DaveT

Make sure the punch is not small enough to get stuck inside the roll pin! I've read a number of times someone did this, and made themselves a nightmare.

I'm thinking it wouldn't work at all with the lines swapped. It is typical of hydraulic systems to have the high pressure side use a smaller pipe / tube / hose diameter than the suction / return side.

I'd take the 3AT, but it's too far away. Also, I'm mot sure that an 83 is identical to the much "newer" ones I run. 1989 and up. I paid $50.00 for the last one I bought, and I picked it up, along with an EA82 engine for another $50. Shipping would be more than that.

Gunk in the bowl, figure it's in the jets, idle passages, accelerator pump, emulsion tubes, all of it.

For many parts, 1986-1993 parts are the same. The trick is that you have to stick with EA82 powered models for this. There was overlap for a bit, where GL could be what became the Loyales, and the old version of GL. Fewer parts interchange between those. I don't know the specific years, I only list the range I have actually owned and swapped parts with. But they do range a little earlier and I am pretty sure, to 1994.

Have to trace the wire back. See if you can find a schematic. The FSM ones are very detailed. Someone on here may have a scan or a link if you don't have a FSM. I am not sure what else is on the circuit that feeds the choke, but there are likely a few things on it, protected by a fuse. The schematic would help figure out which fuse to check also.

Are the cables OEM, or aftermarket? I've seen many comments that the aftermarket cables are not very good. The big nut looks wrong. There should be a half sphere face in contact with the fork - on the ones I have seen anyway. What is the true color of the area right at the break? It looks discolored. IT seems very odd to me that it broke so cleanly also.

The single pin white and green ones are for various ECU test modes, leave them disconnected. The bigger one is for a diagnostic tool to plug into.

Hard to tell how deep the damage is. ... my guess is it will burn more oil than normal. So use cheap oil. I ran an EA82 for years, that had been overheated, and I did a reseal, but didn't think about the possibility that the oil rings could be shot. It burned a quart with every tank of fuel. I used the waste oil from other cars, mixed with new what ever I found on sale 10w 40. For years.

I would need the FSM diagram to even suggest what you may need or not need. It's been too long since I had a carburetor fed 1986 EA82.

See if you can find a scan of the FSM diagram.

Those PCV ports need to be open. Blow by has to have somewhere to go. Has nothing to do with idle though. The choke should only be fully closed when dead cold and cranking. Once it fires, it should start to open. If it's too closed [or too open] , it won't run well. Once it is up to normal temp, the choke should be wide open.

The choke and fast idle cam work together. The fast idle cam over rides the idle screw. Check the the choke heater and other settings for the choke are correct.

Yeah, that could do it also. Definitely a thing to check. You just need to take the outer wing covers off, not the entire thing. After seeing a number of members running these without the covers, for years, with no trouble, I stopped putting the front ones on. This has saved me trouble - I heard an idler bearing beginning to fail, when I never would have with the covers on.

The good news is that it is a non-interference engine, the valves cannot hit the pistons, so no major damage. Take the cover off that side, and see what's happening. Sounds like the belt is too loose. I found that after I put the belts on, it is good to run the engine for 10 seconds, before completely re assembling everything. Then repeat the tensioner adjustment, as if you just installed them. This lets them walk and settle to where they are going to run. I almost always get more slack out of them.

You have to search the used parts places that use the nation wide system, or hope someone on here has an extra one. You also want to start collecting parts cars, since many parts are no longer available.

If this works, you can open your search up. The EA82 powered cars, from at least 86 GL through 93 Loyale all use the same hubs on the front. Both 2WD and 4WD.

There are seals between the transmission section and the differential section. If they fail, atf will end up in the diff. The diff case will gain oil. It is a pretty bug job to get to them, dissasemble most of the transmission to do it. The other sneaky leak for atf is the vacuum modulator.

The one on the side is for ATF. The one slightly off the other side, from center, is the gear lube for the differential. IIRC, 80W-90 or 85W-90.

The CTS can cause weird idle problems. Normally, makes it go high though. I had the wire to the IAC valve break once, intermittent - It ran fine, but no idle. If I kept a little gas pedal, it would stay running.

The leak I've usually had on those was the gear lube from the differential. No such thing as stop leak for that. If you were 1-2 hours away from the center of CT, I'd consider picking up the transmission if it is working. I got one a few years ago for $50. I run 3ATs in mine - the only way to get many of the parts is by collecting used ones. The same goes for the engine.

The last couple of drives in my 1987 wagon, the engine was idling at 3000RPM. So today, I started troubleshooting the CTS. CTS measures ok. The wire from the ECU to the CTS is good. Ohms to GND is not right. GND to CTS wire is good. Pluged in another tested good CTS, still get weird ohm reading from the ECU signal wire to GND, like the sensor is open. Moved the car between some of this, and now the ECU is giving me the code 21 for the CTS. So the wires check good, the sensors check good... WTF? This 1987 was wired with a round connector for the CTS. All of the other [newer] EA82 SPFI powered cars I've had used a smaller oval shaped connector. The original CTS must have failed a log time back, and when I replaced it, I made an adapter to convert the round to oval, so I didn't modify the harness or the sensor. And I made the adapter from some oval connector that was keyed with the tab lock on the other side, and modified it so it would mate with the normal CTS connector. Except I did not notice that the connector would now go together in either position, which doesn't matter electronically, but it turns out the pins were just resting on the sides of the sockets on the mating half. When I turned it around, they mate properly. Oops! But how long it has run with the flaky connection, is rather surprising. It's not like I was having trouble with it for years.

For a stretch, I had the white wagon wheel rims. THE only place that could balance them was a local Subaru dealer.

Possible - the contact at the top center of the cap broke / went missing. Or the infamous screw that holds the spinning contact came out. NOTE, one version uses a screw, the other the shaft is D shaped, so this can't happen.

Spray carb cleaner down the throttle body for 1-2 seconds. [Pull the boot] Hold pedal at about half. Crank. Might take 10 seconds or so. Does it fire or try to fire?