened, with the cone and spring washers properly placed, it's not good. If everything is correct, it is not normal for them to wear out frequently. 150K - 200K miles is not uncommon.

If you can't figure out how to fixture the case such that you can remove the case half bolts I conclude you have no business doing so and there is nothing in there you can successfully repair. Lay down the tools and step away from the precision engineering. GD

If the cables are crudded up they may be slow or sluggish to release at the end that matters. I would have suggested earlier if I read this...try flip the clip and cable end at the caliper before blame the caliper itself. The caliper is overhaul able . But tricky if in a hurry. Two stages to overhaul. Just the piston side is easy enough. The handbrake side I have done with success and that satisfaction that comes with that. Special tool was a 4" G clamp and ceramic tiling tile wedge and grease made for the job

Welcome to the USMB. You should post your question in the New Generation forum.

Hose Diameter - is that dependent on compressor fitting size? Meaning larger diameter is good even if the compressor fitting size stays the same? Seems obvious but I've never thought about this stuff since I got my first compressor a long time ago. Material - I can google this but rubber or hybrid or pcv ?

Jvigue--you should post this question in the Newer Generation forum.