MilesFox

i used a motor that leaked, replaced the rank seal. a week later it leaked again, thee was a burr on the crank snout from a previous seal replacement. i had to file and sand the burr. its possible the shop may have gouged the crank i offset my seal so it would seal up slightly farther out on the crank, as there was a definate groove from the last seal. i drove the seal about 1mm short of where it was and all is fine

i agree with the steering column idea. makes easier to access the pedal assembly and the throttle cable

the older 3at thru 86 and the turbo 3 at have a 3.7 final drive, whereas the 87 and up no n turbo at has a 3.9 the 92 loyale i just traded got 325 miles out of the same tank of gas, with just under 1/8th to spare, average 60 mph i find average speed and driving habit plays a lot in fuel economy. with the price of gas i keep my speed around 62 mph average for long distance driving my best fuel economy was 473 miles ona full tank, past full to the filler neck to running out of gas. columbus ohio to the last oasis north of chicago the same car towed my rx from fort wayne indiana to milwaukee wisconsin on the same tank of gas

you can just swap in an entire ea82 however it comes, just add wiring harness and ecu

where's my day old pizza?

86 fwd gl-10 came as spfi

sounds like an axle nut or spline failure. that is why it quit going in FWD mode

YES YOU CAN! my buddy has a 93 FWD 5spd impreza, 23 splines. we discovered 23 splines when legacy axles didnt fit( too big, 25 spline) i guess the tranny mount is different but this makes an easy ej swap

if you can pop th eball joint, take out the knuckle with the axle and strut as an assembly, do this to both cars. now, put the 4wd struts on the parts cars knuckles and put the whole thing in together like it came out. pop the tie rod, the ball joint, 3 nuts and a brake line, axle pin and thats it remove the axle pin first when you take it apart. make sure the axle lines up with the pin before installing the ball joint to make sure it fits the pin fits only one way. use a 3/16" or 6mm drift punch to remove it, and also to slip through the hole before installing the pin to make sure of the alignment undoing the brake line from the caliper is easier then swapping from the body end. the caliper end will fith through the little eyelet on the strut.

interesting stuff see if you can post a question about sharing subaru parts manufacturers on the probe forums and see what you come up with

any 80-84 gl, dl, hatch, brat(except 80), wagon 2wd or 4wd or stick or auto or turbo its all the same as far as they fit anything 85 and up wont fit, except for the hatchback and brat thru 89 and 87 respectively turbo axles will be the fattest

if you find an ea82 motor that will fit, spfi or carb, your existing carb will work, or the ea82 carb will fit all the fuel lines and some of the wiring in your car you can use the carb and intake on an spfi single port ea82 motor, as spfi or mpfi non turbo have 9.5 compression. ea82 carb has 9.0, ea81 has 8.5 if you find a whole car for parts you can swap in the 5spd dual range along woth an ea82. this would be the easiest upgrades as far as it all bolts on with pretty much no fabrication other than the carrier bearing mount

if pushbuttoning doesnt work, run the spade terminal from a wire and touch it on the battery post. if you hear a click but the starter doesnt turn, check the continuity between the starter and the battery post across the battery cable itself had a problem that baffled me turned out to be the battery cable was broken inside the insulation

hjow did you hook up thge pushbutton? ypu will want your wire to come from +12v to the switch, and then from the switch to the starter from what i read you connected a wire from the starter to the switch to ground? you can use the fuse panel for 12v+ from the accessory and run pos, so the starter works only with the key on

both of these cars are 3spd autos. this is a rare model are they mpfi or carbureted. you found yourself a good score the 4wd tranny will bolt on exactly the same, same torque converter, bolt pattern and mounts, shifter. you will want the button and handle from the 4wd handle and may have to make a wire for the switch the entire rear suspension will have to be swapped out, as the main portion of the assembly has the differential mount. other than that, the trailing arms(hubs) and diff will have to be swapped over, along with axles you will have to swap the gas tank as well becuse it has an indentation for the rear diff once you get the rear end in the driveshaft will go between

i personally would go with the ea82 myself. since you have the parts source and plan to so spfi swap might as well have the motor and all plug and play to it. spfi on ea82 requires disty mods and the ea81 carburetor, if not going with the spfi, will bolt onto the ea82 motor(the intake assembly) the ea82 gets more revs than ea81, the ea82 trasmission is geared appropriately for it. the only modification to make with the ea82 motor is to move the hill holder back a litt,e, and install the motor first, then the distributor so you can clear the master cylinder relocate the coil to the other side, use ea82 battery cables to relocate the battery to the othe side, if you wish. but you will have to remove the jack mount make a carrier bearing mount and the ea82 driveshft will be the right length for the tranny and the car going into

Glossary of Terms http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/glossary.htm

all ea82 timing belts are the same between aspiration, see if you can find gates brand or subaru oem. anybelt will do, really, so long as anyone has them in stock! i would go to napa for them here is the timing belt article http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingbelt.htm

also from this the injector will not pules, and the fuel pump will not come on

look in the subaru section http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/

yo i am planning a trop back to indiana and ohio by the first week of september, to run after my parts. since i will be around i can come and fix the timing belt, have the part already and i will come down, and maybe go to columbus too i should be around for a few days, the timing belts will take within 2-3 hours

look up iluvdirt as he wired up the mechanism for a pushbutton 5spd using 2 toggle switches, for lack of a dp/dt switch

how did you deduce the heads are cracked? let me guess, non turbo, popped a head gasket. took off the heads and behold, the infamous crack between the valves. those cracks are normal, heads are likely good cracked heads in the true sense would be cracks in the exhaust port, engine runs fine but loses coolant out the exhaust get a set of head gaskets and be good to go

put an ea82 in it, bolts on the same. its a wagon, the hatch back is 2-door

an ej18, with fwd 5spd, has the same clutch disc and AXLE SPLINE as our ea82/82 fwe 5spd trannies. easy conversion for the FWD crowd