electryc_monk

initially speaking that its in the stering collumn, the left sided arm where the switches are..... I'll wonderingly bet that there might be a loose wire connector? OR a loose wire or corrodided wire in line aroudn the headlight controlls up under the hood?

when it fired back up was it in gear and thus lurch forward? if you can shift in and out of gear then..... i doubt it.... actually i doubt it weither way to be honest. A few years back (Xmas of 1998) i had the cable break on me. granted i was super lucky and only like 4 blocks from the Aunt and Uncle's house. The only Bad thing i did was actually push the shifter arm up forward till i could fee the car start to roll forward (at idle). So glad So-Cal strets in that are were supper flat ground. yeah and it then "popped" into 1st (almost a chirpping lurch forward. then i did the "speedshifting into 2nd" and third. i knew those RPM ranges like clockwork so it was safe... just had to time the street lights "just so".... and i barely did. but the "into their parking lot" it was ummm a bit mean. I slipped into the lot in a lugging 2nd and then as soon as i was "this close" to their house i raised the RPMs up just enough to pop outta gear and coast in. Killed the ignition and then in neutral i slid into a spot. Then i goto swap a clutch cable then next day after i long long waste of time riding the OC RapidTransit system. LOL gawd it was a 4.5 hour round trip and used 4 different busses to get to the subie dealership and buy the clutch cable they actually had in stock. and it took m about an hour to install as I recall. sooo yeah sorry for the tangent.

I think I can say rather certain the #4 is a major grounding point! #3 I'm not sure... but I'd also check the fuse block too.

"DOH!"

On the heads, front side of the exhaust port is cast into the metal is the lettering "EA82" find it - it WILL be there: Gen one = EA82 only gen two = EA82 "UNDERLINED" gen 3 = EA82 IN A BOX and thats the way to check. if you look at the pdf those are the only "cracks" allowed... and from what I understand their fine... how ever the cracks elsewhere aren't allowed.. from what I've head/seen. I'm no expert by ANY stretch of the imagination but, i have learned a thing or two from folks like Morgan, Skipper, Dr. RX and PAganQWA sooo yeah... among the many.....

well to be blunt.. its only a simple "almost" S shape. IT is either right next to or just below the speedo cable in the firewall. and it rides up the backbone of the tranny to the fork. The opther cable on the fork will be the HillHolder that arc's around thru the intake and down under the MAstercylinder... That is IF you have the HH installed or in use. Given that this is the heabvily mod'ed car right? its actually a rather easy install.... just be flexible to get up under the dash to do the swaping of the cable to the pedal. And for mental relaxation... as its snapped... you'll do easier if you can pull the cable husk and gromment out from the engine bay and leave whats left of the actual cable thru the hole and attached to the pedal.... Then climb under the dash and use your hand and pull the broken metal cable back thru the hole towards ya and leave it attached to the pedal then feed the new cable assembly thru the hole that way hyou have the cable pieces together and pull of the "pin" and thn slide the new in place while you up under the dash and have the "pin" and parts in yer hand. and you then can climb back out and go back under the hood for connecting to the fork and then set the grommet and your done. hope that mentally works for ya... as that's how i did it several years ago. sounds long but really it isn't/./

i just uploaded a picture .. JPEG of some of what I had been "playing with lately... its in my album main page...

first i think this is supposed to be in the MArket place.... second I'm not able to even consider it but I'm sure folks will be wanting to see a picture or two ... heckl I'll admit that I am curious as to what the Black/grey look is like after all I have only seen a picture of one pblack on a long time ago.... thats all from this end.

there was a *VERY* recent thread on this very topic not a month ago... the member was talking about the spare XT rack was "Different" then their wagon's and wondered if it would work.. turns out it does fit, just had a slight , read minimal mod??? I can't recall exactly what... but it was ... dang done so recently and here I was wondering what the end result of that swap was .... nice timing Toybuilder... maybe a search will link you up to it>????

the half shafts are up tight against the hubs as necessary. the castle nuts are on tight and pinned. the suspension is all bolted solid, except I am wondering about the slight seperation I see with the lower balljoint and the hub. They are not "rubber boot" seated 100% and yet they appear tight up against the hub. I guess that would be the first part to replace to see *IF* that helps? I'm still curious as to the hub barrings and barring/races. You know? Hey DNEET - there isn't any bad juju with the halfshafts, they are still in nearly exxcellent repair. Even the most silent of sounds from a halfshaft are not detectible... of the bad and diing variety - i mean... but thanks for the link awareness nunthwless.

has all known links that are subaru photo's are on this page that are of my girls: Silver D/R'agon Babe the Blue OX snowdart and the "might offically become mine" gen-1 brat my geositing site the LINKS are obvious too! nuff said.

That depends on which FT4WD you have ... Auto or Stick? If its Auto I can talk ya thru it without a FSM... if its stick... its off to the FSM for a looksee..... I have a reverse switch on the gear shifter from the auto to D/R 5spd conversion i did back in 2K springbreak.

nationwide salvage yards search for air struts i used this for the following data fields: 1988 Subaru XT Strut assembly ALL states Then i opened a second window before I clicked on the "Search" button. that way on the next window i could search one for the left and one for the right. well there are prices from $50 each on the left and prices from $65 on the right these are front struts some are air ride there is one place that has them both ... 1989 Subaru XT AIR ADJUST 3H0089 $100 for each side Universal Auto Recycling USA-CO(Englewood) if you do this search you can do a right click on their NAME and it'll open up to the site. and then there is this place with one a little bit cheaper: 1989 Strut Subaru XT LH 2WD, 6 Cyl-LH AIR TYPE U A4151 $75 A1 Auto Wreckers USA-CA(San-Jose) Truck# 1-800-825-0064, Car# 1-800-997-3254 or this #1-800-459-5865 i have found that the usual shipping charge is about 20-25 per single shock... and i'll bet if you talk nice they may even cut back on the shipping and even cut you an few dollars of the 'NEt price.... I've had this happen on more then one occasion . ... Karma is a good thing. And well its spreads the happiness when you can help other like now. so if you'd rather go all 4 springs then you could also call thouse on the list that is at the bottom of the search list to see what they charge as the price says "$Call" which means that sometimes it a rare cheapy or they end up being "very proud of their parts" AKA near dealership new costs :>) best of luck.... but before you invest in the struts you may only need to replace the o-rings in the airline on top of the strut or in the solenoid??? never hurts to listen to the system as it inflates to see if you really do need to replace the strut.....

its almost completely nullified when you hit the brakes. And by nullified i mean its a smooth brake pedal. The vibration stays in the wheel and disappears once you hit the brakes OR at least start a turn. I can't be 100% certain but I believe that it increased slightly a few times when i let off the gas while driving on the freeway. And a few more tidbits... (sorry i just remembered) by the time i got back up here there were a couple times i had to slow down fast and those were just fine. The speed back up also had a couple times where the vibration occured thru a wider spectrum of speed starting as early as 65 and extended up to 78. (The other wagon had a warped front disk so i do recently know what that feels like and this is different.)

rotors are just fine and dandy. no warpage at all, infact the pads are somewhere near 75% usable too and there is no need for them to be turned either. In fact i doubt these have been turned yet... still alot of meat on them. hmmmmm as for the out of round issue..... that is very curious thinking. (scratches head in consideration)

if the car has front end vibration and there is a definate harmonic to it then isn't this indicative of a tire or rim? The mild vibration (and you have to be looking for it too) shows around 34-38 mph the noticable vibration is initially at 70-74 mph and its wired to me for it *Feels* like its on the drivers side front wheel as the left side of the steering wheel is whats feels more noticable. Now on the drive down to Fort Worth to help a friend move on Sunday. the vib's seemed to dissapear going into any left turn as long as it was an actual turn or curve. The vibe would significantly lessen if it was a right hand turn but not dissapear totally like a left hand turn. Here are the specifics of removing doubt for possible suggestions: The halfhshaft are nearly pristine have about 5000 miles on them, no rips,tears or otherwise. no clicking or popping at all. The castlenut is right snug in there and the pin is still inplace. The back side of the hub looks like the passenger side so it doesn't "look" like its not fully squeezed into the hub... The tires are under warranty via discount tire and just ohh two weeks ago i had them rotate and rebalance them after that round trip to Burning man back in august. (They did notice that one of the tires had lost a wieght but it was only an once so it should be fine. I looked at the lower balljoints sunday, they look solid, and don't see any rips or tears in them, and felt tight. (looks at Calebz) Do you remember anything from when we did the lift that made you think that these would need to be replaced I sure as heck can't remember if we talked about it or not. As for alignment there is a slight pull to the left on the freeway but I'm talking gradual, and after about ohhh 3-4 football fields it crosses the striped line into the fast lane. I got a sneaking suspision its probably the baljoint? and needing an alignment, maybe? I feel like there is something over looked. Or maybe there is a barring that is on its last legs???? Maybe the playa dust got to the hubs???? It is an alkaline dust lakebed. I honestly couldn't tell you if these are the original hub barrings or not. when i did the swap back in 2000, we used acid brushes and old toothbrushes to clean out the old grease. Then we used rubber gloves and purged new grease into the front barrings on both sides of each hub. When i replaced the half shafts i would clean the top layer off of the old grease and lay on a fresh dosage and cleaned and looked at the seals. very playable, clean and in good standing so I left them alone... i will go and seriously inspect them today and them if its different reply here with that data. I'm sorry but, I'm feeling rather "not withit" lately as there is alot on my plate right now and its getting almost opressively heavy (metaphorically speaking). Thansk for your ptience and consideration. [

I had delt with Williams in MSU's back yard before heading to Texas.... Pleasant service folks. The Folks in Kazoo, hehehe well lets just say that they A$$umed on a situation that caused them to look rather inept in my book back when i first got the 86 wagon and had to have them fix the speedo cable. IT turned out that it was a split the tranny case only option to replace the plastic part that the cable goes into! LOL they knew I was leaving for California on day "X" and that ment they had 30 days to order the part and then let me know when it was in to drop off the car for themn to do the work. turned out they had to do a lot of hunting in salvage yards for a donor D/R tranny as they broke a part of it and had to do a temp. fix so i could goto Cali and when i return they would finish the job....... sorry but it was weird driving round trip with only a RPM gauge and i knew the gas milage. Thankfully the gas guage work just fine otherwise it would of been really neveracking to do that trip. gotta love CB's and manual cruise control's.

the link is in stealth mode.... so for now I'll go to ebay and look for the closed auctions with subaru to see if i can find said XT6 sticker in a picture :>) until later......

but having just said that .... I've never had to drop one. There is this nice little tar-sealed plate in the rear floorpanel of the wagon on the passenger side that has a few screws that hold it down. lift it up and away and you'll see the place where the fuel is drawn from. Make sure to clean/vacuum/ blow all the excess dirt/dust from the area under there before you try to unscrew/unbolt the sealing plate on the tank (which is under this panel you just unscrewed) oh an um don't forget to disconnect the battery before you play with this area :>) that way you don't need to drop the tank.... you see? anyone else see the logic in this?

what ever the "stamped PSI rating is for max. i usually set it there for around the town and what have you.but, for the roadtrips... I usually go 2-5 over currently the 185/70r13 has a SI max of 35 so its at 35 now..... for the raodtrip they usually get 38-40 all around. but i don't let it go over 5+ max... persona preference.... your results may vary.

*.mil and *.gov no such places. :>) now if you wanted the http://www.usmb.com it is open for use...... BUT, you won't be seeing the http://www.usmb.org/index.cfm available in this lifetime i dare say..... its a Mennonite spiritual site

i do know of a XT with what apears to be no rust down here in Texas... its white but its nothing special just an XT and its only 2WD as well...... but the body is very straight.......

I'd suggest swap to a 180 for the winter... you can always swap back to a 165 in the spring... IF you desire that is....

perhaps the tank has alot of sediment collected over the years and the hose in the tank settles inan area of heavy sediment when its wheeling heavy or pulling hard.... maybe that is a viable direction to look into - serious thought here. I have a large inline filter from tank before the pump on my turbo unit even though they "don't have one factory wise" I just copied the pattern from my old GL carb'd setup with had this setup and figured eh couldn't hurt to have 2 filters inline.... as for the ECU codes.... two green connected ing. off then turn on ign to "on" and all dash lit up and sitting ofr like 30-45 seconds. then i think the single black pair get plugged in with ign off and then turn back on allows the codes to be read. to clear the coades i disconnect the green and then battery for about 2 or three minutes and that usually does the trick.... but i haven't had to do this in a year soooooo i may have the black wire issue reveresed????

I won't roadtrip without one! I admit that the Cobra brand that are used buy over the road drivers ALOT are nice and stable and rock solid and have Cadillac appeal for the longevity of use but, I also admit that the Pro V. Con debate over radio shack is vald too. my experience: Currently have 2 different CB's in the two sub's both radio shacks the best experience is the 12 years i got from the then $129 model which had WX bands on it and a PA. ...that thing worked flauwlessly and I also own a SWR meter for "tuning the antenna to the CB" well the two CB's i have now are both using built in calibrating dials for SWR *balancing*. magneting mounting antenna on the wagon and a trunk lip mounted unit on the XT6. as for the range dialogue on location of the roof for mounting.... the theory I learned about RF communication is that to have the maximum range in front og you on a car the antenna needs to be at the rear of the highest place on it, there by aiding in the directional "boosting" of its reception (so-sto-speak) now here is my logic jumpoing in and asking that comment ot explain why to the cab-over trucks use just the mirror arms as mounts and still get "supposedly better or equal range then my cars setup?" And the responce to that was antenna is higher off the ground, there is more metal mass - thus more opportunity to recieve RF then the lower to the ground car antennas. you deside. your car, your money.... every time i have had to buy a new one over the years it alwasy seemed to be onsale and the Shack dude or dudette gave me a killer deal on the antenna as well. Personally I won't buy a CB thats listed for under $70 its just not going to have the reange... we have tested it when i was in the navy with several buddys on roadtrips to Miami and North Carolina from Jacksonville NAS..... Unidens have never in my experience been units to have any range of use. never heard an over the road driver talk goood about a uniden either.