MilesFox

use a 3/16 drift punch . its the only way

this is not entirely true. for one, u-haul is the largest by volume retailer of hitch installation anywhere. second, the hitch inventory is comprised of the top manufactures such as valley, curt, cequent, thule, everything but reese. reese is bottom of the shelf wal-mart. third, hidden hitch is a brand name of draw-tite which is vendored by valley which is manufactured by thule. its all the same, just with a u-haul sticker. the hardware kits are supplied by fasten-all the drop menus on my computer include ferarri and lamborghini for the hitch matrix. fourth, a cobalt, volkswagon, and what have you all have their own hitch made for that specific vehicle. if there are any variations of the same platform the hardware kit will include the bolts for several applications for the same vehicle. something like a chevy truck or van my have up to 6 different hitches available for that platform according to the type of bumper, length of bed, weight class and receiver size. fifth, i bet the part number you have there is the same part number with u-haul sixth, i work there and install them all day long! now, if you dont trust the competency of the hitch pro at your local u-haul, that doesnt mean the part is no good and you cant put it on yourself. but have fun doing so without an inverted drill press, ramps, and a jack made for hitch installation. if you have any questions, want a quote or need a part number call me at work 608-221-4277. Right Equipment at the Lowest Cost, Guaranteed! oh yeah, and one more thing, at least you canadians get the turbo diesels for the 14 foot rental truck while we get gas models. and with my previous reply i was referring to ea series. i have installed hitches on the last 3 generations of subaru legacy. and the class of hitch available (class 1 up to 200 lbs, class 2 up to 35oo lbs, class 3 up to 5000 lbs) depends more on how it bolts up to the vehicle more so than the construction of the hitch or the power of the tow vehicle. u-haul will approve a tow dolly on a 3500 lb hitch so long as the vehicle in tow is no more than 3000 lbs on a 500 lb tow dolly. i could go on all day

the filter is on the driver side strut tower. you can use a pair of jaw pliers to gently grab the hose where it meets the filter and give it a twist to break its tension, and work it off back and forth. super easy!

it all bolts up the same parts you will need: transmisson with shifter, shifter boot console plate parts on the car that will fit the same: driveshaft, axles, tranny mount, clutc-flywheel-pressure plate really the only thing you will have to find that matches is a console that is the same color. the threaded end on the clutch cable may be different, if so use a lug nut as a spacer

make sure all the tires are the same size all the way around. torque bind will be caused by driving in 4wd on dry pavement, or a difference in tire size vs the front and rear axles both laterally or diagonally

big pistons equal tork. short crank equals rpms. think of it as a bicycle in a low gear wit strong legs pedalling its rump roast off, with ease

put power to the bvattery and turn off the 4wd button. the car may have to roll to disengage. but it must be in 4wd right now

if you find the governor is bad you can swap in anotherone from any 3spd auto trans wether it be 2wd or 4wd

take a look at the governor, the cup shaped thing on the passenger side of the transmission. take i t out an apart and clean it rather well. make sure the gear is not "apple cored" also, ther eare 2 dipsticks on the transmisson, one foe ATF !! or !!! and one on the top for the front diff, which takes your regular gl-5 gear oil. the governor threads into the diff and is centrifugal activated realtive to rolling speed of the front drivetrain there should be an article on the procedure, search usrm "governor shaft"

wobbly pulleys will squall bets. usually the water pump pulley gets floppy as its on its way out. if the squalling gets worse over time suspect the water pump

if the motor gets hot enough it will thin out the oil pressure. check the coolant cand see if it is low. perjhaps there may be a small leak or loss of coolant. more likely the original radiator is corroded or one of the fans are not working. if hte motor is hot enough it will cook the oil and burn it. so long as the overheat was not prolonged the motor should be ok. take a good look at the radiator and consider replacement. changne the oil. the water pump may also be corroded and is not circukating efficiently. the cooling system is the most critical on these cars. take care of the cooling system(and do the timing belts while you are at it) and the car will take care of you

oh man! now you make me want to go take my heads off and polish them more. mine would be 'lumpy' as you descrabe as they are. the oil idea is fantastic

if you take off the plastic piece between the doors there *should* be a connector for the speaker, you would take from there and just run thru a grommet to the speaker itself

+towdollys do good with subarus. there is no tongue weight, and a 2000 lb hitch will handle it. the soob is geared lo enough it takes off fine, cruise the top of 4th gear at 4000 rom on the hiway if necessary subars on the towdolly are fine for older soobs, anything part time or with open center diff. newer lsd centrers will bind up on the dolly! the sheering wheel should be LOCKED if the dolly has a swiveling deck. this way there is not too much articulation that will catch the fender on the car. i have towed subars with subarus thru chicago rush hour and across iowa, indiana, wisconsin, or ohio

85 and 86 trims will be glued on. 87 and later they will clip on and the doors will have holes in them

its not going to polish out mirror shiny, but it will be smooth to the tough. yours looks more polished down than my exhaust ports on mt spfi heads. looks good!

how much difference in height are the new springs. i spaced my front crossmember about 5/8" the front end feels tight but when i roll into a corner i can feel the sudpension go negative camber and take the steering wheel with it a little. really if the front was stiffer altogether i think it would corner better.

i'll bet your 2 and 4 spark plug wires are reversed. firing is 1-3-2-4 counterclockwise

i have seen hidden hitch brand on subaru. a lot of your manufacturers are going to be valley or thule which i believe are the same manufacture the hitch is available for the wagon as it replaced the tow hook mounts. on the wagon its flat where on the coupe/sedan the roll pan curves up and you would have to make an angle bracket to make this fit. the other style fits between the bumper on a wagon but the wagon bumper bolts on different than the sedan/coupe. both these styles are reciever hitches the hitch on my sedan was taken from an ea81 wagon and re configuresd tyong in with the bumper and the floor of the trunk. you could go to u-haul and ask too see the itch pro and eye up one of the class one hitches that bolt thru the floor of the trunk, and get creative with the mounting.

well now my car is all front-plowy it feels like too much negative camber when cornering, although the rear has no swaybar and i have half a front suspension floating around in the trunk i plugged the egr port with jb weld equivalent and swapped on the MAF from the 87 gl wagon. the one that was on there i believe was from a 92 loyale, as the component itself was shaped differently, but now my car seems a little more throttle responsive. i would like to put a swaybar in the back if anyone has any ideas beyond a stock ea82 rear sway. my camper has a rear swaybar across leaf springs with clamp on end link mounts. something like that

the pump will be the same. on the gl10 its a carb pump mouned just behind the back wheel on a triangular plate what dude said about too much pressure he mistook you for an ea82 with fuel injection(there were ea81 gl10's, yo!) although on the 82 the fuel pump may be on the driver side firewall. the connectors may be different but the pump itslef will work thanx for external fuel pumps!

use the sanding drums to finish out the surface. i assumed you used the stone cones. i use the cutting bit on aluminum and shape it up with stones, then finish up with the sanding drums. rpms on the dremel are going to be dictated by what bits you use. thge dremel brand bits should be rated with an rpm range

my rx did this oonece, i had to "jump start" the coil by jumping it to the b attery. of course i had to remove the wire to shut it down. but this was with a carb motor swapped in, but, i did have an aftermarket coil too. but this car had other gross electrical problems like the parking light circuit comng on with the brake pedal

so my sedan had bent suspensions due to the previous owner ditching it once, a tow truck who pulled it out of the mud by the tie rod, and from donuting into a curb from the first snow. I had just changed the rear trailing arm the day before the babe patrol car took a dump so now i am driving my sedan again. the steering was poor with its ill alignment. I had a crossmember from an 88 wagon to swap. the existing power steering lost fluid and one of the boots was torn on the bad tie rod. i unbolted the radius rod and parking brake cable mount from the passenger lower control arm. the control arm itself is being replaced. the original was bent and the nut for the ball joint was sheared off, and good ol' RUST was the only thing holdint it together! the axle was shot, the inner boot was gone with metal flakes glittered to the thick coating of molybendum all over the place. this axle has tolerated better than 10,000 miles in this condition. i then on the driver side took out the bolt for the lower control arm pivot and undid the swaybar link as if you were changing the axle using edrach's method:). this control arm was staying and i was too lazy to battle more rusty bolts on that side. having since undone the motor mounts and the exhaust i jack the car by the crossmember and place a jackstand under the tranny, so when i lower the jack the motor is propped up off the crossmember. then i undo the steering joint at the column end. after all this i undo the ps lines at the pump, and the 4 nuts and away she goes. it all came out rather quickly, in just over an hour since i walked out to the car to begin with. on the other crossmember i go to remove the lower control arm for the driver side so it looks like the one i just pulled. the pivot bolt was seized so oi had to cut the nut off and the head of the bolt to remove it. but this does not matter since i am using the hardware original to the car. this swaybar on the new crossmember is bigger being from a 4wd wagon as the one on my sedan was orifinally FWD and missing a bushing. i installed the new crossmember with washers stacked between it and the body of the car, to lift it off the frame by about a half inch. i stacked 6 washers for each bolt. this should allow for a little better than an inch lift on the strut tops without making the axles too inclied. the car feels taller now. so yay, i swapped this on all within the span of a few hours and drove my car to u-haul to take off the axle nut and swap in an outer cv for rear-driveyness! so now my car drives straight but the steering wheel is upside down! the car has absolutely no torque between 2000 rpms so i replaced the exhaust gaskets and 2 studs, and bought a flex-o-pipe to complete my cherry bomb setup to the tailpipe. but then i notice my JB weld plug was missing from the egr port on the head(carb heads) the intake is a stripped down spfi so i have check engine lights on all over the place but i think the o2 sensor is out. i am considering swapping on a straight pull-off intake from the 87 wagon to bring back egr and charcoal purge functions all in all it feels great to drive my car again after it has sat all winter with bent suspensions and flat tires. it still had a full tank of gas from when i let my roommate drive it and it took a dump right after he filled it. that is my story of the day, now that i have finally got around to working on cars again.

i have done stuff like that back in my day. dont go down railroad tracks, beware the pigz.