3eyedwagon

^ Dear Accel, I'm available if you need a spokesman / PR guy. Sincerely, Will

No. They will gain you 10 Hp. Only by that they mean on a car moving ALOT more fuel than it was stock, and is in DESPERATE need of ANY more spark it can get. Basically, a well built small block Chevy moving 800cfm, or more, and retaining a very overworked stock ignition system, that desperately needs more spark to burn up all the raw fuel that ends up pooring out the tail pipe.... It's probably good for 10 horse pretty easy then! So, they don't really lie. They just are telling "the wrong truth"....

^ WTF? In your defense; what's a guy to do without AM Radio? Keep your KAPS on... eh Jeff?

I'm willing to bet, that in THIS situation, it is being done poorly, wasting fuel, brakes, and generally time.

That should take care of the fronts. Read it carefully, and you should be able to figure it out. The rears are the REALLY simple part. You just need 4 pieces of 1/4" X 2" flatbar. It doesn't have to be exactlt 1/2" X 2", but that is a good size. Anyways, you need 4 pieces measuring 4" in length. You need 5/8" holes drilled 1.5" from each end of the center of that 4" piece. Here's a rough sketch

^ 37s :-p

Wow, your friends had terrible luck, or a piece of crap charging system. With Optimas; they generally are on of those things that you get what you pay for. I've sold alot of batteries and both Optimas or NAPAs copy (the Orbital) have always been excellent. I have a few hanging around from 01, and earlier. The one in my S10 runs a 1200 watt stereo for hours on end without needing to start the truck. As far as all of your brand loyaltys: Batteries are like tires, and oil filters. There's really only a few manufacturers out there. So, there's a good chance that DieHard or Interstate rolled down the line next to one that was destined to get a Schucks sticker, and be sold for $15 less.

I think that banana may either be doing "The Macarena" or saluting Hitler. Maybe some strange combination of the two. Either way; agreed. That banana is both "funny", and "going nuts". It makes my banana feel so in-adequate

^ +10 It is, afterall, an EA82, and thusly, it deserves to be punished. When the motor gos, plop an EA81 in there, and then keep workin' the body.

^ He's referring to the cheaper unmarked base grade bolts that are most easily identifiable by being zinc plated and usually nothing else. I'm pretty sure Jeff understands the basic measurements of bolt hardness, and was using the zinc plating as a descriptor. The weaker bolts act as a "fusible link" of sorts. Solid idea, but, I'm a grade 5 guy. Mostly because we aren't dealing with heavy equipment, so grade 8s are a waste.

A 2" suspension lift would be a good start, and about as cheap as you are going to find. It'd be about $50 in materials (at the most) if you can manage the fabrication. It is not a difficult task, and the MANY threads here showing the installation / utilization of them shows how well they work. They don't eat axles like crazy, they handle pretty well on the road, and depending on how much you are willing to hammer on the fenders/body; you can run tires bigger than the engine/trans are capable of turning. I'd say the guys of NWWO have pretty well spoiled anyones claims that these lifts aren't reliable or strong. Just look at some of their threads. If you have your heart set on going bigger than a simple 2" suspension lift; you should know that you are looking at a much more complex task. You have around 18 total mounting points that need to have blocks between them. You need to consider things like lowering your diff, slightly more complicated strut towers front/rear, carrier bearing fab work, and all the other fun stuff that comes associated with detaching the body from its' crossmembers IE: brake lines, steering extension, coolant hoses, and other goofy little crap that always turns up. And NOBODY can give you an exact list of what you will need to do, or not do. They can only give you ideas, but, you will run into specific problems with YOUR car. The lifting of one of these doesn't take much time, it's the troubleshooting that takes awhile. Once again, if you can fabricate your own setup this shouldn't be an expensive task. I have a piece of 2"x6" rectangular tubing outside that is enough to lift 3 or 4 of these cars. It cost me $62. Figure in trussing pieces and bolts; you should be under $150 in materials pretty easy. Just like with everything else; it's all dependent on how you want to approach it.

You could at least try to be realistic.

tee hee jus wait, it's gonna blow up any second....

You pretty much totally misunderstood what I said, and then re-stated in different words. I've seen what they will break, in person, so you can skip the preaching. I've seen what others will break, in person, as well. It doesn't matter if it is a $1000 plus locker, a mini-spool, or a big nasty puddle of weld goober. They all make the same *SNAP* when the weakest link fails. Try an air locker in the front of your Yota without a Birfield eliminator kit, then get back to me about solid axle shafts not breaking. :-\ My point was: In the case of Subarus; you may as well make that snap as cheap as possible. Like I said; the juice on this one aint worth the squeeze.

What horror stories could there possibly be about welding Subaru diffs that would be any different than welding any other kind of differential. You are heating precision machined gears to about 3000* F and introducing new metals of different composition, and tensile strengths in a somewhat violent manner. Kinda like fishing with hand grenades. What could possibly go wrong? Seriously, it doesn't matter if it is a Chevrolet, Toyota, Range Rover, or Pagani. Welding a diff is welding a diff. Just do it, and live with it. The only difference is if you whipe out a Subaru diff; you are out about $25. This one's been talked to death. Another idea that just isn't worth the time or money for what the ultimate result will be.

The standard Windex formula includes ammonia. Ammonia + tinted windows = purple tinted windows, and a pissed off person They now make Windex without ammonia, but, I have yet to try it. That sucks that you are having problems with the Stoner Invisible Glass. I found it about 6 years ago now, and have loved it ever since. We used it at a detail shop I worked at, washed windows with it using newspaper, and it has always worked incredibly well for me. I'd stay away from the SprayAway. I've never found it to work very well or NEARLY as quickly as the Invisible Glass. Be prepared to go thrue alot more paper towels, and to have huge forarms. It will get a window clean, it just takes more applications, and more passes over it than the Invisible Glass. Check to see if it is tint safe as well. I've never checked. The only thing SprayAway really has going for it is that it is cheaper, and a good looking aerosol can. I've always been a fan of the "you get what you pay for motto".

I would hope you have no problem finding members.... I'd be mad if anything I own didn't make it 100,000.

^ It also matters if it's a drive on stlye lift. The frame grabber lifts need to be anchored, but, alot of drive ons can be free floating. Alot now even have wheel attachments to move them around, yet another bonus. I prefer a free floater as it can, with proper attachments, do both styles of lifting. A frame grabber style can't act like a drive on.

If you are looking to clear some bigger snow tires; do yourself up a 2 inch lift. It takes a little time, a little bit of steel, a little bit of skill, and very little money. Either way, whether you buy one, or make one; you are probably going to end up installing it yourself. So why not just make it too? Write ups can be found all over here on how to do it. You could even have a local fab shop cut up the pieces for you, and save yourself some cash.

That epoxy floor covering seems great, but, if you do any sort of metal fab; stay away from it. Or at least designate a clean part, and a work part of your shop. They epoxy takes a hard hit from sparks, and heat. I'm working on a Scotchman 6514tm Ironworker right now. Saving my pennies, and nickels, and quarters, and $100s. It'll be one heck of an addition to my ultimate shop once I get it though. Good luck with yours

It's a joke. You see, you can tell because it is all completely ludacris. A GL15 doesn't exist in any year, let alone 82.5. And I threw in some personal situation humor. I can understand if you don't get that because it's kinda between Jeff, and I. I was basically making the comment (to Jeff) that everybody wants something for nothing, and to find the easiest way possible to run way too big of a tire. You just happened to stumble in, and become part of the punch line. But seriously. I'm working on a Gen 1 Brat with 3.75" of lift. I'm hoping to run 37s, if I can find the right backspacing in a 4 x 140 17" rim......

Now that is just not very nice at all. Last time I was there a open diff ea82 Auto wagon did pretty decent, in the snow, while a lifted wagon with custom bumpers had a hell of a time, due to axle problems. You just gotta be snappy, cuz people whine if you go too slow. Oh, and there is a really nice couple of older masculine ladies with two amazingly well outfitted Rubicons that will snatch block you out of whatever predicament you may find yourself in. That was a couple of years ago though.

PS: You are going to want to bend the rears at a 45 degree angle. 15 aint enuff. You'll get a hole ****pot of bind out of the struts. No bueno.

^^^ Sweet. I'll be down shortly. Nice work on the Brat. I say we do a 2 incher, and throw a set of 35s on it! Better stay with 35s though. If you go with 36s you have to start cutting fenders...... :-\:grin::grin::grin::grin::grin::grin: to all else. HA!!!

There are about 3 of them in that color in my area that I keep a real close eye on to watch for a For Sale sign to suddenly pop up. If you found one in good enough condition; it'd be work swapping out an automatic or something undesireable for a D/R, imo. That, and the darker turqoise color are about the rarest, and my two favorite colors. Luckily, I also like the maroon. Not nearly as hard to find. Eh Jeff???