bheinen74

Since you are pulling the intake off, might as well do them both why go thru all that and then have to do it all over again in 20k when the other one leaks.

If you had to wofc (watch out for critters), then you probably should carry one of those small 15 dollar fire extenguishers, cause mice like to feed on wire insulation, which in turn, causes fire at some point when something shorts out under the dash or hood.

it's too late here, but there are hundreds of pages suggesting if there is not title, do not buy that car. I would store it and do nothing on it until you do get a title in your name.

no to weber he is in CA it won't ever pass emissions unless they ignore that old of cars. your front right fender is from something newer, it has the antenna on he right that is a 84 or newer one.

I need to tow dolly a ea82 autmatic 4wd. I am taking along 10mm and 12mm wrenches as well as various other tools to unbolt the driveshaft to the rear diff. I know there are 4 bolts with nuts and lock washers holding it there. I am not quite familiar enough with these ea82 cars. Do you think there is a way i can then pull the driveshaft to the side near the rear diff up and ratchet strap it in place so it doesnt happen to rub on the rear diff input which wil be spinning while i tow dolly the car. How else does the driveshaft mount, any special mount bushing or etc, I will also bring a hog pan to drain the fluid out if need to.. need to dolly the car about 65 miles. any help soon please.

After you spray the rustoleum rust resistant primer then spray with gray "primer sealer". then topcoat. then clear.

if you got access to compressed air nozzle, you can turn it to heat, and aim the air into the center vents right behind the radio. then open it to part defrost and blow more air in. I think thats how i got most of my gunk out (that process sort of backflows up toward the top. ....every once in a while while driving down the road at warp speed and turning fan on high, i can get a little bit more out....

your Weber to Kidney kit is looking good.

with heat temp select to hottest....that way you fill the heater core too, helping remove air.

full of nesting material is most likely. did you say you removed the blower motor and checked where it blows thru the evaporator for junk?

change to a different brand oil, Castrol, Valvoline.....etc. I have read on other forums that the subaru and mobil 1 are not the best combo. You can search over on nasioc and come up with many opinions, but i do know for fact others noted mobil 1 disappears as well. No first hand experience on that, but I run castrol and wll choose it.

did you try to tap it the other way for just a jolt. Sometimes if you give it a whack the opposite way it will cut your penantrant just a little better.

air in the coolant system? before you go any further do the proper burp / belch of the coolant air.

I do not think you would absolutely need to weld, why not epoxy, rivets, screws, etc...

i did find a place online with the correct 165/65R13 ....pm me and i will send the link if you are interested, although i am not familiar with the brands they list they have 5 different brands in that size/ ferox you did not list his correct stock size

It should at least start and groan if you were close. Did you forget to pop on the bigger vacuum line over near the airbox, it is the one hidden up underneath the intake chamber. It wont start if you left that unplugged. look over to the right shock tower, and then under the intake snorkels to find where it hooks in.

Close is not going to work. Needs to be dead on. Are you sure you used the correct marks, there are ticks, and there are arrows, Do you know which you tried to use? Damage, is possible on that motor. Not really a good move risking that motor if you are learning. I am not sure i would want to learn on a interference motor, could be very pricey. Cheaper to pay some shop to do it right. If they don't get it right, it would be there obligation to fix the damage. Good luck. If it was slightly off, probably no damage but you are taking a gamble to learn on this.

better chance of clearing roadkill too.

yeah that sounds normal, there is not enough compression on these little boxers to keep the keep the car from moving/engine turning.

nice BRAT should buff out nice.

I see a hitch on the back. if he had any tongue weight at anytime, then the rear struts are dead. So start with some new struts/springs in back.

the blackout affect is totally RETARDED dumb mf. end of thread. ban me now. You cannot see the lights on that car in rain, snow, fog. The Insurance company should drop that car or at least charge 300% more cause it is unsafe. I will not pay more cause some fool was not seen in a safe time limit when in the rain fog, sleet snow. Learn this fact it is dumb. Another added fact is that whole car is retarded. It cannot be driven in any snow the way it sits. the owner of that type car in general is the same owner writing an essay on nasioc that he spun out in 1/2 inch of snow cause he didnt have the money to buy snow tires. If you really want good lights, go buy some street legal Hellas or Osram bulbs...eot

put i new one on. you will be surprised....

vote for new from Subaru O2 sensor. They go bad with that age and miles and don't throw codes even if they are marginal. Knock sensor too.

rally car.