moosens
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1974 GL Coupe Restoration
moosens replied to Zoriak's topic in Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
Interesting. Best of luck with it. I'm about to send a similar condition set of the same seats out west , less a drivers seat. You'll have to get yours doctored up because finding any drivers seat in mint condition is impossible. I have for sale a coupe fuel filler door. And an early style gas pedal too. I have some locks for doors and trunk. Hmmm , more if I can dig but it's winter so no promises. Some of us here started with these vintage cars quiet a while back. There's myself and a few others who have gotten small lots of new old stock from closed out or elder dealerships. I also have those tail lights complete. Have new side markers and turn signals. Etc... We'll talk soon. Cheers! -
Show off your roos Mileage!
moosens replied to beataru's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
My own current daily driver is up around 279k Just a baby. -
Show off your roos Mileage!
moosens replied to beataru's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
As long as this thread continues to pop up I'd like to point out I should have a post way early in this thread , about "the professor". A guy in North Salem NY who by now has almost certainly moved to retirement or is no longer with us. It was a great experience my several meetings with this gentleman. And like I posted , his wife backed up his statements. One hatchback - over 1 million miles and he said up to 450k still had all original components associated with the engine. He would not allow me to contact Subaru on his behalf. He was not a Subaru fanatic only. He had a few vehicles of much interest. I hope he is still going strong. I've had a few thoughts about the guy recently. Usually that means I'll see his obituary or sometimes I run into that person. He's got to in his 90's now. Hope you enjoy the read. Absolutely not a speck of BS in there. Cheers !! -
Pardon my ignorance but you didn't have one in the brat already to follow? Or to measure one against the other? Understandable if that's the case. Things happen. Hopefully you got a good one as many aftermarket cables just bite. I think TSK is the brand Fuji used on our Subarus. Anyhow .... The sling hanger to me is very important. Rather than go through the whole deal I'll just tell you I'm pretty sure we need the cable going over the steering shaft and not under. That's the typically confusing part. And to me the sling hanger verifies that necessity. Pedal end has a small bracket that holds the cable. Take that off , hang the cable slug in the pedal end , and with keeping a little tension as to not lose the slug from the pedal , get that retainer bracket over the provided rubber cable bushing and the bracket should look snug with a lip of the rubber cable bushing showing on each side of the bracket. Once on go through the routing in reverse. Double check the bracket , slug , cable through firewall grommet (free passage and good seal so not cold breeze on toes) , then hang the sling - spring goes up to a thin sheet metal bracket , then adjust the throw.
- 4 replies
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- Clutch cable
- 1979
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Pardon my ignorance but you didn't have one in the brat already to follow? Or to measure one against the other? Understandable if that's the case. Things happen. Hopefully you got a good one as many aftermarket cables just bite. I think TSK is the brand Fuji used on our Subarus. Anyhow .... The sling hanger to me is very important. Rather than go through the whole deal I'll just tell you I'm pretty sure we need the cable going over the steering shaft and not under. That's the typically confusing part. And to me the sling hanger verifies that necessity. Pedal end has a small bracket that holds the cable. Take that off , hang the cable slug in the pedal end , and with keeping a little tension as to not lose the slug from the pedal , get that retainer bracket over the provided rubber cable bushing and the bracket should look snug with a lip of the rubber cable bushing showing on each side of the bracket. Once on go through the routing in reverse. Double check the bracket , slug , cable through firewall grommet (free passage and good seal so not cold breeze on toes) , then hang the sling - spring goes up to a thin sheet metal bracket , then adjust the throw.
- 4 replies
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- Clutch cable
- 1979
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(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
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I found that making a perimeter seal solved leak. I used 3M rubberized tape , sorry I don't have the product model number. There are only a few sources of sunroof leaks. We were getting just enough leakage to soak the ceiling liner in that area and were also getting damp front carpeting. Inherited this from the previous owner - friends mom - so first thing I did was check the drain holes and read about possible causes.
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Crap , did I forget ?? Just too busy then too burnt out from being too busy..... And yeah , EA71 and EJ22 F the rest. Lol Cheers Hey , wow for the weather!!! Got a snow storm/blizzard thing , had a blast in the old 78 - see post in 90's forum , but it's looking like might be time for early spring. Much to do there at storage. I see Brat jump seats selling at decent numbers ,,,, ship Earl's Coupe seats , sell stuff like mad .... The usual dreams. Lol Todd , maybe tonight on my shift.
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You can cut the housing on the ea81's -
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Yes , and they sit right near the front. You're going to see them this year , this spring , or this winter..... Have the rear upper and lower and the passenger front. They'll go Greyhound. I'll ship , you can pay when you get them. Earl my brother , I just had to pass on Brian from MT's tailgate wagons. But please keep an eye open for me for one or an early coupe or stage one 4wd wagon over the coming year(s). My son is likely going to college out west so you will eventually see me out there and I'm sure I'm dragging something back east. Cheers ! And happy frikkin new year !!
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1100's and 1300's getting just about impossible to find. I hope somebody takes you up on the offer but I doubt there's anybody here that will. Several of us here have come across old dealer stock and there's often old 1100 and 1300 bits. Always wanted to rebuild one. I'm pretty sure one or maybe two engines are still in ctsuba's old stock but I'm not sure what's going to happen with the guy who took over his stuff after he died last year. The 1300 boxer was once explained by scientist type dudes to be the most efficient gas engine that could be produced! And they had barely any issues from overheating and head warp like the 1400 did because they removed too much material when boring to 1400 spec. An interesting and viable piece of Subaru history. Probably will go to scrap but so it goes. Good luck on the new engine. And hell yeah post pics ! Roosting ! Lol
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Nothing wrong with that ???? These days the only car I have to toss around freely on icy no winter maintenance roads is my 78 wagon which itself still needs help before I can join you. But my son and his friend really want to get involved in such hooliganism , I'm sure. Lol I just got him an old lady 92 FWD Legacy sedan replacing his 99 2.2 sedan, which was AWD. That one would be fun to beat on. I'm going to further inspect it but I'm pretty sure it's not getting better with a few parts over the counter ..... Engine swap or nothing the way it looks. Anyhow ... Send me a PM thru here or email me at moosens , yahoo , you know the deal. Just put Subaru Winter Fun in the title so I don't delete it. Lol We just let go of a 96 Impreza and now it's in Subafreak's hands so it'll probably run another 20 years.
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Timing – distributor timing
moosens replied to Jeffg8912's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Interesting ! Jumping into the pool blind here I'll guess you are looking to get proper ignition timing. Lots of archives here. Make sure the cap is on correctly and the correct one for your distributor. Old school there are ND and Hitachi. NGK wires and plugs are top dog Making sure the cap shows #1 to the front passenger side take out spark plug #1 and hand crank the engine with a 22mm socket and put a finger over the open hole as you crank. When you feel pressure against your finger that is the compression stroke. Now you need to fine tune. Get something that won't break to go into the plug hole and using the crank - not making rotation - gently going back n forth find where the piston come to its peak of travel by watching the object you used. Once you are comfortable your there if the cap is on correctly and wires too you should start right up. Hope that's what you needed.
