bheinen74

I know what this thread needs and now: pics of pistons all on a table one pic showing ea71, ea81, ea82, ej18, ej22, and ej25, and maybe a eg33 in there too beuler.

the newer ones are even worse than the old ones. 2 steps backward in the engineering of them for a cold climate. Screws may hold the door rubbers, sure dont work the way the engineers did it.

it is the exhaust ypipe /catalytic converter high heat burning it up. if you have an old license plate, you can use it to make a heat shield between the exhaust and the axle. -or it is the lift they installed was not proper... Does it have crossmember lift blocks? It HAS to have crossmember lift blocks on a ea81. -thats a must

http://www.rightdrive.ca/ has this one for sale for 17,999 its a 555 rally car, not quite 22b right?

does anyone know if the FB25(new block subaru is introducing in the 2011 Forester) is a interference design?

here goes the thread for those of you saying interference will not harm the pistons, or the block. This thread shows what can happen, darn it Subaru, why not stay with non-interference this would never of happened in any ej22 of pre95 So all those posts, saying the block is fine when a t belt snaps, well, here is the pudding of the proof.

I also say buy it back, and if you had 3 new winterforces, go buy another for the 4th, have it installed, and there is always a smuck wanting snowflakes with brand new snows (maybe me) willing to make it worth your time even if a new WF costs 120, you can sell a new set on snowflakes for 400 or so. then sell the drivetrain and what else you can. scooped hood goes for a bills too....etc etc. most electronics including sensors will need to be scrapped. you could always chop the back end off and make it a wheeler. lots of things you could do...just be smart.

Pretty much 101% of us recommend kyb gr-2 Why someone would order Gabriel, or monroe, i have no clue on that thought process. A lot of places mentioned with links, have free shipping on gr-2. There is a big price difference among the distributors posted. check them all out. I have used AJUSA numerous times on different peoples cars, their price is the lowest out there, and the free shipping seals the deal.

man thats cheap.

according to the some 6 or 8 forums i read on this, the answer is heck no its not worth it. get a garmin and get your free updates every year.

timing a tooth off perhaps on a cam?

try going back to oem wires, NGK does not = oem.

are you running oem plug wires? Subarus don't like the aftermarket wires, they are VERY picky when it comes to that. also, depending on your year, it could be a cracked knock sensor that is getting moisture in it....

i recommend as soon as one gets a newer car, to remove the nuts and apply a good coating of antisieze on these boogers, for down the road..

i also say its very likely to be the bulbs. in fact, over on NHTSA there are MANY complaints from newer Subaru owners, of the bulbs lasting a premature life on the newer ones, of which this is considered. For sure, there are NUMEROUS problems with the bulbs going out on that pos style light and the proof is in the high numbers of complaints, enough that Subaru should but won't issue a full recall. oops just read that it was the bulbs...i was on page 1 when i replied didnt see your post on page 2.

nothing is reliable when it takes a bath. doh that really looks bad. is it still in there? those snow flakes are worth going back to get.

oh, forgot to say that the dealers here in Iowa do not recommend to replace the idler pulleys/bearings..... I find that unresponsible for a Subaru dealer to say to not replace them. I am sure other :good" dealers would recommend it, and that is why i would never use a Iowa Subaru service center.

It is probably about due for new headgaskets, no joke. Bet they are leaking oil, again i am serious.

bathroom is great for me to paint cause it has exhaust fan to get out the stinky spray. I should have taken a picture after, the amount of sanding dust, and overspray dust was INSANE on everything in there. it was terrible to clean. and i get to do it again cause the color match is pretty bad...

A stuck or siezing caliper slider pin will also cause the brake pads to hang up and drag cause they cannot slide over when letting off the fat pedal. I would try a different shop next time and make sure they used caliper grease on the stuff recommended. A brake job is not simply removing pads and rotors and replacing them. Its inspecting movement and applying the CORRECT grease where needed, for the pad holders, and the slide pin/pivots. Dont use Midas, or "Just Brakes" for doing your brakes. Most tire shops can be a good source, i have replaced my own brakes, lubricated using correct grease, on all my own cars since 1987. I usually have the rotors resurfaced once, and keep several nos as backups. I find i usually get about 100k miles of driving after my brake jobs.........before the pads are getting to the indicators. I dont ride my brakes and hardly ever do more than ease into my stops. Some people slam there brakes on, and its those drivers that need new breaks every 20k. Not me. Also, I usually 90% of the tims use OEM from the dealer pads, they are much longer lasting than aftermarket, parts store crap that is generic and not engineered for the particular car, weight factors, etc. OEM pads will last 100k. oreillys, autozone, napa, etc those pads will last 50 or less. I like to only spend the money every 100k miles so i pay higher and get the best i can, from the dealer.

I dont see how you will get any needed down travel on the solid axle when its "on top" of the frame rail. Thats going to be noisy as all heck when the axle shaft hits the frame all the time.

firsthand experience, don't buy the lateral link if the bolt is seized in it, go get another that the bolt comes out of. A yard sold my brother the entire crossmember so he could get his lateral links and we simply could not get them out of the crossmember it was seized at the inner bolt, poundeing, heating etc it was seized in the bushing. We took it back and found one car out of 5 at a yard that we could get the bolts out of. Luckily, on my bros car, the bolts came out fine. when you put it back together apply antisieze.

since the ea81 clutch cable direct from subaru is only 12.95, why put something aftermarket on it (as said they are inferior when bought aftermarket).

i use the kitchen sink and a brass bristle brush and the scotchpad.

also check price on them at: http://www.ajusa.com they have free ship http://www.tirerack.com I myself always go with ajusa on stuff like shocks and k&n b