moosens

Yeah , they seem to be related to the 80’s , mostly early 80’s. Funny to see these young folks digging out little treasures we’ve passed along years ago. Outside chance I might still have one around too. The outer material (Naugahyde ?) tends to get sticky if not kept in a healthy manner.

Can people still take late model cars to shops that can set the mileage back ? Or are the modern vehicles retaining “too much information” and therefore making it impossible to reset miles traveled ?

Old guy advice says just run it under 4K rpm , and if no tachometer then just keep it under 85 for sure. Running constant as you will be you’ll be fine as mentioned previously 70-75mph that whole run and you’re treating it very fairly. Don’t forget good tires are the real limit with old Subarus.

There’s two versions of the EA71. External water passage came first , naturally. Second version with internal water is typically called the “wide case”. Not sure how hot you’ll be over this but I do have an extremely low mile first edition. I’ll be crying when I let it go , which is why it’s not cheap. Send a message thru the board if interested. It’s in CT.

Three guys ? You’re lucky. Two was all we had but the engines were lighter 1400 , 1600’s mostly. We did 1800’s that way too. Another wacky method is if you have some lengthy lumber. Lay your 2 x 6 or whatever over the roof with moving blanket(s) underneath. Hood off , chain it up and lift it out. One man - done it. Ok , let’s hear some more. Knucklebusters we iz.

We started with “Cocaine” and ended with “croak”. Not surprising. Also not surprising how someone had chimed in for the Weber cause. Croak - have to been over to the face dook pages related such as Classic 4x140 ? Gerard there has loads of manuals online as you show - dead link. I’m thinking ask him and he’ll probably have that manual handy and help you out.

Nasty habit you’ve got there , but most acceptable in these parts. Very nice to see. Thanks.

Different. Not much is going to help you for interior or exterior. Maybe engine and tranny depending on what you have. An 81 DL-5 is a 1600. What engines are in each ? That’s is for USA models.

You can do that but there are plenty of Factory parts manuals out there. Those same microfiche show up in old dealer stock. Gerard in Australia probably has them online already. Check before you devote the effort is all I’m saying.

I was smart enough to save all those seals part numbers used when it was done , but they just aren’t handy. Sorry. Parts manual online ? Mine aren’t handy now either.

That’s funny only because it was a timing belt job on an old Loyale that got me on the USMB. I was fairly wizzed off and then driven to do my own repairs.

Challenges like this one can be either side of the sword. Since it would be unreliable and sketchy spend that on beer and a good hand pump or better like a plug in sputter bug. I have hand pumps like “that crazy old guy”. Which I may well be now. To me , they can snicker. I’ve got what I need and the effort isn’t anywhere near what the snickerers think it is. Of course I’m talking the large T handle canister pumper , with gauge. Not some candy butt crap.

Oh holy sheet that’s awesome. moose Nova Scotia

Or please ask and don’t be afraid to bump your post up to the top again should you get no replies. One or two times doing that and for sure one of us catches on and at least keeps you company. Sorry , my 80’s parts are no longer with me. Good luck with it.

Much easier method - someone will post the link. Car-Parts.com or something like that. Here it is: http://www.car-part.com/mobile/index.htm

I’m thinking he’s eliminating the air ride. I would hope so. We just did it and I was tempted to do the compressor thing but I don’t have time and it’s not a woods car. Others have done it going back a good 15 years now. Do a search. You’ll probably find more info. Like our man said , a little compressor knowledge and some fittings , you could be king. Good luck.

Frikkin non-Italians !!! It’s Car doe nay. That is IF you’re trying to pronounce it as Italian. But honestly , I’ve had these same strange thoughts and to put it behind me I just figure it to be Care Done - as in “ I gots my car done , yo”.

That’s a touring wagon. Ain’t seen one up here these past few years. There were 1500 of those in the States.

77 there is the Stage one and Stage two difference. Which style is yours? I have a few , but if someone else has what you need go for it. My stuff is in storage and it’s too cold now. Warming up tomorrow so if I get lucky at storage I’ll post back.

Geez , I’m sorry to ask but I’m pretty sure there’s going to be a line of folks wanting to know. Why did you need a tranny from half way around the world ? Best of luck with it. Personally , I’m thinking you’re doing the right thing sticking with FWD. Enjoy !

Lastly , brake lines and the passenger side floor/sill.

Nah , I vote to clean it up proper , including removal of the “jerk” decal. Seriously , I can see your left fender about to burst with rust at the top. This is VERY common. You want to take the time and remove the both of them and clean and prep as best as you can paying attention to shedding water. Subaru put a foam strip in there to reduce vibration noise. That acted as a sponge - Not Good - and even the “no rust zone” cars suffer this malady. Also , being a GF you have a 5spd. Consider this a minor treasure. Pretty sure there’s several of us here who would be really upset if you started messing around with this car and taking it away from originality. Not that we matter , but hoping you’ll see some light and make your own conclusion. While we’re at it , you also want to immediately remove the cowl ( that grill thing in front of the front windshield ) and get down in there and remove any pine needles , leaves , etc. Right down to the paint and/or rusting metal. This is the second MUST GET TO area. If you see that any paint is gone proceed to look for pinholes using a flashlight or daylight while you are inside with the carpet pulled back looking all around under the dash especially on the passenger side. Then go around each wheel well and inspect for rust where the tires throw the slop around. Enjoy it !

After looking better at your pics I have to speak my piece. It’s only that original once. You’ve found something others would cherish. So before you kill that aspect of it , consider throwing it out there for sale and make some money to put towards a true project car. You’re choice , enjoy it either way.

The Mississippi Meteor sure looks cool with the rack , rust , and Gulf color. gfdan , I hope you’ll leave it stock too. 2.2 as a last resort. The 1600’s are reliable and can give you enough GO to be happy enough. It’s obviously not going to be a really cool and fast car. But you can enjoy it being cool.

Takes about one to two minutes to remove the door skin and I’m pretty sure you’ll see what I’m talking about. Your last statement didn’t make too much sense to me. Do the 95-99’s lock from either side ? To me there’s only one switch capable of locking/unlocking the other doors. The drivers. Sorry if I didn’t see something. I do own a 97 but haven’t touched it yet as there is work to do first. So I’m not really used to the 95-99 controls.