MilesFox

if your car is a TURBO 5spd then you can use the xt6 suspension. if yourcar is turbo automatic or any non turbo, the xt6 parts will fit if you use axles for a 1993 IMPREZA fwd 5spd wagon 1.8 liter but to use the xt6 parts up front you will have to swap in the xt lower control arm or use a tapered reamer to enlarge the ball joint hole impreza strut/knucle assembly will fit up front withthe same ball joint mod but you will lose the parking brake the xt6 swaybar is swappable the rear suspension for xt is swappable entirely. all you will need is the brake parts in rear, backing plate, hub, rotor, calipers. if you swap the whole trailing arms you can use the xt suspension any coilover suspensions will swap in, the rear just swap in the coilover struts, and in front use a strut/spring assembly as one piece for a swap. 4wd wagons will have the most lift. 2wd xts will be the lowest

.... or have them replace the one tire with one that isthe same size as the rest of them

pop out the ball joint and or the tie rod so you can turn the knuckle around(assumuing axle is out) anyway the part of the knuckle the strut goes into is hollow, you can tap the bottom of the strut with a hammer out from the underside of the knuckle collar that holds the strut

yo brian good job, damned if it werent for them damn motor mounts! you should be fine with stock timing and regular gas. as so with my car and its carb block, have no issues. with an intercooler you could get way with bumping up the timing or maybe playing with the boost. and if you get too scared use premium gas! but really, stock timing and boost are good to go. you should have more bottom end pull so you dont have to spool the turbo so much to get going, plus you can lug a lower rpm when cruising in town, and still pick up from there. my car does great at 2500 rpm cruise in 4th gear at 30-40 mph, 5th gear at 45 welcome to the carb block turbo club. enjoy!

tom is rught. i got a gl-10 turbo wagon with the otor in the way-back(trashwagon6). swapped in a carb ea82. youwill have to swap in a carb fuel pup and hotwire it to a toggle, or a relay tripped by the (+) coil terminal use the carb disty with the carb otor as it would be any other day. connect the wires fro the disty to the coil. the coil, ign and tachometer will all work the sa e, even digital dash my particular car went from otor in the trunk to carb to turbo(otor fro trunk till it crapped) then carb again with a swap of ea81 carter weber and ea82 hitachi. the car now had a coplete RX driveline, still a carb block, but this time as a turbo and with this application by leaving the original pfi circuits intact, just leave the dead plugs loose until you plug the back into another turbo motor i contemplate and would rather believe it is possible to use the MPFI distributor, since it will put a signal for the cpil to fire and to the fuel pump, you could wire the carb pup tho the FI pumps wires this way.(i have read of carb australian models with optical distributors)

push the bulbs up and down in thir sockets. or putsomedi-electric grease inthe sockets. 9 times out of 10 at u-haul(at work) a dead light can be fixed by merely wiggling and twisting the bulb

greetings from wisconsin? how far are you from milwaukee? you can swap in an ea82 and use the same intake and tranny. so much with this if you felt like it you can swap in the wiring harness for spfi and turbo also a 5spd tranny can be swapped in as well. a 5spd over the 4spd with the samme otor will be more beneficial than a different motor with the same tranny http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/subaru.htm

86 was theonly year spfi connectors are under the dash (and iac tube to the air box) anyway the white(or black connectors should be immediately there next to the green connectors

i agree with tomrhere and rguyver the design of the firing order, each bank fires at a time, with both pistons oneach side firing almost simultaneously basically a pulse from each alternating side. an open port motor will have a bloop bloop sound as it runs, but the pulse is very choppy yet, one side at a timme the firing order is what is going to produce the sound initially. the exhaust itself will determine the pitch and drone of the pulse. PERIOD:headbang:

all fenders fit the same. i have a gl-10 sedan fender on the rx 3door if you are using the rx fendes get both! as the rs fender has the holesandthe mounting for the air damm on my rx i had to make holesin the gl-10 fenders once the bumper is removed there are all your bolts. if they break off the junker no problem, but be careful on your car! expect to break one or a few, use pb spray and work the boltsback and forth, dont torque them too hard alsoopen the doors to get at the bolts on the rear half of the fender

i generally see 185/70 and 175/70 as stock sizes on older soobs,especially 4wd as far as the tire is concerned, it will fit on the rim no problem and be proper for the car. just be sure all of your tires are the same size!! a 185/70 will fit under the hood

take a good hard look at an spfi. on the spfi the iac valve connects to the intake boot. the passenger pcv connects to the boot as well the driver side goes to a fitting between it and the pcv valve, with a smaller fitting on tee to plug into the boot you aybe able to connect everythignusing a mix of mpfi and spfi fittings and hoses hopefully the diagram helpsifyou had to figure it out and invent routing

the cover near the fan switch would havebeenthefan switch for 85 and 86, and where the fan switch exists now wouldbe the wiper switch for 85 and 86

the motor is designed to coe out in one piece. you can leave the intake and turbo on the motor. aside fro the a/c, if the system was "purged" you can leave all that on themotor. otherwise, the ac/alternator assembly canbe dismounted as a unit and swung over the strut with the ac lines still intact lifting points for themotor are the hole inthe power steering bracket, and the pitch bar mount with the bolt. i use a chain with quick connecotors at these points. beware of clevis hooks on the power steering bracket, if the hookis too big and doesnt fit thru allthe way this part can break off. a u-haul trailer chain is perfect, a chain not too big like a log chain but not wimpy like a dog chain. to pull the motor out you will want to jack the tranny up enough that the motor ounts coe upandout of their holes on the engine frame the unbolt the exhaust pipe from the back of the turbo. this downpipe is mounted to the tranny, it is not necessary to remove it. the otor will pull away fro the bellhousing and the downpipe the same all in the same motion it is to your discretion toremove the down pipe once themotor isout for ease of installation(liningup clutch and stuff) but is not absolutely necessary here is a write-up with pictures of the turbo engine as the exammple http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/engineremoval.htm

depending on your driving environment, an ideal find would be like an 88 gl with dual range 4wd and spfi. if you dont mind working on the car, keeping up on things like the tiing belts will keep the car on the road for agreat any of miles! as far as learning about cars, subaru is a good car to learn with

is the tranny on a jack? take out the pitch bar if it has been installed already. you can jack the tranny enough for the studs to hover over their holes. you can twist and aneuver the otor about to line up lower the jack enough so the studs touch the frae with a little bit of weight. use a long screwdriver, crowbar, etc, you can walk thestuds around till they go in their holes, one at a time if this still proves to be difficult, loosen the motor mounts theselves from the motor, just enough that you can wiggle them. its easiest to get the front bolt from underneath and the back bolt from above behind the motor

check in the passenger side rear cargo holds. the wiring for the tank is therebehind a etal bracket my lo fuel lite didnt work till i found the yellow wire there was broken (mud and rust)

how is your otor blown up? head gaskets can be fixed. broken timing belts dont hurt anything the intake on the 87 will fit on an ea81 if you go that route

here is some common repair references, and a service anual to download http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/subaru.htm

i had to do this on the 78 toyota caper(blunt cruiser) usinf one of the hoses from the sink and a gatorade bottle, coupled into the fuel lines with the tip end of a u-haul pen one time in the 85 "pyostey-dook" wagon the fuel lines broke off at the pup so i tore the pump out and mounted it under the hood to a 1/2 gallon gas can dont let e tell you about gas cans now..

1/4"

i'll put it up too. this way no ones server in particular gets hit all at once. we should compile a list of these links in the usrm. http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/downloads.htm feel free to download the other files on this page and host the as well (please allow time for the upload and link update)

the hill holder is too tight. the cable adjusts at the clutch fork, its the lower nut that faces the back, you can turn it by hand dont let the mechanics replace everything before looking at this first

go to wikipedia.com and search "subaru legacy" there is an article about a speed endurance record