bushbasher

I went with a 6" lift and wish I'd gone a bit further. I used a different tcase that sits up there pretty high, but the front diff hangs lower than I'd like. I even ground down the tranny drain plug to get my diff packed as high as possible. Now with 31" tires I have about 13" of front diff clearance compared to 15" under the rear diff and maybe 16" under the t-case.

You know what, I happen to have a turbo manifold off an 87 turbo wagon in my shed that I have no need for. Theres also an 85 or 86 turbo sedan at RCU auto in sooke. Either way, you guys should stop by and check out my ru, and I'll come along. I sorta know Roland, the guy that runs the place. He's always amazed at how fast I disassemble his subarus You should call RCU to make sure its there, I'm 99% sure it will be, and probably untouched as well. 642-1524 is his #

Haha thats classic!

sounds like a plan... I'm free on saturday and my rig is operational enough to give you a ride through my backyard. Definitely shoot me a PM

A 3door would look cool, but using an RX (especially a beauty like yours) would be a huge waste. I know you're just kidding anyways though Right????

dammit you guys, you're giving me turbo envy

Sorry guys, but nitrous oxide is not flammable as you think. It takes conditions like inside of the engine for it to become useful. This is why they use nitrous oxide and not pure oxygen injection. Pure oxygen would be dangerous to have outside of the engine compartment. If he is spraying nitrous oxide on his intercooler, its using the fact that the nitrous oxide comes out of the bottle extremely cold, due to the refrigeration effect you get when you let the high pressure liquid in the bottle expand into a gas. He could be using c02, nitrogen, it doesnt really matter.

why not just do a complete ea82t swap, block and everything? Its been done, and with mods you could be running mid 100s for hp.

Sweet car Will! The WRX goin for a little bounce in the ditch had me laughing pretty hard. "ooh, better get behind a rock" I've been there before, as a spectator and as a driver. I left the gravel the other day in my buddies rabbit, but I just held on the gas and managed to bounce back out (hey, its $100 beater okay)

double doj rear axles and longer shock absorbers (applies to ea81s but ea82s benefit from double dojs as well) rear disc brake conversion welded diff dual front ebrake (front cutting brakes) skid plates and bumpers winch custom longer travel front struts

a 36" TSL on the front of a tubed out jeep. I stopped before making it to the top, wasnt quite confident of the new COG my wagon has.

Im not so sure about that I have 6" of pipe off each head, and that is pretty frickin loud. Its just temporary, I needed something better than open heads to bomb around my backyard.

to use a yota case you need a kit to make it a divorced unit. Normally toyota cases bolt onto the tranny. You cant bolt them onto a sube obviously. Early nissan cases are divorced and even use the same driveshaft flange pattern as a subaru, so its a convenient swap. the nissan case is easily strong enough for anything a subaru can dish out (well so far...)

I've done it before, with a welded diff its no biggy as long as you can get your fender around the tire you're going up. I had to approach the tire at an angle and turn the wheel into it to get on. On the diff issue, a welded diff is more likely to break stuff, but thats also a sign that it helps more With your tires I wouldnt worry about it too much. I've been dropping the clutch on a welded diff with 30s in the back of my wagon and the trailing arms cranked down, broke some axle shafts because I welded to them, weakening the hardening. After I put new shafts in I havnt had a problem. Besides, rear axle parts are dirt cheap and quick to replace. A welded diff has got to be the single best improvement you can make to your suby. Traction wise it is easily as big a difference as going from stock tires to 28" off-road tires. Since you almost always have a rear wheel in the air when you're twisted up, welding it will give power to that one wheel thats still on the ground.

A carb won't run as well on steep angles, doesnt give the ideal mixture through the whole rev range. All the EFI connectors on my wagon have rubber gaskets and dielectric grease, and even if a sensor fails, as long as its not the MAF the car can still limp home. The EJ is the best motor subaru has ever made. The ea81 was simple, reliable but not very powerful, the ea82 was their first attempt at OHC, and is not the most reliable, though it has a bit more power. The EJ was when they got pretty much everything right. Excellent power, excellent reliability.

Hey guys, I have a question. If I just want to run MS and use the stock ecu for ignition initially, what sensors does the stock ecu need to be working with? I have a reasonable knowledge of subaru EFI but not so good of the ignition. This is for the SPFI in my wagon, but I'm also thinking of MPFI turbo in the future.

I personally don't think theres much difference performance wise between all the body styles. They are all nearly identical underneath. The hatch has a shorter wheelbase and rear overhang, but thats all thats really different. Really the only big choice is the ea82 vs ea81. I prefer the ea82 motor, its a bit racier and fuel injection is a plus off-road. I dont like mud much so timing belt worries dont bother me as they would others. I also prefer the ea82 exterior and interior. But to think that an ea82 powered rig could go where an ea81 couldnt or vise versa is wishful thinking. I just enjoy the ea82 more. My ideal rig using only subaru drivetrain would be an ea82 wagon with ej22 power, going to a 5spd DR with a 4-6" lift and 29s. A modded ea82 turbo would be equally awesome (Hey vanislru, I think I just described your rig ) If we're talking bastard creations, it would be a bobbed ea82 wagon with a nissan t-case and fully custom r180 IFS/IRS setup welded front/rear, wearing 33s. The nissan IFS hubs would be used all around, so I could unlock the front for the road. again, ej or ea82 turbo power.

You do know when they are going to tip, that guy was just a moron. You feel the suspension start to unload at the top and you stop going forward. With a flexy vehicle you will notice sooner but the suspension is spongy and once it starts unloading you're on your way over anyways... Theres no real difference in the end, your vehicle will still have the same maximum angle it can handle.

well, they do get upgraded birfields (CV joints in the front axle), called longfields, profields or smurfields etc.

Hey I'm not knocking it, I'd love to have one. But for serious obstacle and hillclimb work it would not do well. As a snow/mud/rally/hooligan car it would be sweet. Especially with more power.

Wow, thats alot of hammering My camber is less than desirable but i just said the hell with it, its not the end of the world. I have no suspension lift in the front but my custom a-arms ended up about 1/4" shorter than stock on each side, so that didnt help.

Sammy front axles start to have troubles at 31-32" when they are welded/locked in the front and the guy driving them beats the **** out of them on grippy rock. I've seen guys that don't mash things running 34s open diff on the front without probs, and I've seen guys breaking them on 31s, but they are the guys that put the pedal to the floor and need an exo to protect them when they inevitably put it on its roof or side (or tailgate )

I'm actually leaning towards samurai axles for that wagon. They would suit the smaller gen 1s better. Samurai axles would be fine with 31s since your wagon probably isnt even breaking the 2000lb barrier and you've only got 70-odd hp. Plus, the samurai case is small and divorced and will mate flawlessly with the zuk axles. The shaft from the tranny to the tcase can be mix and matched from samurai and subaru parts because the u-joint size is the same. The nissan case is not an ideal choice for using a solid front axle. The front axle will be offset whereas the front output of the nissan case is centered. It can be made to work, but a complete sammy setup would be my choice. Plus you've got gearing options with the sammy case. 86 and up are the strongest sammy axles, but pre 85 axles have the lowest gearing.

It reminds me of the ferrari 330 p3/p4 and the porsche 917. I am really partial to the ferrari 330 p3 and p4, as well as the lamborghini muira. I got a chance to see a muira up close and the fender lines are the sexiest of any car I've seen.

The concept is sweet, but with aluminum you'll sure have your work cut out for you. I personally would go with steel for the frame, and an aluminum body would be awesome. Aluminum is not very practical though, it dents very easy, and doesnt have as much memory as steel, so it can get wavy just from people leaning against it.