DaveT

For carved & SPFI EA82 I believe the cams are the same. Same bore & stroke also.

My 1987 GL

By the way- the check engine light does not know about the egr system function - only that the solenoid coil is open or shorted or good.

Around here they won't test if the light is on. Replace the solenoid, then see if the other goes away. No crank angle sensor in the modern sense. Think more like old points and disty. Except electronic points.

I got stainless exhaust pipe and flanges from here: http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/ The flanges for the engine, I cut from bar stock with a friend's plasma cutter. Pics of what I did: http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/exhaust.html

I've been using 10w-40 in Ea82s since 1988.

Possible. I have had intermittent TOD also. My guess is that whichever cause is letting air in, or lowering the oil delivery is right on the edge of enough to keep them quiet, vs just enough to cause TOD. It also seems to me, that in the case of air bubbles, it may take a while for trapped air to get pushed out of the lifter.

It may take a good bit of driving before it finally stops. Like a couple hundred miles. I've never timed it. But it has not been as simple as reseal oil pump, start, and it's gone instantly. At least for me.

My 93 wagon [which I recently got running] has had a bit of that wandering left right feel. This thread reminded me of my past experience so I checked the toe in on my 93 today. It was actually toe out. 1-1/2 turns on a tie rod end to make it a hare toe in, and it handles a lot better.

If the toe - in / out is adjusted wrong, it will handle weirdly. I had one that got knocked out when I hit something - it was out enough to destroy tires in less than 100 miles. The tread would de laminate from the steel belts, making a bubble. I ruined a couple sets of good used tires before I realized why. My FSM has instructions on how to adjust it, and it worked. Handled better than ever after that.

A piece of plumbers strap makes a good shim for a better fit with the 1/2 drive.

Get a Toyota solenoid from a scrap yard. It's just the solenoid that is failed. I have Toyota ones from 1988 that still work.

It's just not very convenient when they break. There is no warning, the engine just dies. And you have to get a tow, or a push, or fix it where it is. If you do take them off, and goof up the installation, the worst thing that happens is it won't run. No damage is done.

What part numbers? Where do they put the ride height? I have my adjustable OEM ones all cranked to the high setting.

Rebuilt the engine from my 1987 from the headgaskets up. Installed it in my recently bought 1993 Loyale, which has now passed emissions, and is registered.

Oh, I didn't see it. It is in grey on white, hard to read. I had a 4WD wagon with all the same as yours. Until the frame broke from rust. I would have suggested the vacuum line or lines after the selector buttons.

IF I ever see someone talking about one of these systems who does not describe it using BS pseudoscience mumbo jumbo, and / or demonstrating a complete lack of understanding of basic chemistry, physics, or electricity, [or usually, all 3] I would be more interested in investing my time to experiment. Extraordinary claims demand extraordinary proof. Many of the people making these "cells" talk about frequencies that break the water down using less power than DC. Has any one of them ever run a comparison of 2 identical, one driven with DC, and another driven with pulses [or whatever] ? Side by side, power input meters, gas flow output meters. I've never seen one...

What model car?

I have not seen one comment stating that using hydrogen as a fuel wouldn't power a car..

There is also a chance that mixing the output of the device with the conventional consumption of gasoline that it changes the air fuel ratio or some other aspect. That is entirely different than what is in the video.

First video. I did not take long until the guys talking about powering an engine with water speaking scientific gobledy gook. The small "cells" that were shown do not come close to generating enough Hydrogen & Oxygen to power a car sized engine. Think about your engine displacement. 1.8 L of air gets pumped through it every 2 revolutions at full power. That is a BIG number of CFM. That is how much uncompressed Hydrogen & Oxygen you would need to supply it.

That might explain the single v belt.

Mine all use 2 v belts - 4wd, power steering, A/C. All ea82 engines have 2 timing belts.

That's not long ago, unless you drove it an awful lot... The V belts? if they have cracks or worse, replace them. The timing belts, every 50K miles to be safe. 40K really safe. All 3 Idlers at the same time. Way back when they cost $90.00 each, I made custom ones with replaceable bearings. So I just replace the bearings, for like $9.00 each.