AlpineRaven

The exhaust ports is single on the EA81/EA82 whereabouts on EJ series has dual ports (2 outlets left and right and merge into the pipe about 4" down.) Why would you weld it? get whole assy from an EJ series. Cheers AP

I could be wrong, I think you have bigger roters discs than 15" models since it has to meet Turbo requirements, I don't know, why wouldn't you downgrade from 16" to 15"?? Forrester has different offset but you still can use them on Legacys as I've seen people doing that. Cheers AP

On RS Legacy's LSD Diff, how do I find out if its VLSD or Clutch LSD because there is no sticker on the case? And do RS Legacy come with Clutch or Viscous LSD? Oh yeah which one is better Clutch or Viscous LSD? Thanks AP

I use 1/2" Drive to undo mine (yes down here in Australia), its easy and I don't need any extra tools. Cheers AP

Thanks!!! I'll have a look after work today, I have to remove the glove box do I? Cheers AP

Turns out to be idler bearing because the noise came and go all the time, got fed up with it and installed new idler and its fixed now. Cheers AP

On my 1995 Liberty (legacy), is there an filter for Air Conditioning? Someone who had a ride with me other day said that the filter needs replacing as he could smell it after i turned off the air cond (It does smell for a little while and it stinks). So i wanna some directions, is there one? if so, can you tell me where it is? Cheers AP

I replaced mine a whole ago, i was trying to figure out... and spoke to subaru mechanic he said it doesn't matter on EJ22 engine. Not sure about other EJ series engines. Cheers AP

I bought motul for gearbox and LSD diff, works well I believe, noticed the difference with old oil. Cheers AP

Fair enough I've thought about doing that but nah, There is a few from ebay, maybe further away wreckers may have them? Where are you from as I have a set of 14" steelies from Liberty here. Cheers AP

awesome! wish I could do that like that but pity I live in Australia heh. Cheers AP

I used the start motor trick, did not remove the radiator fans at all, just left it as bleeding it is a pain in the arse. Cheers AP

For me with Subaru belt is 100,000 kms (62,000 miles) I replaced after 100,000 kms on my EJ22 and it was still in good condition. Cheers AP

What is your main reason you want Subaru for? - to go off road/gravel/bush driving? Or Snow or wet inflected areas? or road safety with AWD? For me, I own an 1995 Liberty (same what you call Legacy there) 5MT AWD and the main reasons were - I live in the country and it can be wet varies of days, also lives on a farm, needs 4WD/AWD and I feel lot safer with AWD plus I grew up with Subaru. Cheers AP

Wheel balance? Cheers AP

Ive seen a few of them at the wreckers, pictures and heard stories about Subaru engines going like that, what really caused it?? Loss of Oil? Oil not matching heat range? or very worn bearings? Blocked oil sleeves (where the rods are there is a small hole to feed oil into)? Cheers AP

wow... you've put all the effort on it, yeah I've been thru that for 2 years as I had a wagon (not Subaru) until I wrote it off in Febuary, since then I've owned Subaru Liberty (Same as Legacy what you guys call it)... Yeah hope it keeps that way and take it easy.. Keep it up mate, you deserve a pat on ya back! Cheers AP

On mine I have GT Legacy's Foggies and I use them everyday because I go thru 6 kilometres tunnel under the Yarra River and you have to have the lights on (to see the dash) otherwise you'll get zapped by speed cameras and I always forget to turn them off and in early morning i like to see reflectors on the road - its from my foggies. Cheers AP edit - Oh yeah, I drive approx 60,000kms a year (approx 38,000 miles) and the foggies blows twice a year.

wow.. its in top nick!! I bet it has been garaged for most of its life.. How many miles has it done? Take it easy mate, leave it standard and it looks awesome, you don't see many of these in that condition on the road espectially its age! Cheers AP

Most manual Subarus have a Hill Lock on them, once its applied, the heat transfer on the clutch plate due throw out bearing, engine's heat because in that area is very hot causing the clutch plate to stiffen. Thats my theory! Oh yeah, I've driven other Liberty same as mine and all clutches are different, mine is reasonable (not too heavy/light) and I am happy with mine. Cheers AP

Welcome! I'm from Australia myself and we have 2 great forums here but not snow related as its too warm here (yes we do have short snow seasons)... Anyway back to topic, I am wll aware about the seals, but in my experience get a new one (due reasons of wind noises etc)! I know its expensive but its better that way... if you don't want to, there are clips on the seals to hold the seal & plastic clips to the door. Take the clip off the door, put it back on the seal and use SuperGlue to re-attach. It'll do the trick. Cheers AP

Best way to minimise bearing wear. While you're tighting the belts, you should be able to twist the bolt halfway easily (not hard/too much force), if you can't that means its too tight, if you are able to twist it more than halfway its too loose. That what I do with my EJ22. Cheers AP NB - if it squeals in the cold startup but goes away during warm up is a sign of worn bearing.

Yeah sounds like it.. I did an compression test about one half months ago and it did show good figures (mechanic said the compression is all fine) but the cylinder nbr 2 has more black on the exhaust (I took the pipe off to inspect) others are well burn't. ONly shows a puff of smoke for a few seconds at the cold startup. Not hot startup. Does loose a bit of oil but its using more than average. Is it easy job to replace the seals yourself? I'm aware about taking the heads off and fix the valve seals etc. Cheers AP

On one of EJ22 engine (Liberty aka legacy) that I have here, how do I find out if I have worn/blown valve stem/seals? Its done 250,000 kms (approx 154000mi) Thanks AP

From what I know, nah not much mods (body) unless you're changing from automatic to manual then there will be mods at the shifter area.. if its manual FWD - 4WD then you have no worries. The bolt holes are already there ready to go to be installed with rear diff. Before going ahead.. check the fuel tank if there is a inverted hump in the middle then you have no problems fitting rear diff. If it doesn't then you have to change the fuel tank over from 4WD model. That goes for sedan and wagons. I think there is a FAQ on this somewhere. Cheers AP